Bula,
Repairs have commenced in earnest on Torrid.
Sing- Lee is just a great guy and he is teaching his son a trade which will always be in demand here in Savusavu.
George has been a wonderful help and just does not seem to ever complain about anything.
Once repairs are near completion I plan to sail back to Taveniu as my first diving/beach going destination in Fiji.
"Curly" is the local ambassador for all us "Yachties" and is certainly the "Go to guy" get things done.
My mainsail is now off and should be shipped to Suva soon. I'm anxiously awaiting the results of my jib repair. We'll see!!!!
Tomorrow George may get to climb the mast, with a bosun's chair of course, to re rig the mainsail halyard.
Today as I was walking into town I noticed that the rain was falling so warm and soft that I felt absolutely no need to protect myself. It was like walking in a fine, warm, inviting mist. Soon the rain stopped and with the relatively high humidity I was quickly dry.
New boats arrive daily. Fun at the Savusavu Yacht Club commences atr 1700 hrs daily with "Happy hour". Good thing I don't drink anymore as the "Hour" tends to stretch well past 2200 hrs.
Cap'n Mal
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Saturday, May 30, 2009
May 30, 2009
Bula!
Fiji is just great! One-fourth the cost of Tahiti and English is the national language.
Repairs have begun on Torrid. The transmission is probably going to be OK, the jib is being repaired as I write and the main sail may have to go to Suva.
Fiji is past the International date Line so it is already tomorrow here.
I've had a little difficulty loading pictures. The problem has been with me, not the internet.
I'll probably meet a welder tomorrow. George spotted a part which needs attention and if it fails while underway it would create just a merry old mess.
I plan to be in Fiji for as long as possible, possibly up to 6 months.
I hope to explore past Savusavu in the next few days and find some nice dive spots.
More updates and pictures later.
Cap'n Mal
Fiji is just great! One-fourth the cost of Tahiti and English is the national language.
Repairs have begun on Torrid. The transmission is probably going to be OK, the jib is being repaired as I write and the main sail may have to go to Suva.
Fiji is past the International date Line so it is already tomorrow here.
I've had a little difficulty loading pictures. The problem has been with me, not the internet.
I'll probably meet a welder tomorrow. George spotted a part which needs attention and if it fails while underway it would create just a merry old mess.
I plan to be in Fiji for as long as possible, possibly up to 6 months.
I hope to explore past Savusavu in the next few days and find some nice dive spots.
More updates and pictures later.
Cap'n Mal
Friday, May 29, 2009
Bula.
This is the greeting one uses in Fiji.
I departed Hawaii on 4/28/09 ( my birthday) and arrived in Savusavu, Fiji on 5/29.
En route I stopped at Wallis island which is a French territory.
I'll try to add my log to Fiji as well as my personal memoirs of the trip.
I'll be adding photos as time allows.
Captain Mal
TORRID LOG TO FIJI
28 April 2009 2200
21 13 N, 157 53 W
Off Waikiki. Departed Kaneohe Bay, good wind until Hawaii Kai where winds are light.
All systems working fine. Only on jib until tomorrow.
29nApril 2009 1500
20 43 N 158 26 W
South of Oahu. Raised main.
Very little wind all morning, motor 3 hrs.
Wind generator spinning slowly. Annoying for the $ spend having it rebuilt.
30 April 2009 1530
19 06 N, 159 42 W
Changed course this am, making good progress South. Winds very good @ 10-20 last night and most of the day. Seem to be slowing now. Wind vane unhooked, electric auto pilot doing great. Many items tumbled while heeled over. No damage. Why do bad things always happen on day 3? Will try to radio Hawaii @ 1800.
01 May 2009 1600
16 31 N, 160 01 W
Great wind and sailing conditions. Radio call perfect next call Tuesday. Nothing remarkable happened, henceforth NRH, one of the log entries I like.
02mMay 2009 1700
13 46 N 160 51 W
Strong winds last night and most of today. Good speed 7-10 knots. Started to slacken, but noticed a squall to the East which will bring more wind. Days becoming more routine. Solid foods becoming more appealing. NRH.
03 May 2009 1900
11 16 N 162 38 W
No squall last night, another looks menacing now. Water tanks will have to be replaced in Fiji but not a problem now. Squall closing in. Pod of 30-50 dolphin showed up at 1700, stayed and played for over an hour. Wish I knew the species. Probably Pacific bottlenose. 782 miles to the Equator. Will pass by Palmyra Island but have no plans to stop. No facilities and rumors of an unwelcoming caretaker.
04 May 2009 1700
08 56 N 163 47 W
VERRY WINDY DAY! Great speed . A few dolphins in the am, otherwise NRH. 628 miles from equator. 154 miles-since yesterday. Will need new water tanks installed in Fiji.
05 May 2009 1200
06 50 N 164 47 W
Still strong winds, very good speed. Rough night last night but no problems. Radio call planned today @ 1800 hrs. Palmyra is to the East. Many birds. 12-14# Mahi-mahi this am. Expecting diminishing winds soon. 489 miles to the Equator.
06 May 2009 1200
04 23N 166 06 W
Pleasant night with good wind. Awoke @0700 to strong winds and torrential rain. 325 miles to equator= 164 miles made, pretty good. Jib has started to chafe on staysail stay, will need mending in Savusavu. Mahi was VERY good, George actually started eating. Wind generator is probably shorted out, need to check fuse.
07 May 2009 1430
02 45 N 166 37 W
Nice night. Awoke to very diminished winds. Decided to run engine. EXCITEMENT!!! Main sheet on boom broke at 0800 leaving the boom to swing free. Had to lower main and jury rig a connection from the traveler to the boom. Finally jury-rigged a system which seems to be working. Thank goodness it happened in light winds. More for the repair list. Jib developed a fray rubbing against the staysail wire, more to repair list. George a great help in fixing the problem. Heat becoming VERY uncomfortable for sleeping at night. I am near the Equator after all.
08 May 2009 1800
01 02 N 167 52 W
On engine all night. Some fresh wind until 1500 and back on engine. Very quiet day. NRH, thank goodness. 106 mi to Equator, then into the Southern Ocean. Will have to put fuel from jugs into onboard tank. Engine very cool and reliable.
09 May 2009 1200
00 09 N 169 00 W
Somehow about 5 gallons of fuel overflowed into starboard bilge. What fun cleaning up that mess. Yet another maintenance/repair issue to be resolved in port. “Stuff” happens. Nice breeze this am so back on sails. Fuel into port tank this pm.
10 May 2009 1200
01 18 S 170 24 W -------YES! I meant South!!!
Quiet night with freshening winds. Awoke to very enjoyable 12-18 knot winds on the port beam. Fine speed and fair seas. Pulled in fishing lure only to discover a tuna jaw still on the hook and the lure skirts badly shredded. Must have been a popular attraction with the fish after all. Prepared delicious hamburgers last night. Sorry Jimmy, these were HAMBURGERS in Paradise. 5 gallons in port tank, no leaks. Had an albatross land on the solar panel and rested there for over twelve hours. He was no longer welcome after he pooped on George in the middle of the night. “No good deed goes unpunished”.
11 May 2009 1330
02 58 S 171 56 W
LAND HO!!! Spotted Canton (sometimes Kanton) island this morning. No reply on VHF Ch. 16.
Beautiful night of sailing last night. Motor sailing ,carefully, thru the Phoenix islands.
Repair necessary to boom/mast pin, washer seems to have fallen off. Fortunately, the weather is calm although very hot. More to be added to the repair list.
12 May 2009 1200
04 30 S 172 45 W
Calm easy night . Took time to let Torrid rest a little. Slept on deck under the stars. The Milky Way was stunning. Mostly motor sailing in am with little wind.
SPOT locator seems to be working properly now but cannot confirm without radio contact. Will try to make radio contact this evening. NRH-so far today!
13 May 2009
05 51 S 173 38 W 1100
Beautiful night with a VERRRRRRRRY starry sky. Spotted 2 satellites! Turned off the motor last night and had a very peaceful night at a steady 4 knots. Awoke to steadily freshening winds. Checked water tanks and found that they MUST be replaced. A pod of about 20-30 dolphins showed up and I got some good film with George at the bow.
14 May 2009 1000
07 34 S 174 51 W
“It was a dark and stormy night.” Strong winds from the NE started at 0200. Numerous squalls. Barometer now rising. Making good speed with much discomfort. Better than sweltering like a painted ship upon a painted ocean.
15 May 2009 0845
08 49 S 175 34 W
Yesterday was a duel between the squalls with strong winds and fast runs followed by long periods of no wind and confused seas. Took in jib and drifted with what little wind there was until about 0400. Awakened then to find a lightning storm bearing down on us. Some fun running away from the storm as it had good wind.
Now on a good run right on course. The day is overcast with occasional squalls and good wind. Heading very good for Fiji.
16 May 2009 1030
10 37 S 176 15 W
Nice night w/ good winds and seas. Good heading. NRH.
17 May 2009 0855
11 47 S 176 31 W
Dead calm! On and off engine. Fuel capacity becoming a concern. May stop @Wallis island for fuel, provisions and rest. Winds will help decide the question for me.
Addendum 1400.Wallis looks more and more likely. Progress very slow today. Fixed stanchion, put away staysail and moved its stay so my jib won’t get so beat up. Had a merry old time trying to fix the boom/mast connection. George was a great help. It is true: Murphy NEVER sleeps!
18 May 2009
12 56 S 176 26 W
LAND HO! Wallis island spotted around 1100. Making great progress with good wind and pleasant seas. Caught a barracuda around 0900. Cooked it right away. VERRRRY tasty.
Wind shifted last night around 0200 and changed to a starboard tack.
Hope to enter Wallis lagoon this pm.
ADDENDUM 2030 hrs
Will stand off Wallis tonight as we could not reach the pass before nightfall. Too dangerous entering a strange pass, at night, surrounded by hungry coral heads. Discretion is the better part of foolishness.
19 MAY 2009 Mata Utu, Wallis island
Arrived at Mata Utu, Wallis (aka Uvea) island @ 1400 hrs. Entry to passe Hokiuku was easy with onshore breeze and no current. The lagoon reminds me of Kaneohe Bay only much larger with several pleasant islets nearby. Checked in w/ the Gendarmirie with absolutely no problem. Great guys.
