Today, 19 August, 2010, Dianne and I visited Mele Caccades, a totally beautiful and idyllic setting fairly close to Port Villa.
There were several places where you could wade in and enjoy the cool, clear, cool waters.
It was WELL worth visiting
Thursday, August 19, 2010
IDYLLIC MELE CASCADES
Today, 19 August, 2010, Dianne and I visited Mele Caccades, a totally beautiful and idyllic setting fairly close to Port Villa.
There were several places where you could wade in and enjoy the cool, clear, cool waters.
It was WELL worth visiting
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
ETON BEACH, VANUATU
Yesterday, 17 August, 2010 Dianne and I visited Eton Beach and Eton Blue Lagoon on Efate Island near Port Vila.
The beach is one of the prettiest beaches I've ever seen and I've seen a LOT of beaches. The beach was totally deserted.
A clear, fresh-water stream flows into the ocean right alongside the beach.
I am VERY pleasantly surprised that a developer has not turned the area into a resort.
Nearby was a fresh water lagoon with vivid blue water. I was surprised to see small fresh water crabs on the log I was sitting on.
The day was sunny and beautiful. Truly one of those "Perfect Days".
Today, 18 August brought rain to Port Vila. It gave Dianne the opportunity to complete her "Guilt gift" purchases for her numerous friends and relatives in Australia.
Sunday, August 15, 2010
SAILOR'S HANDS
When I was in College, Law School and practicing Law for 33 years I was ashamed of my "soft" hands.
If you "click" on the photo you can see the cuts, scars and callouses of the hands of a sailor.
I don't think I'll have that "shame" for some time to come. I hope!
PORTRAIT OF A SAILOR AS A HAPPY MAN
Dianne recently took this photo of me.
What is remarkable, at least to me, about this photo, is the fact that I seem (and am) genuinely happy and content.
I have not felt this way in a long, long, long, VERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRY LONG time!
SNORKELING NEAR PORT VILA
Today I took Dianne snorkeling off Iririki Island near Port Vila.
Frankly, the snorkeling in Fiji is MUCH better. The corals and reef fish are not as colorful. Having said that, I did find several Clown Fish (aka "NEMO") colonies, some with very large specimens.
I taught Dianne how to follow seashell "trails" in the sand.
When certain seashells move about under the sand they wind up leaving a trail which leads directly to their location.
I was able to find several different species of shells, all alive, which I promptly returned to their homes in the sea after showing them to Dianne.
Frankly, the snorkeling in Fiji is MUCH better. The corals and reef fish are not as colorful. Having said that, I did find several Clown Fish (aka "NEMO") colonies, some with very large specimens.
I taught Dianne how to follow seashell "trails" in the sand.
When certain seashells move about under the sand they wind up leaving a trail which leads directly to their location.
I was able to find several different species of shells, all alive, which I promptly returned to their homes in the sea after showing them to Dianne.
RAISING THE COUNTRY FLAG
After you lower the "Q" flag you must raise a "courtesy" flag of the country you are visiting.
This picture is of me raising the Republic of Vanuatu courtesy flag after I had been granted entrance to the country.
LOWERING THE Q FLAG
When you enter a new country on a yacht you arrive under quarantine regulations and must fly a yellow flag on your starboard spreader until officially cleared by Customs, Immigration and Quarantine.
Only after these procedures are completed may you lower the yellow (or "Q" flag) and raise the country flag of the country you are visiting.
Here IS a picture of me lowering the "Q" flag.
FOOD POISONING
Three nights ago I had dinner at a nearby restaurant.
I shared a platter of food with Dianne and we ate the same food. Except the mussels!
The following morning I really felt "crook" (Australian for "sick").
I stayed in bed all day and had frequent bathroom calls which I will not discuss the details except to say that I was able to see evidence of the offending item; the mussels!
Did I say earlier that the food in Vanuatu is 1000% better than Fiji? Well, the red meat is truly beautiful.
I used to really LOVE mussels. It may be some time before I try them again.
I shared a platter of food with Dianne and we ate the same food. Except the mussels!
The following morning I really felt "crook" (Australian for "sick").
I stayed in bed all day and had frequent bathroom calls which I will not discuss the details except to say that I was able to see evidence of the offending item; the mussels!
Did I say earlier that the food in Vanuatu is 1000% better than Fiji? Well, the red meat is truly beautiful.
I used to really LOVE mussels. It may be some time before I try them again.
DEATH OF A FRIEND
Sadly, I have received news of the death of a friend, colleague and fellow sailor in Hawaii.
It was his dream to also sail the South Pacific and he had hoped to go to Tahiti next year.
As death must eventually come to us all, it has been my philosophy to attempt to fulfill my lifelong dream of sailing around the World before I, too, am gathered in by the "Grim Reaper".
CARPE DIEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It was his dream to also sail the South Pacific and he had hoped to go to Tahiti next year.
As death must eventually come to us all, it has been my philosophy to attempt to fulfill my lifelong dream of sailing around the World before I, too, am gathered in by the "Grim Reaper".
CARPE DIEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!
OH, I WISH I HAD A HANDLEBAR MOUSTACHE!
With respect to Jimmy Buffet's desire to have a "pencil-thin moustache", I have let my beard grow back in full and have especially let my moustache grow out to "handlebar" length.
Someday, when I'm old and bald, I'll look back on this picture with fond memories.
DIANNE, HEIDI, SACHA AND ME AT WATERFRONT BAR
I met Heidi and Sacha, both from England and took them out sailing. They were both pretty cool kids.
The picture is us at dinner.
EARTHQUAKE DAY ON VANUATU
When the 7.5 earthquake struck Vanuatu Dianne and I were on nearby Iririki Island.
The photo of the swimming pool faces Port Vila. Moments later water was sloshing out of the pool.
The other photo shows people who have taken to the highest spot on the island in anticipation of a possible Tsunami.
Although a very small Tsunami was generated and struck Port Vila, it did no damage.
Whew!!!!!!!!!!!!
Saturday, August 14, 2010
SUNSET PHOTO- PORT VILA
Here is a photo of a very nice sunset at Port Vila.
Although nice, Fiji's sunsets are far more spectacular.
BOOTS THE CAT
Here is a picture of "BOOTS" the cat ringing a bell to get his fish reward.
He hangs out at the War Horse saloon. Whenever he gets hungry he rears up on his hind legs and rings a ship's bell with his front paw. He is instantly rewarded with a piece of fish. It is really funny to watch!
He has become so popular that his picture is on a postage stamp in Vanuatu.
The War Horse Saloon is straight out of the old American West, complete with saddles for barstools. I colud almost swear it was the same as a saloon in Jackson Hole, Wyoming.
They also have the best pool table in the South Pacific and also serve a pretty good dish of nachos. Yum!!!!!!!!!
DIANNE
When I was in Fiji I met a very special lady from Australia.
We had a VERY nice, albeit short, time together in Fiji.
Fortunately, for me, she agreed to meet me in Vanuatu where we have been having a wonderful time.
The picture is of Dianne and myself at Hideaway Island.
LOG OF PASSAGE FROM FIJI TO VANUATU
I will try to download my log of the passage from Fiji to Vanuatu.
FIJI TO VANUATU LOG
11 July 2010- Departure day at last!
I awoke to torrential rain with lightning strikes all around and gale-force winds. I thought it best to wait another day.
This evening I bade farewell to my numerous Fijian friends and fellow sailors.
At First Landing, my home away from home, I visited with some friends and started to head back to my boat in anticipation of a busy day ahead. I was stopped by the manager and “told” to wait a little while.
At most resorts in Fiji a few guitarists will come out and sing a song of farewell to departing guests. I’ve seen it a hundred times!
In my case I had EVERYBODY come out to sing to me. Maids, cooks, security, waiters, waitresses, bartenders and numerous others came out. It was well over 30 people singing two Fijian farewell songs, to me! I had never seen this done before.
Tears welled in my eyes and I thought how privileged I must be to have so many Fijian friends who actually seemed to like me. Hugs all around from women and men were shared.
I thought how very lucky I have been to get to know these wonderful, peaceful and happy people.
12 July. My departure time was delayed by the compulsory viewing of the World Soccer Final presented live at 0630 Fiji time. It was a tremendous game and went into double overtime until Spain scored 1 goal and the Netherlands ran out of time. It was sad to see the Netherlands lose after putting up such a great game. In the end, someone has to win and I believed Spain richly deserved their win.
I went to the Marina office and paid for my extra day and was soon off to Lautoka.
I had a “merry old time” launching and preparing my dinghy for my trip ashore to check out of Lautoka waters.
Of course, my PROBLEM DU JOUR sprang up. After great difficulty launching my dinghy and loading everything up, my motor would not start. I hemmed and hawed and finally came up with a solution, but by that time I was just too pooped to pop and decided to sit quietly at anchor and do my “business” with customs and immigration in the morning.
It is now near dark and you can find my anchorage spot on Google Earth at South17degrees 13 minutes and 895 seconds and East 177 Degrees 26 minutes and 644 seconds.
The weather is fair but a poor wind for the direction I hope to travel tomorrow.
13 July, 2010
This entry may be short as I am REALLY pooped out!
At 0800 I presented myself to Customs and all went well. I am now cleared to sail to Savusavu, Fiji.
I loaded some last minute fruits, meats and vegetables. I met some nice kids from Denmark and loaned them my F5 maps of the Yasawa Islands and gave them my extra copy of The Lonely Planet Guide to Vanuatu and New Caledonia.
The anchor came up with a little grumbling and I left for Momi Bay.
As the wind was “Right on my nose”, meaning it was coming directly FROM the direction I wished to go, I wound up using my motor. Honestly, sometimes it is like driving a Winnebago. No potholes, just reefs!
I didn’t get to Momi until after dark. Thankfully it is one of the VERY FEW bays in Fiji with range lights. It was hairy and scary in the dark, but all ended well.
I’m going to put a movie in the Computer and no doubt “crash” half-way through it.
I really have to watch out for these nighttime anchoring. I now have even MORE gray hairs!
14 July 2010. Happy Bastille Day (French equivalent to the 4th of July).
It is hard to describe what did NOT go wrong today.
My anchor came up just fine.
As I was departing the main shipping channel a tremendous tidal surge was heading out to sea. Although my instruments were just fine it looked like waves breaking in shallow water. Actually, it was the current being up welled from the 150’ deep channel and “looking” like waves. I finally figured out the first PROBLEM DU JOUR and put out to sea.
My depth gauge decided to take a little holiday and stopped working. The second PROBLEM DU JOUR was to navigate without a depth gauge. That is NO fun, believe me. I tried a few tricks which did not work. Finally it started working again when I reached the 100’ line. I’ll probably have to reprogram it-----tomorrow!
Then my Automatic pilot went on holiday. This was the 3rd PROBLEM DU JOUR.
I have no idea what’s wrong, I have a couple of guesses, but if I can’t get it to work-properly, I’ll probably have to stop in Suva to have it fixed. As a solo sailor, I REALLY NEED my autopilot to work perfectly. Tomorrow I’ll troubleshoot the problem and go ahead and set up my wind-driven Auto-Pilot. That should be relatively easy.
With all of the stress, pulling, yanking and generally lurching about the boat, I have managed to strain my L-4 vertebra. For those of you who have known the pain this brings, I’m preaching to the choir. For those of you who don’t-----be happy, be very happy. I have aspirin to manage the pain, none of the fun stuff like Vicodin we get in the States. So, yanking my backwas PROBLEM DU JOUR #4.
I pulled in to the comfort and hospitality of Robinson Crusoe Resort. I’ve been here before and it is VERY yachtie friendly, at least 7 other yachts are here. We yachties are invited to use the facilities, watch the shows and even participate in the activities for free. We can buy lunch and dinner for $10.00 Fijian which is about US$ 5.50. The food is good and is buffet style----eat all you like. You can go back for seconds once everyone is fed.
I’m about to go ashore and thank the Fijian lads who helped guide me thru the channel.
Wish me luck w/ my repairs----tomorrow.
15 July 2010
The self-steering wind vane is repaired and ready for use. The only problem is the there has to be sufficient wind to make it work!
The dinghy is running like a champ.
My depth gauge seems to be recalibrated and working fine. I’ll not get proof until after I cross the 200’ and 400’ lines. We’ll see.
The REAL problem remains with my automatic pilot. I discovered the problem. The idiot who installed it (not me) put it in a location where it could “NEVER” get wet! Salt water is not the best of things to get into electronic gear. The system is TRYING to work but I’m sure repairs or replacement will be required in Suva.
Yesterday I went ashore to Robinson Crusoe Resort. I ran into several sailors I’d met in other locations. The hospitality was great and the FJ$ 10.00 dinner with ham, roast beef, baked potatoes and salad was quite a good deal.
I’ll be going back ashore in a couple hours.
In all, it has been a good day and I’ve solved most of my problems. The electric auto-helm is a MUST! This is especially more important for the solo sailor.
My back is a wee bit better but I’m taking the strongest over-the-counter stuff you can buy in Fiji.
I’m going to make an early start tomorrow and hope to make Suva by tomorrow night. I may have to anchor in some untested coves or harbors.
17/May 2010 was one of the longest days of my life! Fortunately it was not one of those bad days, just long.
I awoke at 7, made myself a big breakfast as I knew it was going to be a long day. I just didn’t know how long.
I departed at 9 and headed towards Suva. I thought I could anchor in the lagoon at Mbenga Island.
With the wind right smack dab “On the nose” I had to use the engine-for the next 25 hours with no sleep---------remember, my auto-helm is not working. Part of the reason I decided to push on to Suva was the strong possibility that I can find some to fix it there.
Today is Sunday, it’ll DEFINITELY be my day of rest.
I’ll launch my dinghy and have dinner at the Royal Suva Yacht Club and trade a few lies with other Yachties.
My eyes are crossing, so I have to sign off.
18/July 2010- Sunday
I had a very long nap yesterday.
I went ashore to the RSYC (Royal Suva Yacht Club) and met “German George”. Apparently they have so many Georges here that they’ve given them a nickname based upon their ethnicity. German George turns out to be the “Go to guy” when it comes to Auto-helms, he also thinks he can replace my Windlass gypsy, what a relief that would be. He’s coming to the boat tomorrow am.
Today I’ll replace the diesel fuel I used motoring from Lautoka and buy more gasoline for the outboard and electric generator. I’ll also fix the Monitor wind-driven self-steering system. Like Steve Martin, I’m just a “Wild and crazy guy.”
I hope to catch a bus into Suva. I need to buy a wristwatch, preferably a Casio. They are cheap and completely reliable and not the target of thieves!
Oh yes, my Interphase iScan V90 depth gauge decided to foul up……………again and of course when I needed it most. The “Forward Looking” function of the unit, which was why I bought it in the first place, NEVER has worked properly. If I cannot reprogram it and get it to work right I’ll buy and externally mounted depth gauge and send the old one back to Interphase. If they can’t fix it I’ll have an interesting article to send to “Noonsite”. It is a yachties website where we share all kinds of information, good, bad and otherwise.