NOTHING is happening @ Mata Utu. Will seek another port tomorrow where we can find a more productive port.
20 May 2009Mata Utu, Wallis island
Obtained 10 gal diesel. Put motor on dinghy and it worked very well. Watched Wallasians play cricket ALL DAY LONG. Met with Yves who drove us about and we had a great time. Very friendly French man from Morocco. Had delicious coffee with Yves and got invited to the restaurant to catch up on the internet. The owner Stephan is set up for wireless. Talked until 2230 with Stephan and his employees Seru, Mac and Lex-all Fijians-all great guys. Will clear customs tomorrow, buy 20 gal more diesel, fill water bottles and go see the bottomless lake tomorrow. Plan to depart Wallis the following day for an anticipated 3 day run to Fiji.
22 May 2009 Mata Utu, Wallis Island 1730 hrs
Excitement early am as the anchor had dragged a little. Raised anchor and reset with more rode, Seems fine now, but the wind has really started to howl out of the southeast. Matu Utu is a terrible anchorage and I’d never plan to return. Two other anchorages are available and are undoubtedly better but George and I have linked up with Seru, Mac and Lex who drove us to a petrol station then showed us a lake which had been formed by what must have been a titanic volcanic eruption. The lake is said to be bottomless and apparently was used by the US Military as a dump site for unused ordinance following World War 2. Checked in and out of customs (aka Douane) with ease. Obtained 10 gallons more of diesel and 5 of gasoline.
Remaining on board tonight as the high winds make even the short transit to the pier very dangerous. Hopefully it will calm enough overnight to allow us to depart safely. If the wind is still high I’ll probably move to another anchorage anyway.
23 May 2009 13 31 S 176 25 W 1345
Departed Wallis island after a very uncomfortable night anchored off Mata Utu. Had planned to spend one more night at another anchorage, but the wind was very strong and favorable for leaving Wallis. Practically FLEW across the lagoon and out the channel. Very relieved to be in deep water again. Plan to pass by Futuna island tomorrow. This will be the first “high” island we will see. The anchorage at Futuna is said to be poor so I’ll give it a pass. Expect to be in Fiji in 3-4 days. Looking forward to a calm anchorage, hot shower, cold soda, and a nice dinner . Only flying the jib today as the wind was 20-25 leaving Wallis.
24 May 2009 14 58 S 177 43 W 1500 hrs
154 miles on jib alone! Deployed a reefed main at 1400 hrs. Very strong winds last night with rough seas and TORRENTIAL RAINS!!!! Another very long night with little rest. Winds and seas calmer this afternoon so I put up the main. Getting close to Fijian waters, expect to be in Savusavu in 2 days. Everything is soaked, looking forward to drying out and cleaning everything up, including myself.
25 May 2009 15 00 S 178 41 W 1345 hrs
BLASTED by a storm which hit us unawares @ 0400. Wind went from a peaceful 10-12 knots to AT LEAST 50 knots in a heartbeat. Heeled over almost to a knockdown. Jib sunbrella shredded, Main tore a large rip near the aft reef point, running lights damaged/destroyed by flailing jib sheets. Ran with the storm and 25’+ seas for several hours. Two waves splashed some water in the cockpit, but Torrid held on like the champ she is. The Auto helm was a lifesaver. Winds now “down” to 20 knots so we are limping along on my brave little jib. Actually making pretty good progress. WHAT EXCITEMENT!!!!
26 May 2009 16 44 S 179 06 W 0900 hrs
Entered Fijian waters early am sailing past Nagelelevu atoll. Spotted a ship, probably a container vessel apparently inbound to Savusavu. Radar worked great. George wanted to fish so I let him, telling him that early morning was a very good time as the fish usually do not feed at night and are quite hungry as soon as the sun comes up. The lure wasn’t in the water but ten minutes before it caught a fish. This time I let George catch it on his own. I also gave him the “honor” of killing and cleaning it, both new experiences for him. On jib alone and making great progress. Starting to clean up the boat after the blasting we took the other night. What a mess below decks. Hope to reach Savusavu this evening. If not, then tomorrow am.
ADDENDUM 1845 hrs.
Nearly to Tavenui, 35 miles. Savusavu tomorrow am I hope. Great day of leisurely sailing until we were slammed by another squall. Saw this one coming and had time to bring the jib in. I don’t want my little jib to take any more beatings. Motors sailing until the wind picks up.
27 May 2009 17 02 S 179 54 W 1700 hrs
The engine stopped running about 2200 hrs last night. It looks as though the transmission fluid was empty. Naturally, the ONE thing I didn’t bring was, you guessed it, automatic transmission fluid. Dead calm all night and most of the day today. A slight breeze picked up and we were able to coax Torrid to begin moving again. Now sailing just past southern tip of Tavenui island. I hope to make Savusavu tomorrow. May have to test my sailing skills by sailing into the harbor without benefit of an engine. Perhaps I can get someone to bring ATF out to me. In either event, it will be interesting.
George, as usual, was wonderfully helpful in managing several repairs and jury rigging of matters until we get to Savusavu.
28 May 2009 16 49 S 179 29 W 1030 hrs
Nearing Savusavu harbor. Sailed from Tavenui to Savusavu last night. Due to no engine, darkness, unfamiliarity with the harbor and still not being able to contact the harbor master I was forced to stand off and sail back towards Tavenui. Choppy seas and gusty winds made for an uncomfortable evening. Hope to make port this pm.
ADDENDUM 2200 hrs
Arrived safely by sailing into the magnificent Savusavu Bay. Was met by a chase boat and safely escorted the final five hundred yards to a mooring ball.
The town reminds me of Lahaina, Maui and appears very much llike Lahaina must have been in the 1800’s at the height of the whaling days.
The Fijians and all very friendly and soft-spoken. Delightful people. The other “Yachties” are equally friendly and helpful.
But above it all I am pleased to say: We made it!
TORRID DAYS, TORRID NIGHTS
A personal memoir
27 April 2009, Kaneohe Bay Hawaii
Apprehension, excitement, trepidation and resignation are but a few of the feelings which have been racing in my mind. The start of my lifelong quest is about to begin. I am fearful but not afraid. I would much rather try and fail than fail to try.
I am leaving Hawaii, my home for 49 of my 62 years with very mixed emotions. My sad memories far outweigh my good ones in Hawaii. I’ve had a few great joys in Hawaii. I’ve had the saddest memories a man should endure- here in Hawaii. I have no ties or obligations remaining in Hawaii. I have no reason to deny myself the opportunity to follow my dream.
28 April 2009, off Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii
It has begun! Today I slipped the surly bonds of Hawaii and set sail to Fiji. I left nearly on schedule and after a fueling stop proceeded out of the shallow waters of Kaneohe Bay, rounded Diamond Head and am now South of Oahu and on course for the South Pacific.
Farewells were said. A pod of humpback whales were even seen breaching and seemingly wave “Goodbye” as they rolled on their sides and flapped their great pectoral fins skyward Some promises were made by me, to myself, let’s see if they’re kept.
The wind is very light but I only have the jib up. Tomorrow I shall raise the main and increase our speed ---I hope.
George seems to be a fine young man with a wealth of worldly knowledge. He is enjoyable to speak with.
Ps. Happy (63rd ) Birthday to me!
29 April 2009, South of Oahu
Very little wind in am, motor for 3 hrs. Wind finally picked up at 1400 and resuming good progress. Raised main and all is well except wind generator spinning poorly. Need to batten down
, think we are in for a blow. Saw a Navy ship and helicopter. Nothing else remarkable--so far.
30 April 2009, headed South
Day 3. When bad things happen. Not so bad, however. Wind vane came un clipped and is easily repaired---in calm water. Fortunately the electric auto-pilot is doing a perfect job.
If this type of adventure were easy anyone could do it. Apparently it takes a special kind of nut case to do what I am doing. Adventure, without cost is meaningless. Creature comforts are nice and I will greatly enjoy a soft bed, a hot shower and ----never mind!
With the boat heeled over in good wind and moderate seas all of the things that were going to tumble about probably have. I need to learn better storage methods. Books are everywhere. It can all be taken care of. Hope to call Hawaii on the Single Sideband Radio this evening @ 1800.
01 May 2009
Day4. Radio call went thru fine, Thank you John Brack. Next call Tuesday. I had poor rest last night as I dreamed I was back with a lady whom I could never please. I realized that she is a part of my past which I must forget. I’ve resolved not to dream of her again. Have a good life little Jo, I did try to have a life with you. Wind and direction great! 34 years ago I was sworn in as a lawyer, thought I finally had it made. God, was I wrong!
02 May 2009
Day 5. Strong winds all night and day. Short entry today as it looks like a squall is headed our way. Otherwise course and speed are good. If this were easy anybody could do it. Right? Anybody as crazy as I. Wish me luck tonight, I think it is really going to blow!!!!
03 May 2009 1900
As the miles spin behind, I feel more as though my old life is ebbing away as a new one approaches. Sadness is ebbing, regrets fading from my memory. I’m FINALLY looking forward. I realize that my life was much like good ‘ol Charlie Brown: I had learned to dread one day at a time!
Eagerly awaiting the new day now. Hope it keeps up.
Nice visit by a pod of 30-50 dolphins-stayed and played for over an hour. George was stoked!
04 May 2009 1700
Short visit by dolphins in am. Thoughts of slipping the bonds of mediocrity and no longer living the life of quiet desperation. Beginning to REALLY BELIEVE this dream will come true. A lot of time and hard work, but doesn’t that make it worth while?
05 May 2009 1200
This morning I took a life. It was a female Mahi-mahi, aka Dorado or Dolphin- not a porpoise , thank you. I remembered how the American Indian would apologize to an animal they killed out of a need for food. I understand some of the poetry in that. We didn’t NEED the fish, but I’m darn sure going to eat it. No more fishing for a while. George took some great photos and video to be added to the Blog later, like when the Ocean stops its frantic rocking and rolling. Expect calmer winds and seas soon. The winds have been constant at 15-22 knots. Travel is fast, but very uncomfortable. Prices are to be paid for most pleasures. At least the cost of fuel on a sailboat is good. Gone now for a week. Sometimes I wonder what has happened in the World. Most times I just don’t care!