Suva, as usual, is rainy!
18 July, 2010- Sunday
A day of miracles! First my Auto-Helm came back to life. After 2 days of drying out I tested it this morning and it worked! I went thru the initial programming (called Commissioning) and everything worked normally. Obviously, the water that splashed on the computer “brain” of the Auto-helm was fresh water.
My best “Crewmember” “Otto” is most welcome back aboard.
Then my depth gauge came back to a semblance of life. I went back thru the programming and everything seems to be working just fine.
I refilled my diesel tanks with my “Jerry Jugs”. I then refilled the jerry jugs ashore, so Torrid is fueled and ready to go.
I also fixed my wind vane steering system, so it is now good to go.
Tomorrow I may get lucky and have my windlass gypsy replaced. That may be asking too much!
Tomorrow I must check in with Suva Customs and explain why I stopped in Suva. After that I should be free to proceed to Savusavu.
I’ve concluded that having guns on a boat are much more trouble than they are worth. I’ll be looking into ways to get them shipped back to the USA or even sell them-----but that may become a real paperwork nightmare.
I must remember to convert all of my remaining Fiji currency to Australian or American before departing for Vanuatu. Apparently even the banks will not accept Fijian Currency.
I’m still stoked about “Otto”.
18 JULY 2010
I finished filling the fuel Jerry jugs. Not cheap.
“German “George came out to the boat to check on the gypsy, he is not optimistic.
On the upside, the remote switch for the windlass seems to only be a wiring problem on the 3-way switch, easily corrected.
19 July 20, 2010- MONDAY
I went to Suva customs to report my need to stop in Suva for repairs, no problem except I have to report daily. Tomorrow I’ll report back and also prepare the papers to continue on to Savusavu.
I went to COST US LESS, the Fijian equivalent to COSTCO in the States. At least I won’t starve!
I expect to depart Suva at first light on 7/21/10. It may be another long day. Perhaps I can stop at Makogai Island (home of the giant clams and location of the former leper colony. It is a well protected anchorage.
20 July, 2010- TUESDAY.
Off to customs this am and an optimistic search for a computer battery. Why can’t they make computer batteries standard size like those for cars? That would make toooooooooooo much sense!
22 JULY, 2010-THURSDAY 0230 HOURS
No, I did not forget Wednesday, I’ve simply been too busy until now, at 0230.
I departed Suva with little difficulty. Watching a P& O cruise ship sail into Suva harbor made me a little jealous. All that luxury, pampering and great food.
I FINALLY found some good wind and am nearing Savusavu. For you Google fans, look up Koro island.
Otto has been performing like a champ! Not so my wind vane. A small repair I can handle myself.
I’ll be making arrangements to depart Fiji on Monday. In the meantime I can catch up on the internet. I’ll also start my malaria meds. What fun!
Another VERRRRRRRRRRRRRRY long day. My muscles are stiff as a plank. Who could be happier?
ADDENDUM: After I wrote the above, things started flying off the shelves. It seems a 3 am storm decided to hit and it could not have been at a worse time. To maintain control of Torrid I had to bring in the jib. Thus is an easy job when you have two people doing the work. As a solo sailor, the chore becomes much more difficult especially in the dark.
At dawn I re launched the jib and headed to Savusavu. Although clearly marked on my GPS sites I could not find the channel marker.
Out of caution, I brought down the sail again, found the outer marker and safely tied up.
I visited Customs, Immigration and the police----who are holding my guns. I made plans to depart Fiji Tuesday am. All seems in order,
Tonight I plan to sleep the sleep of the dead! Tomorrow is filled with repairs. What is new about that?
I caught up on some e-mail.
Goodnight!
24 July, 2010 SATURDAY
I made my final repairs. I will take on fuel tomorrow. Tomorrow is Sunday and most things are closed in Savusavu on Sundays. Monday will be a busy final provisioning day as well as a “reminder” visit w/ Sgt Eroni about the return of my guns. What a pain in the butt guns are.
25 July 2010 SUNDAY
Did I say I made my “final repairs” yesterday? Boy, was I wrong.
I started at 0700 looking for “little” last minute chores. It is now 1500 hrs and I think I’m about done.
I rigged a new stanchion line. It is not the “real thing” but it’ll do until I have the time and resources for the right fix. I saw that my main halyard (that’s the line that lifts the mainsail) had gotten mucked up around my spreaders, not a good thing to bother with at sea. I “un mucked the halyard and all is well.
Next I noticed that the chain on the anchor windlass was really mucked up. I could not drop my anchor if I had to. Apparently, while the windlass “expert” in Suva was trying to repair my remote control for the windlass he used a car key to see if it was working at all. He did get the windlass to work but in so doing he wrapped the chain around the windlass so tight that I could not free the chain from the windlass without having to disconnect the anchor. Not being COMPLETELY stupid, I secured the anchor to the boat with a safety line. Next, I had to unscrew one of the anchor shackles to get some movement on the chain. After several grunts and groans I “un mucked” the chain from the windlass and reattached the shackle to the anchor. So far, so good!
Next I thought it would be wise toactually test the windlass. When I stepped on the foot switch NOTHING happened. My windlass was not working. I had visions of BEGGING an electrician to come to the boat tomorrow morning (the day before my planned departure).
I decided to “think thru” the problem and try to solve it myself. At first, naturally, I thought a fuse had been blown when the “expert” overloaded the system. Then it occurred to me that there are switch plates, like fuses, near the control switch for the windlass. Upon inspection, both switch plates had opened up as they are supposed to when overloaded. I reset the switches, went forward, crossed my fingers and stepped on one of the control buttons for my windlass. VOILA’. It worked----like a champ!
Next I went to the remote switch by the steering wheel and looked at it. I had advised the “expert” that the wiring looked wrong. The ground should have been in the middle and the positive and negative on either side of the ground. I tested the remote-----------nothing happened. I changed the ground to the middle and the positive connection where the ground had been. I tested the remote switch again. SUCCESS! It worked like a champ.
By that time it was nearing 3 pm and I was getting a wee bit “knackered” (English term for “tired”) and decided it was time to update the log.
In Savusavu the yachts are moored very near shore. Across from me was a church service. In Fiji, especially on Sundays, the “Spirit” must really come on to the preachers both male and female. The services usually take 3 or more hours! In my case I had a preacher who used the term “PRAISE GOD!” at least seven (7) thousand times during his sermon. This is NOT an exaggeration!
I can say this: If a prerequisite for entry to heaven is simply being a good person and living an honest and happy life, heaven will be filled with Fijian folks.
Be aware, you white, anglo-saxon protestants, “born-again” Christians and all of you Bible-thumping rednecks and Christians of ALL sects and denominations, when, and if, you get to heaven, be prepared, you will be outnumbered by a factor of AT LEAST a Thousand to One by Brown, Black and Yellow people who have led good lives and deserve entry to Heaven!
As I write this log entry it occurs to me that I have a little more than a day remaining before I must depart Fiji. Absent the illness of my former spouse, the minimal contact with my grandchildren and the apparent continuing illness of my “Born Again” daughter, it has been one of the finest years of my life.
Do not believe the nonsense you hear about the “Coups” in Fiji. I’ve NEVER had a problem in Fiji and trust the Fijian people completely. Come to Fiji, especially the Yasawa and Mamanuca Islands. It is a MUCH better deal than plastic Hawaii and much more inexpensive than Tahiti. I LOVE Tahiti but it just costs too, too, too much.