06 May 2009 1200
Jimmy Buffet is right: Changes in Latitudes, changes in attitudes, nothing remains quite the same. Memories of my past life diminish, however not a day goes by than I do not lament the loss of my son Craig to a cruelly premature death, not to mention my two other children to the lesser angels of their nature. Perhaps one day they will understand how much dear old Dad did for them as they were growing up and they will set aside their ideas of being wronged, whether real or imaginary or even conveniently contrived.
07 May 2009 1445
Ernest Hemmingway once described manly behavior as the ability to maintain grace under pressure. This morning when the Mainsail sheet broke off the boom allowing the Main to run free was indeed a healthy administration of pressure. After a bit of hard work the system was jury-rigged and seems to be holding well.
Goals easily attained are meaningless. Only through struggle and adversity can we truly appreciate our accomplishments. Hell, if this were easy the whole ocean would be full of shallow water sailors. I don’t think a rich person with a new million dollar boat would ever experience the feeling I had after taking care of today’s problem du jour.
As I near the Southern ocean and view the Southern cross nightly I am grateful for this adventure. I would rather try and fail than fail to try. Today has been a trying day.
08 May 2009.
A quiet day with no problems and good conversations w/ George. All systems nominal. Will have to put fuel into onboard tanks. Will give some indication of usage so far. With engine on I can have fan on for sleeping down below. I should be envious of my fellow sailors who have air conditioning and ice makers, but I’m not. Some discomfort makes the rest of the creature comforts much more appreciated. No contact via Radio last night although I had good reception on channel 12A. Either a misunderstanding about time or my friend in Hawaii wasn’t available. May try marine operator soon.
Should reach the Equator tomorrow. You can have the heat!!!! I’m beginning how the weather on planet Earth is driven by the Sun and the Oceans. The sea water here is almost hot. All that energy has to go someplace, hence our winds, waves, currents and storms. Beautiful full Moon, Milky Way seemingly within grasp. Southern Cross becoming a familiar friend.
09 May 2009
Equator 20 miles ahead. This will be a good milestone.
“Pride goeth before a fall”. Much wisdom in that saying. After putting 15 gallons of fuel into the starboard tank I discovered that about 4 gallons had somehow overflowed into the bilge. It was a filthy mess to clean but it did lead to an evening salt water bath. The water felt marvelous.
Today there is a fair and favorable breeze.
Last night I saw both Polaris (the North Star) and the Southern cross ( the bottom star of the Cross points South). I felt as though the Stars I had spent my life under were slowly releasing their grip on me and the new stars of the Southern Hemisphere were slowly welcoming me as you would cautiously allow a stranger deeper access into your home as he developed your trust.
Full moon and empty arms last night. Wondering if the old gang at the dance venue missed me or even cared about where I was. That Friday night routine, although fun, had about run its course with me. There will be new places to dance as the days and nights go by.
ADDENDUM 2200 hrs
The Southern Ocean has welcomed me with THE most beautiful full moonrise I’ve ever seen. The color is best described with my limited vocabulary is able as a cross between orange e and red, perhaps umber, perhaps amber, to be certain, breathtaking.
Later, as I gazed upon the Southern Cross, I experienced a profound sense of “Home”. As I turned, by force of habit, to look again upon the Big Dipper and Polaris I physically arrested my search and stopped searching, perhaps for the last time, for a star of my past. My past was behind me and I cared no longer to relive it.
Later, as I breathed deeply the delicious air of the Southern Ocean I experienced a profound feeling that I was breathing my first unburdened breath of air since I was fourteen years old. I no longer felt that I had ANY obligation to any other person or entity in the World. I was starting to live in the NOW. No longer did I have a duty, or sense thereof, to a spouse, children, profession or anything or anyone else in the Universe. I was starting to live the remainder of my life for myself, by myself and only to serve my wishes, needs and dreams.
10 May 2009
Fresh and favorable winds greeted me in the am. Took on a hitchhiker yesterday in the form of an albatross which took a ride on the solar panel. He would probably still be with us but after he pooped on George in the middle of the night he was sent packing. No good deed goes unpunished. Optimistic about our passage to Fiji taking less than the planned 25 days. Must be careful about my optimism and plans. Such frivolity is a sure way to make God laugh.
11 May 2009
LAND HO!!!!!!!!!! Passed West of Canton island this am.
Beautiful night but negligible winds this morning. Back to motors sailing until winds freshen.
The FUBAR God has been friendly so far. George discovered that a retaining washer and cotter key which holds the mainsail to the boom/mast connection has failed. We are in the process of making another repair, i.e., jury-rig repair. Oh well, just another repair to be done in Fiji.
12 May 2009
Last night the stars put on their spectacular show--- for free. I again felt humbled by my insignificance in the universe.
Golly, its not all about ME after all!
I feel sorry for the millions of people who spend their entire lives without ever having spent one night observing the stars on a cloudless night, away from air pollution, away from ambient light of the towns and cities where they live. Perhaps if they did so they would reassess their own significance in the Cosmos.
As I write these observations I realize that not very many years from now I will be dead and gone. My brief sojourn in this life will be unnoted and unremarkable. The stars, the stars shall remain. They have always been. They will always be. I don’t care what you believe about how the stars came to be. Whether by accident of nature or divine creation is irrelevant. Take time. Make an effort. Enjoy a communal night with the stars. You will never forget nor regret such an experience. The stars will appreciate the audience.
13 May 2009
If reincarnation is real and I have a choice, my decision is simple; I would come back as a dolphin. A pod of 20-30 showed up this morning and were fascinating as usual. You’d think I’d become tired or at lease blasé about watching them. Fortunately, even I haven’t become that jaundiced. We could learn much from these gentle creatures. They seem to live to raise and protect their family, eat only what they need, make war on no other species….and still take time to play. They require no money, television, internet nor any of the creature comforts we “superior” humans cannot seem to live without.
ADDENDUM 2000 hrs.
I awoke before dawn. The stars softly greeted me. Venus was as lovely as any Goddess ever described by Man.
The Eastern sky lightened almost imperceptibly as the Sun returned on its faithful course. Slowly, slowly the stars surrendered their dominion of the sky. Lastly, Venus too, rested behind the brilliance of the dawn.
The day gave blessings of fair winds and following seas. Dolphins joined me for a while and taught me something new about the importance of play as well as the unimportance of the acquisition of material goods.
As evening drew near the Sun again began its retreat to the Western horizon. In so doing the colors of the sunset began their everlasting enchantment. No poet could ever describe the colors. No painter, even the Impressionists, could ever capture the soft pinks, corals, blues, pastels nor the gentle fading and surrendering of the clouds towering tops, First white, then coral, then pink then, ever so slowly, and without sadness, to shades of grey.
The clouds had shed their colors yes, but the stars began to reassert their presence and again softly beckon for attention.
Watching this display eventually wrenched a tear, then another, then many form my too often closed heart. I then realized that I had just experienced one of the most joyous moments of my life. Selfishly, I realized that as I continue to pursue this dream I have awaited so long, that I may actually be blessed with more days and nights of such simple, beautiful, peaceful times. If no other day or night in my future matches this one I will still be grateful for the bountiful beauty of such a perfect, perfect day.
Going topside again, I was greeted by a now old and dear friend; the Southern Cross. I eased the sails and adjusted the course to a more gentle use of the wind and seas. I was no longer in a rush. I had fully come to love the Sea and this life a fervently as I had any woman, any child or any other person in my life. I was rich beyond any measure I that had ever attained in my fifty years of working in the World of Man. Maybe this will sound silly to the reader; it does not to me. I felt reborn! I have a new life. Whatever time remains left for me on this, my mortal coil, allows me to believe that after such a long struggle, no matter what happens, that I can die happy with my spirit at rest. Should I depart this world tonight, it will all have been worth the effort.
May 14 2009 1000
As though jealous of my praises of the stars and the sun, the clouds and winds have seemingly conspired to deprive me of both and in so doing demonstrated that they too have a place in the Universe. I was awakened to strong winds, intermittent rain squalls and confused seas at 0200. At 0900 I was finally able to leave the helm and tend to other matters, such as these notes. Perhaps compromise is in order with the elements of nature. Perhaps it is all just chance and circumstance. Perhaps nature has taught me to not praise one element so highly over another. Perhaps.
15 May 2009 0900
Early entry today as it appears the day will be blustery with good winds but occasional squalls.
Not to be forgotten, lightning decided to put in an appearance at 0400. The wind had been calm and the seas flat until then. Excitement soon began as the winds increased, the waves increased and, of course, the rain increased. What fun!
It seems as of now that nature’s forces have stopped trying to outdo on another for my attention and respect and we have favorable winds, seas, heading and speed.
OK!, OK!, OK! Nature. I’m impressed with ALL of your powers. Can’t we all just get along? (With thanks and credit to Rodney Smith)
16 May 2009 1030
Looks like we are all starting to get along, nature and me. Beautiful starry night with favorable winds and seas. Good breeze this am with hopes for a freshening wind. George has turned out to be a great crew member. He is quick to learn, remembers what he was taught and never raises a word of complaint.
17 May 2009 0900
Nature is getting along too well! We entered a dead calm area about 0200. I may stop at Wallis island for fuel, supplies and rest. “The best laid plans of mine or mice oft must go astray”
Fuel consumption/ capacity becoming an issue. Another lesson learned----the hard way. Oh, well, those are the lessons you usually remember. Usually.
Addendum 1400 hrs. Took advantage of very calm water to make a few repairs. The boom/mast connection problem tested my physical and mental faculties to the utmost, not to mention my sailor’s colorful language.
As usual, George was a great help and together we accomplished what I thought was going to be an impossible repair.
Thinking strongly of pulling in to Wallis island, a French territory 200 miles north of Fiji. It will give us the chance to reprovision, take on water and fuel, visit and island not frequented by tourists, reacquire contact with the outside world via the internet and GET SOME REST!!!!!!!!!!
18 May 2009
Land Ho!!!! Wallis island spotted about 1100. Caught a 15# barracuda around 0800. Cooked it up right away to avoid spoilage. Tasted great. Hope to enter Wallis lagoon this pm and find a safe anchorage.
Wallis is seldom visited by tourists and is said to be one of the few remaining mostly genuine Polynesian islands. The population is said to be descendants of Tongans and are best known for their skills in making tapa cloth. Probably more entries later but must attend to the approach to Wallis as well as the lagoon entry.