BULA
, Cap’n Mal
26 JULY 2O10- MONDAY
I finished my fueling and bringing aboard more fresh water. Tomorrow I depart Fiji.
Just to be on the “safe” side, I went out to the Police Post to give Sgt. Eroni a written reminder of our agreement to meet at 1000 hours tomorrow to get my weapons back. Surprise! Sgt. Eroni is in Suva for the next month. You’d think he would’ve told me that on Thursday!
Well, I gave the message to a Cpl who in turn told me someone else would deliver the guns. I asked for the name of the person who would make the delivery. He gave me his name. When I remarked about it he said yet ANOTHER person would make the delivery. I got that guy’s name.
I finally decided that I’d go to the police station myself tomorrow and pay a taxi to take the policeman, myself and my guns to the dock, take the policeman out to my boat, place the guns aboard,ferry the policeman ashore and pay for his taxi back to the police station. What a pain!
I set a sheet line for my mainsail as I will “undersail” Torrid at night.
Torrid and I are ready-----I hope!
It will be nice to be back on the big blue agin,
I’ve programmed both my chartplotter and my hand-held GPS for the crossing.
Tomorrow’s entry in the log should be interesting..
27 JULY 2010, TUESDAY
Everything went smoothly this, especially because Customs was involved. They were very helpful.
I left Savusavu around 1330, then I found out that my my jib sail in bad shape. Fortunately, I have a spare but I must wait for calm conditions. The ocean is VERY rough tonight. Oh well, livin’ the dream.
Another sleepless night!
ADDENDUM: 1644 HOURS.
A Lot has happened since last night. The wind was increasing speed, my jib was about to be torn to shreds. I decided that I’d be smart to bring in the jib before it got dark. Actually, it was one of my few wise decisions.
I motored thru the night. “Otto” frequently could not cope with the heavy wind and VERRRRRRRRRY rough seas.
I passed Makengai Island, a place George and I saw giant clams. I remembered how serene the harbor is and how it would make the perfect place to switch out my shredded jib for my “Old Reliable” jib which had brought George and I to Fiji.
I turned around and went to Makengai.
The marking of channels is CLEARLY of little importance to the Fijian government. Simply put, there ARE NO CHANNEL MARKERS!
I tried the first channel which had zero markers then went around the other side of the island where I did remember an entry marker buoy. It was not in place probably because it was destroy in Cyclone Tomas------5 months ago!
I finally went back to the entry I had waypoints on and crossed my fingers.
What’s the old expression, “I’d rather be lucky than good”? I entered the lagoon.
Wisely I decided to prepare my anchor. Smart move! During the heavy weather several items in the foc’sl (forecastle, an area in the very forward portion of the boat where items you’ll never use are stored. This is where the anchor chain is also stored. The chief job of the “junk” is to shift during heavy weather thereby using your anchor chain impossible until you have crawled up into the foc’sl and removed ALL of the long neglected items who seem to be secretly admonishing you for their neglect.
Well, I “un-mucked” that mess only to find that my secondary anchor had decided to have a “tryst” with my main anchor and they were still in their lover’s embrace when I leaned over the bow to get the answer to my “Now What!” exclamation.
Well, I uncoupled the unlikely pair and tied a securing line around the secondary anchor and really, really wished to tell it : “Bad anchor, sit and stay. Bad Anchor!”
Well, I finally arrived in Makengai harbor and have been a busy little bee.
First I took down the old shredded jib. I stuck it in a corner as the Fijians ashore might want to have it as a cover for their homes or as a place to sit during their frequent Kava drinking nights, which means EVERY night.
A fine young named “Amena” paddled over to hit me up for a handout. Instead, I invited him aboard and had him help me launch my replacement jib. Trust me, it is a big job for 2 men to tackle let alone one 64 year old “geezer” like myself. I’ve done it alone before, but with Amena’s help the job was much easier.
I invited him aboard and gave him some cigarettes and a lighter. He was very happy.
I hope the Fijians come out to my boat tonight to collect the sail. I’ve really nothing to use it for myself.
The weather seems to be improving, so I’ll re-chart my trip to Vanuatu based on my unexpected stay at Makengai Island.
I’ve taken photos to be added to my BLOG whenever!
30 JULY 2010 1800 HOURS
I left Makengai Island around 1100on 29 July and headed for sea.
An unmarked and unchartered reef almost got me. I knew it was in the area because George had spotted it before. It is right in the middle of the channel.
Once I got out to sea I went below and noticed a LOT of sea water in my galley. As I cleaned it up I noticed more and more water was coming in. Obviously I felt like I was rearranging the deck on the Titanic. I had to find the SOURCE of the water.
I listened and could hear water in my lazarette. Ther theat’s the sternmost part of a boat where a lot of infrequently needed items are stored. I had to move TONS of stuff just to get into the lazarette and spent the next 3 hours bailing it out and assuring myself that I did not have a leak.
the idiot who screwed up EVERYTHING he did on my boat/? Well, this genius installed a bilge pump in my Lazarette, put the control switch on my electric panel but neglected to ate water ach the hose to a portal to actually pump the water overboard! I REALLY want to have a few unkind words with him.
But before that, my depth gauge would not start up. I quickly diagnosed and corrected the problem-----a disconnected wire done by--------------guess who?
The weather was cold, rainy and very windy. I got a couple of catnaps.t
Otto worked very well----especially when I was bailing out down below.
The weather today was more of the same--------VERY rough and difficult seas.
Late this afternoon I left Fi
31 July 31, 2010, 1839 HOURS
It seems the only time I can write in the computer is when my gas charger is charging the boat batteries.
Today was the WORST day of my crossing! It was a day from Hell! And to make matters worse, it was ALL my fault.
To all you sailors out there who want to change direction, ALWAYS come about and do not gybe unless absolutely necessary!
I have gybed on numerous occasions before, never again.
My jib got so hopelessly tangled I had to heave to, stop, and try to unmuck the lines.
The weather was blowing holy Hell with huge Seas. My efforts were in vain, the jib is ruined. It was almost like losing an old friend. Now I get to buy a new jib in Vanuatu!
I raised the Main sail only 1/3 of the way up as the winds were Very strong and the Seas are very rough indeed.
Being a solo sailor is just plain nuts. After my circumnavigation I hope to get a gig on a major cruise line. The theme would be “If you have EVER dreamed about sailing Around the World- We have to talk. If you’ve dreamed of doing it solo- we REALLY HAVE TO TALK. My advice-sail around the World on the Queen Mary or similar. You start on time, arrive on time, have no hassles with Government “Dignitaries”, the shows are entertaining, the dancers fun to watch, the service is great and the food is wonderful.
To add insult to injury, I’m sure I have one of my lines tangled in my propeller. I guess I’ll really have to be a sailor now. Hopefully when I arrive in Port Vila I can hire a diver to clear the prop. I can do it myself but not in the open ocean unless I get a dead calm day.
Tonight I have a lot of “Sea Room” around me. I’d like to sleep up on deck, but it has been “Bloody” cold!
Again making progress to Vila.
1 August , 2010, SUNDAY
I am making good progress to Port Vila. The winds are coming down and the sea is not nearly as rough.
For my sailor friends in Hawaii, the past week has been as bad as any I’ve seen in the Molokai channel.
I put the main sail up part way. It is a difficult sail to manage and I need to make a few minor adjustments and will be able to run her up to the top. In the meantime, I’m still making 6-9 knots on a direct line to Port Vila.