ADDENDUM 2030 hrs
Standing off Wallis island tonight as the pass would not be entered until after dark. Being totally unfamiliar with the channel and approach, I decided to give Murphy a rest. Happiness is becoming a daily visitor.
19 May 2009 1800 hrs.
What a night, what a day. Stood off Wallis last night then entered the lagoon about 1200. It is VERRRRRY interesting to enter a new channel. It also helps that the French have their buoy colors opposite to that of the USA. Fortunately, I can also read depth fairly well by the color of the water. Naturally it poured down rain as I was halfway thru the channel thereby erasing most of the color differences between shallow water and deep. Maybe Murphy slept last night, but he got up early today.
Checked in with the Gens d’arme even got my first entry stamp.
Looks like I’ll visit here only long enough to reprovision and refuel. Did I mention the there is NO INTERNET SERVICE in Mata Utu.
A group of boys were cute as they played a cross between cricket and baseball using a tree limb as a bat and four or five different balls raging from a golf ball to a large whiffle ball. The kids seemed to be having as much fun as any American kids I’ve seen with insanely expensive baseball gear.
Wallis is NOT Waikiki. Thank goodness!!!!
I paddled the dinghy ashore because I was sure the police would stop processing applications at 1600. As I paddled back to TORRID I counted 746 strokes with the paddle. Next time Gillin, put the engine on!
Lots of black tip sharks in the lagoon. George going ashore @ 1800.
Extremely tired, but a good tired.
20 May 2009 2345 hrs.
Slept like a baby! Much needed rest. Awoke to church bells at 0600 followed by blaring trumpets which sounded the start of an all day Cricket game. The game was interesting to watch because the players had VERY little in the way of equipment; hand carved bats about twice the size of an American baseball bat, a hardwood ball which weighed 3 kilos (6.6 pounds!!!!!) and two sticks pounded upright in the dirt to mark the bases----I think.
After watching the game for several hours, yes I said hours I realized that both teams were having just plain fun. They did not laugh at their opponents when they made a mistake nor did they raise their voices at their teammates when they made a misplay. A good hit or a good fielding move was met by a smattering of polite applause. Each inning, if that is what they are called, was followed by a ritual change of bats and apparently an homage to the King. The players would kneel facing the King’s palace and chants were made followed by the blaring of numerous horns and whistles. The umpires/referees were clad in gaily colored ribbons, tinsel, leis, some kind of hand woven cloth about the waist as well as a t-shirt and a lava-lava ( a cloth worn like a woman’s long skirt.
George and I had a great time talking with Stephan, the owner of a restaurant together with three of his Fijian employees.
I am altogether favorably impressed by the people of Wallis island. They have not been corrupted by tourism and seem to be peaceful and content in their lives. Every vehicle passes by with the occupants waving to the visitors. Harsh words or actions have not been observed. This may not be Paradise, but just try to tell that to the people of Wallis Island.
22 May 2009 Mata Utu, Wallis island, 1745 hrs.
Murphy awoke me to a sense that something was amiss. The wind had picked up a great deal and the anchor was dragging. Fortunately I had turned off the Chart plotter last night so the little darlin’ could get some rest. Oh yeah, in so doing I also turned off the ANCHOR DRAG ALARM. I hope it got a good rest because it is going to be a long time before it gets turned off again. Oh, well, another lesson learned courtesy of the ubiquitous, omnipresent Mr. Murphy.
The guys we met at Wallis were just great. What good and generous hearts they have. Their genuine friendliness as well as that of all the residents of Wallis I met was humbling. What a good lesson in getting along with your fellow man.
23 May 2009 13 31 S 176 26 W 1350 hrs
“On the road again, just couldn’t wait to get on the road again.” Left Wallis on the fly. Grew tired of the terrible anchorage at Mata Utu, Wallis island. A lesson learned about fuel awareness. Expect to be in Fiji in 3-4 days. Look forward to a safe anchorage and creature comforts, especially a hot shower, a warm meal, a cold drink (non-alcoholic) and a flush toilet. Sailing teaches you to REALLY appreciate the simple things in life. Sailing for weeks at a time is also an excellent way to lose weight. Three more weeks of this and I won’t be able to recognize myself, especially since I’ve grown my beard again.
24 May 2009 14 58 S 177 43 W 1500 hrs.
“Be careful what you wish for, it just might come true.” Last night was a regular gull washer. TORRENTIAL RAINS!!!, high winds, rough seas………what great fun! I might have had 6 hours of fitful sleep in the past 48. On the up side, Torrid is running well and I should be in a comfortable anchorage in 2 days. Many repairs and much cleanup to do once I’m safely stopped. Last night I thought of all those poor people flying to Fiji in 757’s. Dozing in their airline seats, fat and sleepy after drinks and dinner they had absolutely NO idea what fun they were missing out on. Poor bastards!
This morning I thought of those same tourists as they arrived in Fiji only to find that it was pouring down rain. They couldn’t go out to the beach so they had to content themselves with the challenging decision of whether to have a Mimosa or Bloody Mary with their breakfast. They probably were forced to go shopping for their “guilt gifts” for the kids and family back home. Poor bustards!
25 May 2009 15 00 S 178 41 W 1330 hrs
Yes, I’m lucky, lucky to be alive! At 0400 we were suddenly struck by the leading edge of a weather change that nearly dumped us on our side! I could only glimpse the wind gauge which was at 46 knots and we were heeled over so badly that we were in real danger. A hole was torn in the main sail, the jib was shredded on the trailing edge, the running lights were probably torn off. “If not for the courage for her crew the Minnow would’ve been lost.”
George was fantastic in lowering the Main, furling the jib and untangling many lines. I was busy keeping the boat into the wind.
We ran downwind on the engine from 0400 until 1200 today . “Riding out a storm” has a new appreciation to me. We are now limping along on what remains of my noble little jib, heading just south of west.
Those poor tourists on Fiji probably had to put up with another windy, rainy day. Lucky bastards!
26 May 2009 16 17 S 179 05 W 0920 hrs.
I’m beginning to think we are going to make it! Entered Fijian waters around 0300 and are making good progress thru the Nunuku Passage. George caught, killed and cleaned a 15# Yellowfin tuna within minutes of putting the lure in the water. He had never killed yet alone cleaned an animal in his life. Now, if he will only eat it! I showed him the way a real man eats Sashimi i.e., right off the still quivering bone. I thought he was going to hurl. What fun.
Oh, yes, the tourists will have a perfect day today in Fiji.
ADDENDUM 1830 hrs.
Tavenui beckons 35 miles away! Almost there. Must check in at Savusavu first. Will need repairs and rest but it REALLY LOOKS LIKE WE ARE GOING TO MAKE IT!!!!
Got slammed by a squall this pm however we saw this one coming. Boy, talk about instantaneous wind changes, torrential rains and just all kinds of fun.
Treated George to sashimi made from the fish he caught this am( raw fish dipped in soy sauce with wasabi). He really liked it. In Hawaiian pidgin English we say: “Broke da mout” when something tastes particularly good.
No wind early pm so we are motor sailing to the tip of Tavenui.
27 May 2009 17 02 S 179 54 W 1600 hrs
I awoke from the most wonderful nap of my life. I had been exhausted, nearly beaten, humbled by the experiences of the previous night and earlier day.
Tavenui, like a beautiful, willing goddess, yet reluctant to surrender her favors too easily, had, at last, allowed me to approach and view her closely.
The previous night had found me becalmed yet within view of Tavenui’s gracious outline. She lay just to the East bedecked in a crown of wispy clouds. Her valleys remained impenetrable in misty rain and azure shadows as if to say: “You may look, but you have to earn the privilege to approach and perhaps to touch.
She cannot be cajoled out of her favors by force or cunning. My engine had promptly stopped running at 2200 hours. Seems my transmission had run low on fluid and decided to take a rest. Naturally, the ONE thing I did not have aboard Torrid was automatic transmission fluid. Murphy had struck again.
Another long night was spent topside. Since the engine had stopped the wind had decided to do the same. Dead calm befell Torrid, a scant six miles from Tavenui.
The following day was also composed of water so still and flat that a water skier would’ve been in heaven. Tavenui watched from afar as George and I made do with the conditions we were dealt and managed to make several repairs.
Tavenui sent out one of her guards in the form of a huge Mahi-mahi to leisurely cruise past our craft and probe our intentions. No military uniform can ever match the stunning colors of the noble Mahi-mahi. A forty pound plus bull cruised slowly past our starboard quarter. In crystal clear waters he reconnoitered our position and behavior fathoming our intentions.
To see such a creature in nature is a rare treat indeed. I made me somewhat sad that they are the very best tasting fish in the Ocean.
Finishing our chores, I noticed the briefest wisp of wind on the water. Deploying our now tattered sails, I coaxed movement out of Torrid an began moving away from Tavenui to use the wind most effectively.
As if sensing our possible departure, Tavenui allowed the winds to change ever so slightly so as to allow us to begin another tentative approach. After setting the sails and the auto-pilot I surrendered to the call of
Morpheus and slept the sleep of the just.
As I slowly awoke to the music track to OUT OF AFRICA I ever so slowly began physical movement again. The nap had been so deliciously refreshing that I did not want it to ever end. However, I longed to see if Tavenui had allowed us a closer view. Stretching catlike from my slumber I slowly opened my eyes to a wonder few have ever seen. Tavenui is, beyond doubt, one of the most beautiful places on earth. When viewed from the ramparts of her domain, the Pacific Ocean, one can appreciate that this is indeed one of the most perfect places on our planet.
Sailing near the South-east end of Tavenui a signal was sent by the island, perhaps as a beacon to direct my return. The signal was a blow hole. These are created when a lava tube which opens yards distant from the shore also opens beneath the waves on its seaward side. As waves cast themselves ashore some are channeled into the lava tube, past the shoreline and eventually erupting, geyser-like inland thereby forming a white signal inviting a return visit.
Rounding Tavenui’s southernmost tip I began the run to Savusavu vowing, if she will allow me, to return to her shores and like a new, mysterious and adoring lover, explore her in detail.
28 May 2009 Savusavu Harbor, Fiji
We made it! Bruised, battered, bent and bedraggled, but not beaten. We arrived in Savusavu Bay around 1500 hours and sailed to the little town. The anchorage is a quaint delight, It is out of time with the rest of the World and nobody seems to care. Life is slow, meaningful and quiet. Conversations take time, yet time is almost meaningless.