A word of advice to the “would be” sailor, ask yourself: “Am I a problem solver capable in most instances of diagnosing and FIXING the problem yourself?” If the answer is “No” then rent boats at fun destinations. If the answer is “Yes” go on several extended passages of at least 7-10 days. Begin to learn what sailing is truly all about. If you still wish to circumnavigate, good luck, you’ll need it.
Last night I was alarmed to find that my steering wheel had fallen off! What a surprise that was. Fortunately, OTTO was on the job and I was in no real danger. I diagnosed the problem: It seems a plastic screw holds the wheel to a metal control bar. Plastic wears out faster than metal. When the plastic screw stopped doing its job properly, the wheel literally fell off. The cure, albeit temporary, (see my previous comments about improvisation). The permanent cure is to find the right size stainless steel or bronze nut with a good lock washer and the problem should never recur. Ha, ha, ha.
I’ve been sending “OK” messages to 2 of my friends in Hawaii. These position reports and messages are available on the net.
I was going to cut away the jib, but it has become such a tangled mess I’ll have to wait for a really calm day or do it at Port Vila, much to the amusement of my fellow yachties.
To make matters more fun, I think I have a line tangled on my propeller. I can do it myself but only on a dead calm day. Probably Ill have Yacht Help in Vila arrange for a diver to come out to my boat and cut the line free.
It is even getting warmer in the evenings. I may sleep topside tonight.
2 AUGUST-4 AUGUST 2010
I have not updated my log as I have been very busy and very tired.
I was able to bring down my tattered jib after a 3 hour effort of getting it untangled and finally cut down. The remaining part of my jib is about the size of a very large slice of pizza! Obviously I’ll have to order a replacement jib when I’m in Vanuatu.
4 AUGUST 2010
I arrived at Port Vila, Vanuatu at sunrise.
I was led to an anchorage spot by the Harbor Master and was quickly cleared by the quarantine authorities. Customs was a much different story. The promised to come out to my boat at 1330. At 1430 I called them explaining that perhaps I had missed their call while working topside. They explained that they had become “too busy” to come out to my boat and would I please bring my documents and weapons with me to their office.
Their office was clear across the harbor and I was in some danger of running out of gasoline on my way back to Torrid.
For some reason, unexplained, the Immigration office was closed for the day. I was afraid that I could not go ashore until I’d cleared Immigration. Fortunately, I was granted the right to go ashore as long as I promised to clear Immigration the following day.
I went ashore, still low on gasoline and finally found the dinghy dock and an outfit called Yacht World.
I must’ve spent over an hour in their cold shower. It felt GREAT to be clean again.
5 AUGUST 2010
Port Vila is very nice and the food is 1000% better than Fiji. The prices are higher, but the quality of the goods and services make it worthwhile.
15 AUGUST 2010
It took me a good week to recover from the stressors of the crossing from Fiji.
Two nights ago I got food poisoning-bad mussels- and spent the day in bed between bouts of unpleasant bodily functions. Today, after 24 hours of the food poisoning, I feel pretty good, just a little weak.
Port Vila is a major tourist destination for Australians and New Zealanders. It is quite pleasant.
I’ve started to contact people to assist with my repairs and to help order a new jib. Once done with those repairs I’ll set sail to explore more of Vanuatu.
FIJI TO VANUATU LOG
11 July 2010- Departure day at last!
I awoke to torrential rain with lightning strikes all around and gale-force winds. I thought it best to wait another day.
This evening I bade farewell to my numerous Fijian friends and fellow sailors.
At First Landing, my home away from home, I visited with some friends and started to head back to my boat in anticipation of a busy day ahead. I was stopped by the manager and “told” to wait a little while.
At most resorts in Fiji a few guitarists will come out and sing a song of farewell to departing guests. I’ve seen it a hundred times!
In my case I had EVERYBODY come out to sing to me. Maids, cooks, security, waiters, waitresses, bartenders and numerous others came out. It was well over 30 people singing two Fijian farewell songs, to me! I had never seen this done before.
Tears welled in my eyes and I thought how privileged I must be to have so many Fijian friends who actually seemed to like me. Hugs all around from women and men were shared.
I thought how very lucky I have been to get to know these wonderful, peaceful and happy people.
12 July. My departure time was delayed by the compulsory viewing of the World Soccer Final presented live at 0630 Fiji time. It was a tremendous game and went into double overtime until Spain scored 1 goal and the Netherlands ran out of time. It was sad to see the Netherlands lose after putting up such a great game. In the end, someone has to win and I believed Spain richly deserved their win.
I went to the Marina office and paid for my extra day and was soon off to Lautoka.
I had a “merry old time” launching and preparing my dinghy for my trip ashore to check out of Lautoka waters.
Of course, my PROBLEM DU JOUR sprang up. After great difficulty launching my dinghy and loading everything up, my motor would not start. I hemmed and hawed and finally came up with a solution, but by that time I was just too pooped to pop and decided to sit quietly at anchor and do my “business” with customs and immigration in the morning.
It is now near dark and you can find my anchorage spot on Google Earth at South17degrees 13 minutes and 895 seconds and East 177 Degrees 26 minutes and 644 seconds.
The weather is fair but a poor wind for the direction I hope to travel tomorrow.
13 July, 2010
This entry may be short as I am REALLY pooped out!
At 0800 I presented myself to Customs and all went well. I am now cleared to sail to Savusavu, Fiji.
I loaded some last minute fruits, meats and vegetables. I met some nice kids from Denmark and loaned them my F5 maps of the Yasawa Islands and gave them my extra copy of The Lonely Planet Guide to Vanuatu and New Caledonia.
The anchor came up with a little grumbling and I left for Momi Bay.
As the wind was “Right on my nose”, meaning it was coming directly FROM the direction I wished to go, I wound up using my motor. Honestly, sometimes it is like driving a Winnebago. No potholes, just reefs!
I didn’t get to Momi until after dark. Thankfully it is one of the VERY FEW bays in Fiji with range lights. It was hairy and scary in the dark, but all ended well.
I’m going to put a movie in the Computer and no doubt “crash” half-way through it.
I really have to watch out for these nighttime anchoring. I now have even MORE gray hairs!
14 July 2010. Happy Bastille Day (French equivalent to the 4th of July).
It is hard to describe what did NOT go wrong today.
My anchor came up just fine.
As I was departing the main shipping channel a tremendous tidal surge was heading out to sea. Although my instruments were just fine it looked like waves breaking in shallow water. Actually, it was the current being up welled from the 150’ deep channel and “looking” like waves. I finally figured out the first PROBLEM DU JOUR and put out to sea.
My depth gauge decided to take a little holiday and stopped working. The second PROBLEM DU JOUR was to navigate without a depth gauge. That is NO fun, believe me. I tried a few tricks which did not work. Finally it started working again when I reached the 100’ line. I’ll probably have to reprogram it-----tomorrow!
Then my Automatic pilot went on holiday. This was the 3rd PROBLEM DU JOUR.
I have no idea what’s wrong, I have a couple of guesses, but if I can’t get it to work-properly, I’ll probably have to stop in Suva to have it fixed. As a solo sailor, I REALLY NEED my autopilot to work perfectly. Tomorrow I’ll troubleshoot the problem and go ahead and set up my wind-driven Auto-Pilot. That should be relatively easy.
With all of the stress, pulling, yanking and generally lurching about the boat, I have managed to strain my L-4 vertebra. For those of you who have known the pain this brings, I’m preaching to the choir. For those of you who don’t-----be happy, be very happy. I have aspirin to manage the pain, none of the fun stuff like Vicodin we get in the States. So, yanking my backwas PROBLEM DU JOUR #4.