George is a great trooper and fine sailor. He has a positive mental attitude which is not learned in any cutesy, thousand dollar a pop seminar. He truly lives in the “Now”. I hope I’ve learned something from him.
Repairs on Torrid commence tomorrow. I’ve met “Curly” who is the “Go to guy” for getting boat repairs done in Fiji. Sent quick notices via very slow e-mail to several people.
I’m tired. Mind and body are spent, in a good way. I can now have the luxury of nursing my aches and pains.
Oh, yes. Remember the barracuda we caught? It seems it got the last laugh on us. Apparently, it was contaminated with the Ciguatera nerve toxin common in certain predatory fish. George had felt sick and weak. I, a person who normally has the constitution of a sewer rat, had also been affected with a persistent and annoying rash.
Despite our numerous difficulties, they were VASTLY outweighed by the overall experience.
Say whatever you will but you will never be able to take this experience from me. Although it is just the first step in my long- planned and oft dreamed of voyage around the World, the three thousand mile “shakedown cruise” was an experience I cannot possibly but treasure and never forget. I can only hope that the reader of these ramblings takes and enjoys at least a small fraction of the joys I felt since April 28, 2009.
This is the greeting one uses in Fiji.
I departed Hawaii on 4/28/09 ( my birthday) and arrived in Savusavu, Fiji on 5/29.
En route I stopped at Wallis island which is a French territory.
I'll try to add my log to Fiji as well as my personal memoirs of the trip.
I'll be adding photos as time allows.
Captain Mal
TORRID LOG TO FIJI
28 April 2009 2200
21 13 N, 157 53 W
Off Waikiki. Departed Kaneohe Bay, good wind until Hawaii Kai where winds are light.
All systems working fine. Only on jib until tomorrow.
29nApril 2009 1500
20 43 N 158 26 W
South of Oahu. Raised main.
Very little wind all morning, motor 3 hrs.
Wind generator spinning slowly. Annoying for the $ spend having it rebuilt.
30 April 2009 1530
19 06 N, 159 42 W
Changed course this am, making good progress South. Winds very good @ 10-20 last night and most of the day. Seem to be slowing now. Wind vane unhooked, electric auto pilot doing great. Many items tumbled while heeled over. No damage. Why do bad things always happen on day 3? Will try to radio Hawaii @ 1800.
01 May 2009 1600
16 31 N, 160 01 W
Great wind and sailing conditions. Radio call perfect next call Tuesday. Nothing remarkable happened, henceforth NRH, one of the log entries I like.
02mMay 2009 1700
13 46 N 160 51 W
Strong winds last night and most of today. Good speed 7-10 knots. Started to slacken, but noticed a squall to the East which will bring more wind. Days becoming more routine. Solid foods becoming more appealing. NRH.
03 May 2009 1900
11 16 N 162 38 W
No squall last night, another looks menacing now. Water tanks will have to be replaced in Fiji but not a problem now. Squall closing in. Pod of 30-50 dolphin showed up at 1700, stayed and played for over an hour. Wish I knew the species. Probably Pacific bottlenose. 782 miles to the Equator. Will pass by Palmyra Island but have no plans to stop. No facilities and rumors of an unwelcoming caretaker.
04 May 2009 1700
08 56 N 163 47 W
VERRY WINDY DAY! Great speed . A few dolphins in the am, otherwise NRH. 628 miles from equator. 154 miles-since yesterday. Will need new water tanks installed in Fiji.
05 May 2009 1200
06 50 N 164 47 W
Still strong winds, very good speed. Rough night last night but no problems. Radio call planned today @ 1800 hrs. Palmyra is to the East. Many birds. 12-14# Mahi-mahi this am. Expecting diminishing winds soon. 489 miles to the Equator.
06 May 2009 1200
04 23N 166 06 W
Pleasant night with good wind. Awoke @0700 to strong winds and torrential rain. 325 miles to equator= 164 miles made, pretty good. Jib has started to chafe on staysail stay, will need mending in Savusavu. Mahi was VERY good, George actually started eating. Wind generator is probably shorted out, need to check fuse.
07 May 2009 1430
02 45 N 166 37 W
Nice night. Awoke to very diminished winds. Decided to run engine. EXCITEMENT!!! Main sheet on boom broke at 0800 leaving the boom to swing free. Had to lower main and jury rig a connection from the traveler to the boom. Finally jury-rigged a system which seems to be working. Thank goodness it happened in light winds. More for the repair list. Jib developed a fray rubbing against the staysail wire, more to repair list. George a great help in fixing the problem. Heat becoming VERY uncomfortable for sleeping at night. I am near the Equator after all.
08 May 2009 1800
01 02 N 167 52 W
On engine all night. Some fresh wind until 1500 and back on engine. Very quiet day. NRH, thank goodness. 106 mi to Equator, then into the Southern Ocean. Will have to put fuel from jugs into onboard tank. Engine very cool and reliable.
09 May 2009 1200
00 09 N 169 00 W
Somehow about 5 gallons of fuel overflowed into starboard bilge. What fun cleaning up that mess. Yet another maintenance/repair issue to be resolved in port. “Stuff” happens. Nice breeze this am so back on sails. Fuel into port tank this pm.
10 May 2009 1200
01 18 S 170 24 W -------YES! I meant South!!!
Quiet night with freshening winds. Awoke to very enjoyable 12-18 knot winds on the port beam. Fine speed and fair seas. Pulled in fishing lure only to discover a tuna jaw still on the hook and the lure skirts badly shredded. Must have been a popular attraction with the fish after all. Prepared delicious hamburgers last night. Sorry Jimmy, these were HAMBURGERS in Paradise. 5 gallons in port tank, no leaks. Had an albatross land on the solar panel and rested there for over twelve hours. He was no longer welcome after he pooped on George in the middle of the night. “No good deed goes unpunished”.
11 May 2009 1330
02 58 S 171 56 W
LAND HO!!! Spotted Canton (sometimes Kanton) island this morning. No reply on VHF Ch. 16.
Beautiful night of sailing last night. Motor sailing ,carefully, thru the Phoenix islands.
Repair necessary to boom/mast pin, washer seems to have fallen off. Fortunately, the weather is calm although very hot. More to be added to the repair list.
12 May 2009 1200
04 30 S 172 45 W
Calm easy night . Took time to let Torrid rest a little. Slept on deck under the stars. The Milky Way was stunning. Mostly motor sailing in am with little wind.
SPOT locator seems to be working properly now but cannot confirm without radio contact. Will try to make radio contact this evening. NRH-so far today!
13 May 2009
05 51 S 173 38 W 1100
Beautiful night with a VERRRRRRRRY starry sky. Spotted 2 satellites! Turned off the motor last night and had a very peaceful night at a steady 4 knots. Awoke to steadily freshening winds. Checked water tanks and found that they MUST be replaced. A pod of about 20-30 dolphins showed up and I got some good film with George at the bow.
14 May 2009 1000
07 34 S 174 51 W
“It was a dark and stormy night.” Strong winds from the NE started at 0200. Numerous squalls. Barometer now rising. Making good speed with much discomfort. Better than sweltering like a painted ship upon a painted ocean.
15 May 2009 0845
08 49 S 175 34 W
Yesterday was a duel between the squalls with strong winds and fast runs followed by long periods of no wind and confused seas. Took in jib and drifted with what little wind there was until about 0400. Awakened then to find a lightning storm bearing down on us. Some fun running away from the storm as it had good wind.
Now on a good run right on course. The day is overcast with occasional squalls and good wind. Heading very good for Fiji.
16 May 2009 1030
10 37 S 176 15 W
Nice night w/ good winds and seas. Good heading. NRH.
17 May 2009 0855
11 47 S 176 31 W
Dead calm! On and off engine. Fuel capacity becoming a concern. May stop @Wallis island for fuel, provisions and rest. Winds will help decide the question for me.
Addendum 1400.Wallis looks more and more likely. Progress very slow today. Fixed stanchion, put away staysail and moved its stay so my jib won’t get so beat up. Had a merry old time trying to fix the boom/mast connection. George was a great help. It is true: Murphy NEVER sleeps!
18 May 2009
12 56 S 176 26 W
LAND HO! Wallis island spotted around 1100. Making great progress with good wind and pleasant seas. Caught a barracuda around 0900. Cooked it right away. VERRRRY tasty.
Wind shifted last night around 0200 and changed to a starboard tack.
Hope to enter Wallis lagoon this pm.
ADDENDUM 2030 hrs
Will stand off Wallis tonight as we could not reach the pass before nightfall. Too dangerous entering a strange pass, at night, surrounded by hungry coral heads. Discretion is the better part of foolishness.
19 MAY 2009 Mata Utu, Wallis island
Arrived at Mata Utu, Wallis (aka Uvea) island @ 1400 hrs. Entry to passe Hokiuku was easy with onshore breeze and no current. The lagoon reminds me of Kaneohe Bay only much larger with several pleasant islets nearby. Checked in w/ the Gendarmirie with absolutely no problem. Great guys.
NOTHING is happening @ Mata Utu. Will seek another port tomorrow where we can find a more productive port.
20 May 2009Mata Utu, Wallis island
Obtained 10 gal diesel. Put motor on dinghy and it worked very well. Watched Wallasians play cricket ALL DAY LONG. Met with Yves who drove us about and we had a great time. Very friendly French man from Morocco. Had delicious coffee with Yves and got invited to the restaurant to catch up on the internet. The owner Stephan is set up for wireless. Talked until 2230 with Stephan and his employees Seru, Mac and Lex-all Fijians-all great guys. Will clear customs tomorrow, buy 20 gal more diesel, fill water bottles and go see the bottomless lake tomorrow. Plan to depart Wallis the following day for an anticipated 3 day run to Fiji.
22 May 2009 Mata Utu, Wallis Island 1730 hrs
Excitement early am as the anchor had dragged a little. Raised anchor and reset with more rode, Seems fine now, but the wind has really started to howl out of the southeast. Matu Utu is a terrible anchorage and I’d never plan to return. Two other anchorages are available and are undoubtedly better but George and I have linked up with Seru, Mac and Lex who drove us to a petrol station then showed us a lake which had been formed by what must have been a titanic volcanic eruption. The lake is said to be bottomless and apparently was used by the US Military as a dump site for unused ordinance following World War 2. Checked in and out of customs (aka Douane) with ease. Obtained 10 gallons more of diesel and 5 of gasoline.
Remaining on board tonight as the high winds make even the short transit to the pier very dangerous. Hopefully it will calm enough overnight to allow us to depart safely. If the wind is still high I’ll probably move to another anchorage anyway.
23 May 2009 13 31 S 176 25 W 1345
Departed Wallis island after a very uncomfortable night anchored off Mata Utu. Had planned to spend one more night at another anchorage, but the wind was very strong and favorable for leaving Wallis. Practically FLEW across the lagoon and out the channel. Very relieved to be in deep water again. Plan to pass by Futuna island tomorrow. This will be the first “high” island we will see. The anchorage at Futuna is said to be poor so I’ll give it a pass. Expect to be in Fiji in 3-4 days. Looking forward to a calm anchorage, hot shower, cold soda, and a nice dinner . Only flying the jib today as the wind was 20-25 leaving Wallis.
24 May 2009 14 58 S 177 43 W 1500 hrs
154 miles on jib alone! Deployed a reefed main at 1400 hrs. Very strong winds last night with rough seas and TORRENTIAL RAINS!!!! Another very long night with little rest. Winds and seas calmer this afternoon so I put up the main. Getting close to Fijian waters, expect to be in Savusavu in 2 days. Everything is soaked, looking forward to drying out and cleaning everything up, including myself.
25 May 2009 15 00 S 178 41 W 1345 hrs
BLASTED by a storm which hit us unawares @ 0400. Wind went from a peaceful 10-12 knots to AT LEAST 50 knots in a heartbeat. Heeled over almost to a knockdown. Jib sunbrella shredded, Main tore a large rip near the aft reef point, running lights damaged/destroyed by flailing jib sheets. Ran with the storm and 25’+ seas for several hours. Two waves splashed some water in the cockpit, but Torrid held on like the champ she is. The Auto helm was a lifesaver. Winds now “down” to 20 knots so we are limping along on my brave little jib. Actually making pretty good progress. WHAT EXCITEMENT!!!!
26 May 2009 16 44 S 179 06 W 0900 hrs
Entered Fijian waters early am sailing past Nagelelevu atoll. Spotted a ship, probably a container vessel apparently inbound to Savusavu. Radar worked great. George wanted to fish so I let him, telling him that early morning was a very good time as the fish usually do not feed at night and are quite hungry as soon as the sun comes up. The lure wasn’t in the water but ten minutes before it caught a fish. This time I let George catch it on his own. I also gave him the “honor” of killing and cleaning it, both new experiences for him. On jib alone and making great progress. Starting to clean up the boat after the blasting we took the other night. What a mess below decks. Hope to reach Savusavu this evening. If not, then tomorrow am.
ADDENDUM 1845 hrs.
Nearly to Tavenui, 35 miles. Savusavu tomorrow am I hope. Great day of leisurely sailing until we were slammed by another squall. Saw this one coming and had time to bring the jib in. I don’t want my little jib to take any more beatings. Motors sailing until the wind picks up.
27 May 2009 17 02 S 179 54 W 1700 hrs
The engine stopped running about 2200 hrs last night. It looks as though the transmission fluid was empty. Naturally, the ONE thing I didn’t bring was, you guessed it, automatic transmission fluid. Dead calm all night and most of the day today. A slight breeze picked up and we were able to coax Torrid to begin moving again. Now sailing just past southern tip of Tavenui island. I hope to make Savusavu tomorrow. May have to test my sailing skills by sailing into the harbor without benefit of an engine. Perhaps I can get someone to bring ATF out to me. In either event, it will be interesting.
George, as usual, was wonderfully helpful in managing several repairs and jury rigging of matters until we get to Savusavu.
28 May 2009 16 49 S 179 29 W 1030 hrs
Nearing Savusavu harbor. Sailed from Tavenui to Savusavu last night. Due to no engine, darkness, unfamiliarity with the harbor and still not being able to contact the harbor master I was forced to stand off and sail back towards Tavenui. Choppy seas and gusty winds made for an uncomfortable evening. Hope to make port this pm.
ADDENDUM 2200 hrs
Arrived safely by sailing into the magnificent Savusavu Bay. Was met by a chase boat and safely escorted the final five hundred yards to a mooring ball.
The town reminds me of Lahaina, Maui and appears very much llike Lahaina must have been in the 1800’s at the height of the whaling days.
The Fijians and all very friendly and soft-spoken. Delightful people. The other “Yachties” are equally friendly and helpful.
But above it all I am pleased to say: We made it!
TORRID DAYS, TORRID NIGHTS
A personal memoir
27 April 2009, Kaneohe Bay Hawaii
Apprehension, excitement, trepidation and resignation are but a few of the feelings which have been racing in my mind. The start of my lifelong quest is about to begin. I am fearful but not afraid. I would much rather try and fail than fail to try.
I am leaving Hawaii, my home for 49 of my 62 years with very mixed emotions. My sad memories far outweigh my good ones in Hawaii. I’ve had a few great joys in Hawaii. I’ve had the saddest memories a man should endure- here in Hawaii. I have no ties or obligations remaining in Hawaii. I have no reason to deny myself the opportunity to follow my dream.
28 April 2009, off Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii
It has begun! Today I slipped the surly bonds of Hawaii and set sail to Fiji. I left nearly on schedule and after a fueling stop proceeded out of the shallow waters of Kaneohe Bay, rounded Diamond Head and am now South of Oahu and on course for the South Pacific.
Farewells were said. A pod of humpback whales were even seen breaching and seemingly wave “Goodbye” as they rolled on their sides and flapped their great pectoral fins skyward Some promises were made by me, to myself, let’s see if they’re kept.
The wind is very light but I only have the jib up. Tomorrow I shall raise the main and increase our speed ---I hope.
George seems to be a fine young man with a wealth of worldly knowledge. He is enjoyable to speak with.
Ps. Happy (63rd ) Birthday to me!
29 April 2009, South of Oahu
Very little wind in am, motor for 3 hrs. Wind finally picked up at 1400 and resuming good progress. Raised main and all is well except wind generator spinning poorly. Need to batten down
, think we are in for a blow. Saw a Navy ship and helicopter. Nothing else remarkable--so far.
30 April 2009, headed South
Day 3. When bad things happen. Not so bad, however. Wind vane came un clipped and is easily repaired---in calm water. Fortunately the electric auto-pilot is doing a perfect job.
If this type of adventure were easy anyone could do it. Apparently it takes a special kind of nut case to do what I am doing. Adventure, without cost is meaningless. Creature comforts are nice and I will greatly enjoy a soft bed, a hot shower and ----never mind!
With the boat heeled over in good wind and moderate seas all of the things that were going to tumble about probably have. I need to learn better storage methods. Books are everywhere. It can all be taken care of. Hope to call Hawaii on the Single Sideband Radio this evening @ 1800.
01 May 2009
Day4. Radio call went thru fine, Thank you John Brack. Next call Tuesday. I had poor rest last night as I dreamed I was back with a lady whom I could never please. I realized that she is a part of my past which I must forget. I’ve resolved not to dream of her again. Have a good life little Jo, I did try to have a life with you. Wind and direction great! 34 years ago I was sworn in as a lawyer, thought I finally had it made. God, was I wrong!
02 May 2009
Day 5. Strong winds all night and day. Short entry today as it looks like a squall is headed our way. Otherwise course and speed are good. If this were easy anybody could do it. Right? Anybody as crazy as I. Wish me luck tonight, I think it is really going to blow!!!!
03 May 2009 1900
As the miles spin behind, I feel more as though my old life is ebbing away as a new one approaches. Sadness is ebbing, regrets fading from my memory. I’m FINALLY looking forward. I realize that my life was much like good ‘ol Charlie Brown: I had learned to dread one day at a time!
Eagerly awaiting the new day now. Hope it keeps up.
Nice visit by a pod of 30-50 dolphins-stayed and played for over an hour. George was stoked!
04 May 2009 1700
Short visit by dolphins in am. Thoughts of slipping the bonds of mediocrity and no longer living the life of quiet desperation. Beginning to REALLY BELIEVE this dream will come true. A lot of time and hard work, but doesn’t that make it worth while?
05 May 2009 1200
This morning I took a life. It was a female Mahi-mahi, aka Dorado or Dolphin- not a porpoise , thank you. I remembered how the American Indian would apologize to an animal they killed out of a need for food. I understand some of the poetry in that. We didn’t NEED the fish, but I’m darn sure going to eat it. No more fishing for a while. George took some great photos and video to be added to the Blog later, like when the Ocean stops its frantic rocking and rolling. Expect calmer winds and seas soon. The winds have been constant at 15-22 knots. Travel is fast, but very uncomfortable. Prices are to be paid for most pleasures. At least the cost of fuel on a sailboat is good. Gone now for a week. Sometimes I wonder what has happened in the World. Most times I just don’t care!
06 May 2009 1200
Jimmy Buffet is right: Changes in Latitudes, changes in attitudes, nothing remains quite the same. Memories of my past life diminish, however not a day goes by than I do not lament the loss of my son Craig to a cruelly premature death, not to mention my two other children to the lesser angels of their nature. Perhaps one day they will understand how much dear old Dad did for them as they were growing up and they will set aside their ideas of being wronged, whether real or imaginary or even conveniently contrived.
07 May 2009 1445
Ernest Hemmingway once described manly behavior as the ability to maintain grace under pressure. This morning when the Mainsail sheet broke off the boom allowing the Main to run free was indeed a healthy administration of pressure. After a bit of hard work the system was jury-rigged and seems to be holding well.
Goals easily attained are meaningless. Only through struggle and adversity can we truly appreciate our accomplishments. Hell, if this were easy the whole ocean would be full of shallow water sailors. I don’t think a rich person with a new million dollar boat would ever experience the feeling I had after taking care of today’s problem du jour.
As I near the Southern ocean and view the Southern cross nightly I am grateful for this adventure. I would rather try and fail than fail to try. Today has been a trying day.