I pulled in to the comfort and hospitality of Robinson Crusoe Resort. I’ve been here before and it is VERY yachtie friendly, at least 7 other yachts are here. We yachties are invited to use the facilities, watch the shows and even participate in the activities for free. We can buy lunch and dinner for $10.00 Fijian which is about US$ 5.50. The food is good and is buffet style----eat all you like. You can go back for seconds once everyone is fed.
I’m about to go ashore and thank the Fijian lads who helped guide me thru the channel.
Wish me luck w/ my repairs----tomorrow.
15 July 2010
The self-steering wind vane is repaired and ready for use. The only problem is the there has to be sufficient wind to make it work!
The dinghy is running like a champ.
My depth gauge seems to be recalibrated and working fine. I’ll not get proof until after I cross the 200’ and 400’ lines. We’ll see.
The REAL problem remains with my automatic pilot. I discovered the problem. The idiot who installed it (not me) put it in a location where it could “NEVER” get wet! Salt water is not the best of things to get into electronic gear. The system is TRYING to work but I’m sure repairs or replacement will be required in Suva.
Yesterday I went ashore to Robinson Crusoe Resort. I ran into several sailors I’d met in other locations. The hospitality was great and the FJ$ 10.00 dinner with ham, roast beef, baked potatoes and salad was quite a good deal.
I’ll be going back ashore in a couple hours.
In all, it has been a good day and I’ve solved most of my problems. The electric auto-helm is a MUST! This is especially more important for the solo sailor.
My back is a wee bit better but I’m taking the strongest over-the-counter stuff you can buy in Fiji.
I’m going to make an early start tomorrow and hope to make Suva by tomorrow night. I may have to anchor in some untested coves or harbors.
17/May 2010 was one of the longest days of my life! Fortunately it was not one of those bad days, just long.
I awoke at 7, made myself a big breakfast as I knew it was going to be a long day. I just didn’t know how long.
I departed at 9 and headed towards Suva. I thought I could anchor in the lagoon at Mbenga Island.
With the wind right smack dab “On the nose” I had to use the engine-for the next 25 hours with no sleep---------remember, my auto-helm is not working. Part of the reason I decided to push on to Suva was the strong possibility that I can find some to fix it there.
Today is Sunday, it’ll DEFINITELY be my day of rest.
I’ll launch my dinghy and have dinner at the Royal Suva Yacht Club and trade a few lies with other Yachties.
My eyes are crossing, so I have to sign off.
18/July 2010- Sunday
I had a very long nap yesterday.
I went ashore to the RSYC (Royal Suva Yacht Club) and met “German George”. Apparently they have so many Georges here that they’ve given them a nickname based upon their ethnicity. German George turns out to be the “Go to guy” when it comes to Auto-helms, he also thinks he can replace my Windlass gypsy, what a relief that would be. He’s coming to the boat tomorrow am.
Today I’ll replace the diesel fuel I used motoring from Lautoka and buy more gasoline for the outboard and electric generator. I’ll also fix the Monitor wind-driven self-steering system. Like Steve Martin, I’m just a “Wild and crazy guy.”
I hope to catch a bus into Suva. I need to buy a wristwatch, preferably a Casio. They are cheap and completely reliable and not the target of thieves!
Oh yes, my Interphase iScan V90 depth gauge decided to foul up……………again and of course when I needed it most. The “Forward Looking” function of the unit, which was why I bought it in the first place, NEVER has worked properly. If I cannot reprogram it and get it to work right I’ll buy and externally mounted depth gauge and send the old one back to Interphase. If they can’t fix it I’ll have an interesting article to send to “Noonsite”. It is a yachties website where we share all kinds of information, good, bad and otherwise.
Suva, as usual, is rainy!
18 July, 2010- Sunday
A day of miracles! First my Auto-Helm came back to life. After 2 days of drying out I tested it this morning and it worked! I went thru the initial programming (called Commissioning) and everything worked normally. Obviously, the water that splashed on the computer “brain” of the Auto-helm was fresh water.
My best “Crewmember” “Otto” is most welcome back aboard.
Then my depth gauge came back to a semblance of life. I went back thru the programming and everything seems to be working just fine.
I refilled my diesel tanks with my “Jerry Jugs”. I then refilled the jerry jugs ashore, so Torrid is fueled and ready to go.
I also fixed my wind vane steering system, so it is now good to go.
Tomorrow I may get lucky and have my windlass gypsy replaced. That may be asking too much!
Tomorrow I must check in with Suva Customs and explain why I stopped in Suva. After that I should be free to proceed to Savusavu.
I’ve concluded that having guns on a boat are much more trouble than they are worth. I’ll be looking into ways to get them shipped back to the USA or even sell them-----but that may become a real paperwork nightmare.
I must remember to convert all of my remaining Fiji currency to Australian or American before departing for Vanuatu. Apparently even the banks will not accept Fijian Currency.
I’m still stoked about “Otto”.
18 JULY 2010
I finished filling the fuel Jerry jugs. Not cheap.
“German “George came out to the boat to check on the gypsy, he is not optimistic.
On the upside, the remote switch for the windlass seems to only be a wiring problem on the 3-way switch, easily corrected.
19 July 20, 2010- MONDAY
I went to Suva customs to report my need to stop in Suva for repairs, no problem except I have to report daily. Tomorrow I’ll report back and also prepare the papers to continue on to Savusavu.
I went to COST US LESS, the Fijian equivalent to COSTCO in the States. At least I won’t starve!
I expect to depart Suva at first light on 7/21/10. It may be another long day. Perhaps I can stop at Makogai Island (home of the giant clams and location of the former leper colony. It is a well protected anchorage.
20 July, 2010- TUESDAY.
Off to customs this am and an optimistic search for a computer battery. Why can’t they make computer batteries standard size like those for cars? That would make toooooooooooo much sense!
22 JULY, 2010-THURSDAY 0230 HOURS
No, I did not forget Wednesday, I’ve simply been too busy until now, at 0230.
I departed Suva with little difficulty. Watching a P& O cruise ship sail into Suva harbor made me a little jealous. All that luxury, pampering and great food.
I FINALLY found some good wind and am nearing Savusavu. For you Google fans, look up Koro island.
Otto has been performing like a champ! Not so my wind vane. A small repair I can handle myself.
I’ll be making arrangements to depart Fiji on Monday. In the meantime I can catch up on the internet. I’ll also start my malaria meds. What fun!
Another VERRRRRRRRRRRRRRY long day. My muscles are stiff as a plank. Who could be happier?
ADDENDUM: After I wrote the above, things started flying off the shelves. It seems a 3 am storm decided to hit and it could not have been at a worse time. To maintain control of Torrid I had to bring in the jib. Thus is an easy job when you have two people doing the work. As a solo sailor, the chore becomes much more difficult especially in the dark.
At dawn I re launched the jib and headed to Savusavu. Although clearly marked on my GPS sites I could not find the channel marker.
Out of caution, I brought down the sail again, found the outer marker and safely tied up.
I visited Customs, Immigration and the police----who are holding my guns. I made plans to depart Fiji Tuesday am. All seems in order,
Tonight I plan to sleep the sleep of the dead! Tomorrow is filled with repairs. What is new about that?
I caught up on some e-mail.
Goodnight!
24 July, 2010 SATURDAY
I made my final repairs. I will take on fuel tomorrow. Tomorrow is Sunday and most things are closed in Savusavu on Sundays. Monday will be a busy final provisioning day as well as a “reminder” visit w/ Sgt Eroni about the return of my guns. What a pain in the butt guns are.