08 May 2009.
A quiet day with no problems and good conversations w/ George. All systems nominal. Will have to put fuel into onboard tanks. Will give some indication of usage so far. With engine on I can have fan on for sleeping down below. I should be envious of my fellow sailors who have air conditioning and ice makers, but I’m not. Some discomfort makes the rest of the creature comforts much more appreciated. No contact via Radio last night although I had good reception on channel 12A. Either a misunderstanding about time or my friend in Hawaii wasn’t available. May try marine operator soon.
Should reach the Equator tomorrow. You can have the heat!!!! I’m beginning how the weather on planet Earth is driven by the Sun and the Oceans. The sea water here is almost hot. All that energy has to go someplace, hence our winds, waves, currents and storms. Beautiful full Moon, Milky Way seemingly within grasp. Southern Cross becoming a familiar friend.
09 May 2009
Equator 20 miles ahead. This will be a good milestone.
“Pride goeth before a fall”. Much wisdom in that saying. After putting 15 gallons of fuel into the starboard tank I discovered that about 4 gallons had somehow overflowed into the bilge. It was a filthy mess to clean but it did lead to an evening salt water bath. The water felt marvelous.
Today there is a fair and favorable breeze.
Last night I saw both Polaris (the North Star) and the Southern cross ( the bottom star of the Cross points South). I felt as though the Stars I had spent my life under were slowly releasing their grip on me and the new stars of the Southern Hemisphere were slowly welcoming me as you would cautiously allow a stranger deeper access into your home as he developed your trust.
Full moon and empty arms last night. Wondering if the old gang at the dance venue missed me or even cared about where I was. That Friday night routine, although fun, had about run its course with me. There will be new places to dance as the days and nights go by.
ADDENDUM 2200 hrs
The Southern Ocean has welcomed me with THE most beautiful full moonrise I’ve ever seen. The color is best described with my limited vocabulary is able as a cross between orange e and red, perhaps umber, perhaps amber, to be certain, breathtaking.
Later, as I gazed upon the Southern Cross, I experienced a profound sense of “Home”. As I turned, by force of habit, to look again upon the Big Dipper and Polaris I physically arrested my search and stopped searching, perhaps for the last time, for a star of my past. My past was behind me and I cared no longer to relive it.
Later, as I breathed deeply the delicious air of the Southern Ocean I experienced a profound feeling that I was breathing my first unburdened breath of air since I was fourteen years old. I no longer felt that I had ANY obligation to any other person or entity in the World. I was starting to live in the NOW. No longer did I have a duty, or sense thereof, to a spouse, children, profession or anything or anyone else in the Universe. I was starting to live the remainder of my life for myself, by myself and only to serve my wishes, needs and dreams.
10 May 2009
Fresh and favorable winds greeted me in the am. Took on a hitchhiker yesterday in the form of an albatross which took a ride on the solar panel. He would probably still be with us but after he pooped on George in the middle of the night he was sent packing. No good deed goes unpunished. Optimistic about our passage to Fiji taking less than the planned 25 days. Must be careful about my optimism and plans. Such frivolity is a sure way to make God laugh.
11 May 2009
LAND HO!!!!!!!!!! Passed West of Canton island this am.
Beautiful night but negligible winds this morning. Back to motors sailing until winds freshen.
The FUBAR God has been friendly so far. George discovered that a retaining washer and cotter key which holds the mainsail to the boom/mast connection has failed. We are in the process of making another repair, i.e., jury-rig repair. Oh well, just another repair to be done in Fiji.
12 May 2009
Last night the stars put on their spectacular show--- for free. I again felt humbled by my insignificance in the universe.
Golly, its not all about ME after all!
I feel sorry for the millions of people who spend their entire lives without ever having spent one night observing the stars on a cloudless night, away from air pollution, away from ambient light of the towns and cities where they live. Perhaps if they did so they would reassess their own significance in the Cosmos.
As I write these observations I realize that not very many years from now I will be dead and gone. My brief sojourn in this life will be unnoted and unremarkable. The stars, the stars shall remain. They have always been. They will always be. I don’t care what you believe about how the stars came to be. Whether by accident of nature or divine creation is irrelevant. Take time. Make an effort. Enjoy a communal night with the stars. You will never forget nor regret such an experience. The stars will appreciate the audience.
13 May 2009
If reincarnation is real and I have a choice, my decision is simple; I would come back as a dolphin. A pod of 20-30 showed up this morning and were fascinating as usual. You’d think I’d become tired or at lease blasé about watching them. Fortunately, even I haven’t become that jaundiced. We could learn much from these gentle creatures. They seem to live to raise and protect their family, eat only what they need, make war on no other species….and still take time to play. They require no money, television, internet nor any of the creature comforts we “superior” humans cannot seem to live without.
ADDENDUM 2000 hrs.
I awoke before dawn. The stars softly greeted me. Venus was as lovely as any Goddess ever described by Man.
The Eastern sky lightened almost imperceptibly as the Sun returned on its faithful course. Slowly, slowly the stars surrendered their dominion of the sky. Lastly, Venus too, rested behind the brilliance of the dawn.
The day gave blessings of fair winds and following seas. Dolphins joined me for a while and taught me something new about the importance of play as well as the unimportance of the acquisition of material goods.
As evening drew near the Sun again began its retreat to the Western horizon. In so doing the colors of the sunset began their everlasting enchantment. No poet could ever describe the colors. No painter, even the Impressionists, could ever capture the soft pinks, corals, blues, pastels nor the gentle fading and surrendering of the clouds towering tops, First white, then coral, then pink then, ever so slowly, and without sadness, to shades of grey.
The clouds had shed their colors yes, but the stars began to reassert their presence and again softly beckon for attention.
Watching this display eventually wrenched a tear, then another, then many form my too often closed heart. I then realized that I had just experienced one of the most joyous moments of my life. Selfishly, I realized that as I continue to pursue this dream I have awaited so long, that I may actually be blessed with more days and nights of such simple, beautiful, peaceful times. If no other day or night in my future matches this one I will still be grateful for the bountiful beauty of such a perfect, perfect day.
Going topside again, I was greeted by a now old and dear friend; the Southern Cross. I eased the sails and adjusted the course to a more gentle use of the wind and seas. I was no longer in a rush. I had fully come to love the Sea and this life a fervently as I had any woman, any child or any other person in my life. I was rich beyond any measure I that had ever attained in my fifty years of working in the World of Man. Maybe this will sound silly to the reader; it does not to me. I felt reborn! I have a new life. Whatever time remains left for me on this, my mortal coil, allows me to believe that after such a long struggle, no matter what happens, that I can die happy with my spirit at rest. Should I depart this world tonight, it will all have been worth the effort.
May 14 2009 1000
As though jealous of my praises of the stars and the sun, the clouds and winds have seemingly conspired to deprive me of both and in so doing demonstrated that they too have a place in the Universe. I was awakened to strong winds, intermittent rain squalls and confused seas at 0200. At 0900 I was finally able to leave the helm and tend to other matters, such as these notes. Perhaps compromise is in order with the elements of nature. Perhaps it is all just chance and circumstance. Perhaps nature has taught me to not praise one element so highly over another. Perhaps.
15 May 2009 0900
Early entry today as it appears the day will be blustery with good winds but occasional squalls.
Not to be forgotten, lightning decided to put in an appearance at 0400. The wind had been calm and the seas flat until then. Excitement soon began as the winds increased, the waves increased and, of course, the rain increased. What fun!
It seems as of now that nature’s forces have stopped trying to outdo on another for my attention and respect and we have favorable winds, seas, heading and speed.
OK!, OK!, OK! Nature. I’m impressed with ALL of your powers. Can’t we all just get along? (With thanks and credit to Rodney Smith)
16 May 2009 1030
Looks like we are all starting to get along, nature and me. Beautiful starry night with favorable winds and seas. Good breeze this am with hopes for a freshening wind. George has turned out to be a great crew member. He is quick to learn, remembers what he was taught and never raises a word of complaint.
17 May 2009 0900
Nature is getting along too well! We entered a dead calm area about 0200. I may stop at Wallis island for fuel, supplies and rest. “The best laid plans of mine or mice oft must go astray”
Fuel consumption/ capacity becoming an issue. Another lesson learned----the hard way. Oh, well, those are the lessons you usually remember. Usually.
Addendum 1400 hrs. Took advantage of very calm water to make a few repairs. The boom/mast connection problem tested my physical and mental faculties to the utmost, not to mention my sailor’s colorful language.
As usual, George was a great help and together we accomplished what I thought was going to be an impossible repair.
Thinking strongly of pulling in to Wallis island, a French territory 200 miles north of Fiji. It will give us the chance to reprovision, take on water and fuel, visit and island not frequented by tourists, reacquire contact with the outside world via the internet and GET SOME REST!!!!!!!!!!
18 May 2009
Land Ho!!!! Wallis island spotted about 1100. Caught a 15# barracuda around 0800. Cooked it up right away to avoid spoilage. Tasted great. Hope to enter Wallis lagoon this pm and find a safe anchorage.
Wallis is seldom visited by tourists and is said to be one of the few remaining mostly genuine Polynesian islands. The population is said to be descendants of Tongans and are best known for their skills in making tapa cloth. Probably more entries later but must attend to the approach to Wallis as well as the lagoon entry.
ADDENDUM 2030 hrs
Standing off Wallis island tonight as the pass would not be entered until after dark. Being totally unfamiliar with the channel and approach, I decided to give Murphy a rest. Happiness is becoming a daily visitor.
19 May 2009 1800 hrs.
What a night, what a day. Stood off Wallis last night then entered the lagoon about 1200. It is VERRRRRY interesting to enter a new channel. It also helps that the French have their buoy colors opposite to that of the USA. Fortunately, I can also read depth fairly well by the color of the water. Naturally it poured down rain as I was halfway thru the channel thereby erasing most of the color differences between shallow water and deep. Maybe Murphy slept last night, but he got up early today.
Checked in with the Gens d’arme even got my first entry stamp.
Looks like I’ll visit here only long enough to reprovision and refuel. Did I mention the there is NO INTERNET SERVICE in Mata Utu.
A group of boys were cute as they played a cross between cricket and baseball using a tree limb as a bat and four or five different balls raging from a golf ball to a large whiffle ball. The kids seemed to be having as much fun as any American kids I’ve seen with insanely expensive baseball gear.
Wallis is NOT Waikiki. Thank goodness!!!!
I paddled the dinghy ashore because I was sure the police would stop processing applications at 1600. As I paddled back to TORRID I counted 746 strokes with the paddle. Next time Gillin, put the engine on!