25 July 2010 SUNDAY
Did I say I made my “final repairs” yesterday? Boy, was I wrong.
I started at 0700 looking for “little” last minute chores. It is now 1500 hrs and I think I’m about done.
I rigged a new stanchion line. It is not the “real thing” but it’ll do until I have the time and resources for the right fix. I saw that my main halyard (that’s the line that lifts the mainsail) had gotten mucked up around my spreaders, not a good thing to bother with at sea. I “un mucked the halyard and all is well.
Next I noticed that the chain on the anchor windlass was really mucked up. I could not drop my anchor if I had to. Apparently, while the windlass “expert” in Suva was trying to repair my remote control for the windlass he used a car key to see if it was working at all. He did get the windlass to work but in so doing he wrapped the chain around the windlass so tight that I could not free the chain from the windlass without having to disconnect the anchor. Not being COMPLETELY stupid, I secured the anchor to the boat with a safety line. Next, I had to unscrew one of the anchor shackles to get some movement on the chain. After several grunts and groans I “un mucked” the chain from the windlass and reattached the shackle to the anchor. So far, so good!
Next I thought it would be wise toactually test the windlass. When I stepped on the foot switch NOTHING happened. My windlass was not working. I had visions of BEGGING an electrician to come to the boat tomorrow morning (the day before my planned departure).
I decided to “think thru” the problem and try to solve it myself. At first, naturally, I thought a fuse had been blown when the “expert” overloaded the system. Then it occurred to me that there are switch plates, like fuses, near the control switch for the windlass. Upon inspection, both switch plates had opened up as they are supposed to when overloaded. I reset the switches, went forward, crossed my fingers and stepped on one of the control buttons for my windlass. VOILA’. It worked----like a champ!
Next I went to the remote switch by the steering wheel and looked at it. I had advised the “expert” that the wiring looked wrong. The ground should have been in the middle and the positive and negative on either side of the ground. I tested the remote-----------nothing happened. I changed the ground to the middle and the positive connection where the ground had been. I tested the remote switch again. SUCCESS! It worked like a champ.
By that time it was nearing 3 pm and I was getting a wee bit “knackered” (English term for “tired”) and decided it was time to update the log.
In Savusavu the yachts are moored very near shore. Across from me was a church service. In Fiji, especially on Sundays, the “Spirit” must really come on to the preachers both male and female. The services usually take 3 or more hours! In my case I had a preacher who used the term “PRAISE GOD!” at least seven (7) thousand times during his sermon. This is NOT an exaggeration!
I can say this: If a prerequisite for entry to heaven is simply being a good person and living an honest and happy life, heaven will be filled with Fijian folks.
Be aware, you white, anglo-saxon protestants, “born-again” Christians and all of you Bible-thumping rednecks and Christians of ALL sects and denominations, when, and if, you get to heaven, be prepared, you will be outnumbered by a factor of AT LEAST a Thousand to One by Brown, Black and Yellow people who have led good lives and deserve entry to Heaven!
As I write this log entry it occurs to me that I have a little more than a day remaining before I must depart Fiji. Absent the illness of my former spouse, the minimal contact with my grandchildren and the apparent continuing illness of my “Born Again” daughter, it has been one of the finest years of my life.
Do not believe the nonsense you hear about the “Coups” in Fiji. I’ve NEVER had a problem in Fiji and trust the Fijian people completely. Come to Fiji, especially the Yasawa and Mamanuca Islands. It is a MUCH better deal than plastic Hawaii and much more inexpensive than Tahiti. I LOVE Tahiti but it just costs too, too, too much.
BULA
, Cap’n Mal
26 JULY 2O10- MONDAY
I finished my fueling and bringing aboard more fresh water. Tomorrow I depart Fiji.
Just to be on the “safe” side, I went out to the Police Post to give Sgt. Eroni a written reminder of our agreement to meet at 1000 hours tomorrow to get my weapons back. Surprise! Sgt. Eroni is in Suva for the next month. You’d think he would’ve told me that on Thursday!
Well, I gave the message to a Cpl who in turn told me someone else would deliver the guns. I asked for the name of the person who would make the delivery. He gave me his name. When I remarked about it he said yet ANOTHER person would make the delivery. I got that guy’s name.
I finally decided that I’d go to the police station myself tomorrow and pay a taxi to take the policeman, myself and my guns to the dock, take the policeman out to my boat, place the guns aboard,ferry the policeman ashore and pay for his taxi back to the police station. What a pain!
I set a sheet line for my mainsail as I will “undersail” Torrid at night.
Torrid and I are ready-----I hope!
It will be nice to be back on the big blue agin,
I’ve programmed both my chartplotter and my hand-held GPS for the crossing.
Tomorrow’s entry in the log should be interesting..
27 JULY 2010, TUESDAY
Everything went smoothly this, especially because Customs was involved. They were very helpful.
I left Savusavu around 1330, then I found out that my my jib sail in bad shape. Fortunately, I have a spare but I must wait for calm conditions. The ocean is VERY rough tonight. Oh well, livin’ the dream.
Another sleepless night!
ADDENDUM: 1644 HOURS.
A Lot has happened since last night. The wind was increasing speed, my jib was about to be torn to shreds. I decided that I’d be smart to bring in the jib before it got dark. Actually, it was one of my few wise decisions.
I motored thru the night. “Otto” frequently could not cope with the heavy wind and VERRRRRRRRRY rough seas.
I passed Makengai Island, a place George and I saw giant clams. I remembered how serene the harbor is and how it would make the perfect place to switch out my shredded jib for my “Old Reliable” jib which had brought George and I to Fiji.
I turned around and went to Makengai.
The marking of channels is CLEARLY of little importance to the Fijian government. Simply put, there ARE NO CHANNEL MARKERS!
I tried the first channel which had zero markers then went around the other side of the island where I did remember an entry marker buoy. It was not in place probably because it was destroy in Cyclone Tomas------5 months ago!
I finally went back to the entry I had waypoints on and crossed my fingers.
What’s the old expression, “I’d rather be lucky than good”? I entered the lagoon.
Wisely I decided to prepare my anchor. Smart move! During the heavy weather several items in the foc’sl (forecastle, an area in the very forward portion of the boat where items you’ll never use are stored. This is where the anchor chain is also stored. The chief job of the “junk” is to shift during heavy weather thereby using your anchor chain impossible until you have crawled up into the foc’sl and removed ALL of the long neglected items who seem to be secretly admonishing you for their neglect.
Well, I “un-mucked” that mess only to find that my secondary anchor had decided to have a “tryst” with my main anchor and they were still in their lover’s embrace when I leaned over the bow to get the answer to my “Now What!” exclamation.
Well, I uncoupled the unlikely pair and tied a securing line around the secondary anchor and really, really wished to tell it : “Bad anchor, sit and stay. Bad Anchor!”
Well, I finally arrived in Makengai harbor and have been a busy little bee.
First I took down the old shredded jib. I stuck it in a corner as the Fijians ashore might want to have it as a cover for their homes or as a place to sit during their frequent Kava drinking nights, which means EVERY night.
A fine young named “Amena” paddled over to hit me up for a handout. Instead, I invited him aboard and had him help me launch my replacement jib. Trust me, it is a big job for 2 men to tackle let alone one 64 year old “geezer” like myself. I’ve done it alone before, but with Amena’s help the job was much easier.
I invited him aboard and gave him some cigarettes and a lighter. He was very happy.
I hope the Fijians come out to my boat tonight to collect the sail. I’ve really nothing to use it for myself.