Lots of black tip sharks in the lagoon. George going ashore @ 1800.
Extremely tired, but a good tired.
20 May 2009 2345 hrs.
Slept like a baby! Much needed rest. Awoke to church bells at 0600 followed by blaring trumpets which sounded the start of an all day Cricket game. The game was interesting to watch because the players had VERY little in the way of equipment; hand carved bats about twice the size of an American baseball bat, a hardwood ball which weighed 3 kilos (6.6 pounds!!!!!) and two sticks pounded upright in the dirt to mark the bases----I think.
After watching the game for several hours, yes I said hours I realized that both teams were having just plain fun. They did not laugh at their opponents when they made a mistake nor did they raise their voices at their teammates when they made a misplay. A good hit or a good fielding move was met by a smattering of polite applause. Each inning, if that is what they are called, was followed by a ritual change of bats and apparently an homage to the King. The players would kneel facing the King’s palace and chants were made followed by the blaring of numerous horns and whistles. The umpires/referees were clad in gaily colored ribbons, tinsel, leis, some kind of hand woven cloth about the waist as well as a t-shirt and a lava-lava ( a cloth worn like a woman’s long skirt.
George and I had a great time talking with Stephan, the owner of a restaurant together with three of his Fijian employees.
I am altogether favorably impressed by the people of Wallis island. They have not been corrupted by tourism and seem to be peaceful and content in their lives. Every vehicle passes by with the occupants waving to the visitors. Harsh words or actions have not been observed. This may not be Paradise, but just try to tell that to the people of Wallis Island.
22 May 2009 Mata Utu, Wallis island, 1745 hrs.
Murphy awoke me to a sense that something was amiss. The wind had picked up a great deal and the anchor was dragging. Fortunately I had turned off the Chart plotter last night so the little darlin’ could get some rest. Oh yeah, in so doing I also turned off the ANCHOR DRAG ALARM. I hope it got a good rest because it is going to be a long time before it gets turned off again. Oh, well, another lesson learned courtesy of the ubiquitous, omnipresent Mr. Murphy.
The guys we met at Wallis were just great. What good and generous hearts they have. Their genuine friendliness as well as that of all the residents of Wallis I met was humbling. What a good lesson in getting along with your fellow man.
23 May 2009 13 31 S 176 26 W 1350 hrs
“On the road again, just couldn’t wait to get on the road again.” Left Wallis on the fly. Grew tired of the terrible anchorage at Mata Utu, Wallis island. A lesson learned about fuel awareness. Expect to be in Fiji in 3-4 days. Look forward to a safe anchorage and creature comforts, especially a hot shower, a warm meal, a cold drink (non-alcoholic) and a flush toilet. Sailing teaches you to REALLY appreciate the simple things in life. Sailing for weeks at a time is also an excellent way to lose weight. Three more weeks of this and I won’t be able to recognize myself, especially since I’ve grown my beard again.
24 May 2009 14 58 S 177 43 W 1500 hrs.
“Be careful what you wish for, it just might come true.” Last night was a regular gull washer. TORRENTIAL RAINS!!!, high winds, rough seas………what great fun! I might have had 6 hours of fitful sleep in the past 48. On the up side, Torrid is running well and I should be in a comfortable anchorage in 2 days. Many repairs and much cleanup to do once I’m safely stopped. Last night I thought of all those poor people flying to Fiji in 757’s. Dozing in their airline seats, fat and sleepy after drinks and dinner they had absolutely NO idea what fun they were missing out on. Poor bastards!
This morning I thought of those same tourists as they arrived in Fiji only to find that it was pouring down rain. They couldn’t go out to the beach so they had to content themselves with the challenging decision of whether to have a Mimosa or Bloody Mary with their breakfast. They probably were forced to go shopping for their “guilt gifts” for the kids and family back home. Poor bustards!
25 May 2009 15 00 S 178 41 W 1330 hrs
Yes, I’m lucky, lucky to be alive! At 0400 we were suddenly struck by the leading edge of a weather change that nearly dumped us on our side! I could only glimpse the wind gauge which was at 46 knots and we were heeled over so badly that we were in real danger. A hole was torn in the main sail, the jib was shredded on the trailing edge, the running lights were probably torn off. “If not for the courage for her crew the Minnow would’ve been lost.”
George was fantastic in lowering the Main, furling the jib and untangling many lines. I was busy keeping the boat into the wind.
We ran downwind on the engine from 0400 until 1200 today . “Riding out a storm” has a new appreciation to me. We are now limping along on what remains of my noble little jib, heading just south of west.
Those poor tourists on Fiji probably had to put up with another windy, rainy day. Lucky bastards!
26 May 2009 16 17 S 179 05 W 0920 hrs.
I’m beginning to think we are going to make it! Entered Fijian waters around 0300 and are making good progress thru the Nunuku Passage. George caught, killed and cleaned a 15# Yellowfin tuna within minutes of putting the lure in the water. He had never killed yet alone cleaned an animal in his life. Now, if he will only eat it! I showed him the way a real man eats Sashimi i.e., right off the still quivering bone. I thought he was going to hurl. What fun.
Oh, yes, the tourists will have a perfect day today in Fiji.
ADDENDUM 1830 hrs.
Tavenui beckons 35 miles away! Almost there. Must check in at Savusavu first. Will need repairs and rest but it REALLY LOOKS LIKE WE ARE GOING TO MAKE IT!!!!
Got slammed by a squall this pm however we saw this one coming. Boy, talk about instantaneous wind changes, torrential rains and just all kinds of fun.
Treated George to sashimi made from the fish he caught this am( raw fish dipped in soy sauce with wasabi). He really liked it. In Hawaiian pidgin English we say: “Broke da mout” when something tastes particularly good.
No wind early pm so we are motor sailing to the tip of Tavenui.
27 May 2009 17 02 S 179 54 W 1600 hrs
I awoke from the most wonderful nap of my life. I had been exhausted, nearly beaten, humbled by the experiences of the previous night and earlier day.
Tavenui, like a beautiful, willing goddess, yet reluctant to surrender her favors too easily, had, at last, allowed me to approach and view her closely.
The previous night had found me becalmed yet within view of Tavenui’s gracious outline. She lay just to the East bedecked in a crown of wispy clouds. Her valleys remained impenetrable in misty rain and azure shadows as if to say: “You may look, but you have to earn the privilege to approach and perhaps to touch.
She cannot be cajoled out of her favors by force or cunning. My engine had promptly stopped running at 2200 hours. Seems my transmission had run low on fluid and decided to take a rest. Naturally, the ONE thing I did not have aboard Torrid was automatic transmission fluid. Murphy had struck again.
Another long night was spent topside. Since the engine had stopped the wind had decided to do the same. Dead calm befell Torrid, a scant six miles from Tavenui.
The following day was also composed of water so still and flat that a water skier would’ve been in heaven. Tavenui watched from afar as George and I made do with the conditions we were dealt and managed to make several repairs.
Tavenui sent out one of her guards in the form of a huge Mahi-mahi to leisurely cruise past our craft and probe our intentions. No military uniform can ever match the stunning colors of the noble Mahi-mahi. A forty pound plus bull cruised slowly past our starboard quarter. In crystal clear waters he reconnoitered our position and behavior fathoming our intentions.
To see such a creature in nature is a rare treat indeed. I made me somewhat sad that they are the very best tasting fish in the Ocean.
Finishing our chores, I noticed the briefest wisp of wind on the water. Deploying our now tattered sails, I coaxed movement out of Torrid an began moving away from Tavenui to use the wind most effectively.
As if sensing our possible departure, Tavenui allowed the winds to change ever so slightly so as to allow us to begin another tentative approach. After setting the sails and the auto-pilot I surrendered to the call of
Morpheus and slept the sleep of the just.
As I slowly awoke to the music track to OUT OF AFRICA I ever so slowly began physical movement again. The nap had been so deliciously refreshing that I did not want it to ever end. However, I longed to see if Tavenui had allowed us a closer view. Stretching catlike from my slumber I slowly opened my eyes to a wonder few have ever seen. Tavenui is, beyond doubt, one of the most beautiful places on earth. When viewed from the ramparts of her domain, the Pacific Ocean, one can appreciate that this is indeed one of the most perfect places on our planet.
Sailing near the South-east end of Tavenui a signal was sent by the island, perhaps as a beacon to direct my return. The signal was a blow hole. These are created when a lava tube which opens yards distant from the shore also opens beneath the waves on its seaward side. As waves cast themselves ashore some are channeled into the lava tube, past the shoreline and eventually erupting, geyser-like inland thereby forming a white signal inviting a return visit.
Rounding Tavenui’s southernmost tip I began the run to Savusavu vowing, if she will allow me, to return to her shores and like a new, mysterious and adoring lover, explore her in detail.
28 May 2009 Savusavu Harbor, Fiji
We made it! Bruised, battered, bent and bedraggled, but not beaten. We arrived in Savusavu Bay around 1500 hours and sailed to the little town. The anchorage is a quaint delight, It is out of time with the rest of the World and nobody seems to care. Life is slow, meaningful and quiet. Conversations take time, yet time is almost meaningless.
George is a great trooper and fine sailor. He has a positive mental attitude which is not learned in any cutesy, thousand dollar a pop seminar. He truly lives in the “Now”. I hope I’ve learned something from him.
Repairs on Torrid commence tomorrow. I’ve met “Curly” who is the “Go to guy” for getting boat repairs done in Fiji. Sent quick notices via very slow e-mail to several people.
I’m tired. Mind and body are spent, in a good way. I can now have the luxury of nursing my aches and pains.
Oh, yes. Remember the barracuda we caught? It seems it got the last laugh on us. Apparently, it was contaminated with the Ciguatera nerve toxin common in certain predatory fish. George had felt sick and weak. I, a person who normally has the constitution of a sewer rat, had also been affected with a persistent and annoying rash.
Despite our numerous difficulties, they were VASTLY outweighed by the overall experience.
Say whatever you will but you will never be able to take this experience from me. Although it is just the first step in my long- planned and oft dreamed of voyage around the World, the three thousand mile “shakedown cruise” was an experience I cannot possibly but treasure and never forget. I can only hope that the reader of these ramblings takes and enjoys at least a small fraction of the joys I felt since April 28, 2009.
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