The weather seems to be improving, so I’ll re-chart my trip to Vanuatu based on my unexpected stay at Makengai Island.
I’ve taken photos to be added to my BLOG whenever!
30 JULY 2010 1800 HOURS
I left Makengai Island around 1100on 29 July and headed for sea.
An unmarked and unchartered reef almost got me. I knew it was in the area because George had spotted it before. It is right in the middle of the channel.
Once I got out to sea I went below and noticed a LOT of sea water in my galley. As I cleaned it up I noticed more and more water was coming in. Obviously I felt like I was rearranging the deck on the Titanic. I had to find the SOURCE of the water.
I listened and could hear water in my lazarette. Ther theat’s the sternmost part of a boat where a lot of infrequently needed items are stored. I had to move TONS of stuff just to get into the lazarette and spent the next 3 hours bailing it out and assuring myself that I did not have a leak.
the idiot who screwed up EVERYTHING he did on my boat/? Well, this genius installed a bilge pump in my Lazarette, put the control switch on my electric panel but neglected to ate water ach the hose to a portal to actually pump the water overboard! I REALLY want to have a few unkind words with him.
But before that, my depth gauge would not start up. I quickly diagnosed and corrected the problem-----a disconnected wire done by--------------guess who?
The weather was cold, rainy and very windy. I got a couple of catnaps.t
Otto worked very well----especially when I was bailing out down below.
The weather today was more of the same--------VERY rough and difficult seas.
Late this afternoon I left Fi
31 July 31, 2010, 1839 HOURS
It seems the only time I can write in the computer is when my gas charger is charging the boat batteries.
Today was the WORST day of my crossing! It was a day from Hell! And to make matters worse, it was ALL my fault.
To all you sailors out there who want to change direction, ALWAYS come about and do not gybe unless absolutely necessary!
I have gybed on numerous occasions before, never again.
My jib got so hopelessly tangled I had to heave to, stop, and try to unmuck the lines.
The weather was blowing holy Hell with huge Seas. My efforts were in vain, the jib is ruined. It was almost like losing an old friend. Now I get to buy a new jib in Vanuatu!
I raised the Main sail only 1/3 of the way up as the winds were Very strong and the Seas are very rough indeed.
Being a solo sailor is just plain nuts. After my circumnavigation I hope to get a gig on a major cruise line. The theme would be “If you have EVER dreamed about sailing Around the World- We have to talk. If you’ve dreamed of doing it solo- we REALLY HAVE TO TALK. My advice-sail around the World on the Queen Mary or similar. You start on time, arrive on time, have no hassles with Government “Dignitaries”, the shows are entertaining, the dancers fun to watch, the service is great and the food is wonderful.
To add insult to injury, I’m sure I have one of my lines tangled in my propeller. I guess I’ll really have to be a sailor now. Hopefully when I arrive in Port Vila I can hire a diver to clear the prop. I can do it myself but not in the open ocean unless I get a dead calm day.
Tonight I have a lot of “Sea Room” around me. I’d like to sleep up on deck, but it has been “Bloody” cold!
Again making progress to Vila.
1 August , 2010, SUNDAY
I am making good progress to Port Vila. The winds are coming down and the sea is not nearly as rough.
For my sailor friends in Hawaii, the past week has been as bad as any I’ve seen in the Molokai channel.
I put the main sail up part way. It is a difficult sail to manage and I need to make a few minor adjustments and will be able to run her up to the top. In the meantime, I’m still making 6-9 knots on a direct line to Port Vila.
A word of advice to the “would be” sailor, ask yourself: “Am I a problem solver capable in most instances of diagnosing and FIXING the problem yourself?” If the answer is “No” then rent boats at fun destinations. If the answer is “Yes” go on several extended passages of at least 7-10 days. Begin to learn what sailing is truly all about. If you still wish to circumnavigate, good luck, you’ll need it.
Last night I was alarmed to find that my steering wheel had fallen off! What a surprise that was. Fortunately, OTTO was on the job and I was in no real danger. I diagnosed the problem: It seems a plastic screw holds the wheel to a metal control bar. Plastic wears out faster than metal. When the plastic screw stopped doing its job properly, the wheel literally fell off. The cure, albeit temporary, (see my previous comments about improvisation). The permanent cure is to find the right size stainless steel or bronze nut with a good lock washer and the problem should never recur. Ha, ha, ha.
I’ve been sending “OK” messages to 2 of my friends in Hawaii. These position reports and messages are available on the net.
I was going to cut away the jib, but it has become such a tangled mess I’ll have to wait for a really calm day or do it at Port Vila, much to the amusement of my fellow yachties.
To make matters more fun, I think I have a line tangled on my propeller. I can do it myself but only on a dead calm day. Probably Ill have Yacht Help in Vila arrange for a diver to come out to my boat and cut the line free.
It is even getting warmer in the evenings. I may sleep topside tonight.
2 AUGUST-4 AUGUST 2010
I have not updated my log as I have been very busy and very tired.
I was able to bring down my tattered jib after a 3 hour effort of getting it untangled and finally cut down. The remaining part of my jib is about the size of a very large slice of pizza! Obviously I’ll have to order a replacement jib when I’m in Vanuatu.
4 AUGUST 2010
I arrived at Port Vila, Vanuatu at sunrise.
I was led to an anchorage spot by the Harbor Master and was quickly cleared by the quarantine authorities. Customs was a much different story. The promised to come out to my boat at 1330. At 1430 I called them explaining that perhaps I had missed their call while working topside. They explained that they had become “too busy” to come out to my boat and would I please bring my documents and weapons with me to their office.
Their office was clear across the harbor and I was in some danger of running out of gasoline on my way back to Torrid.
For some reason, unexplained, the Immigration office was closed for the day. I was afraid that I could not go ashore until I’d cleared Immigration. Fortunately, I was granted the right to go ashore as long as I promised to clear Immigration the following day.
I went ashore, still low on gasoline and finally found the dinghy dock and an outfit called Yacht World.
I must’ve spent over an hour in their cold shower. It felt GREAT to be clean again.
5 AUGUST 2010
Port Vila is very nice and the food is 1000% better than Fiji. The prices are higher, but the quality of the goods and services make it worthwhile.
15 AUGUST 2010
It took me a good week to recover from the stressors of the crossing from Fiji.
Two nights ago I got food poisoning-bad mussels- and spent the day in bed between bouts of unpleasant bodily functions. Today, after 24 hours of the food poisoning, I feel pretty good, just a little weak.
Port Vila is a major tourist destination for Australians and New Zealanders. It is quite pleasant.
I’ve started to contact people to assist with my repairs and to help order a new jib. Once done with those repairs I’ll set sail to explore more of Vanuatu.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
SAILING WITH FRIENDS
Yesterday I took a couple of friends, Heidi and Sasha, from England, for a short sail outside Port Vila.
It reminded me of the rapairs I need to have done.
Otherwise, a beautiful sail.
It reminded me of the rapairs I need to have done.
Otherwise, a beautiful sail.
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
EARTHQUAKE UPDATE AND HIDEAWAY ISLAND
The earthquake was 7.5 not 7.2
A Tsunami WAS generated and hit Port Vila, where Torrid is moored, but it was very, very small. Thank goodness.
Today I visited Hideaway Island. Their claim to fame is that they have the World's only underwater post office. I sent 3 postcards.
The diving was about 1/10 as good as Fiji. The "beach" at Hideaway was VERY rough coral rubble with no sand. Not high on my choices of places to revisit.
I hope to take some new friends sailing tomorrow.
Apparently I'll need to visit an internet cafe to upload some new photos. Will do ASAP.
A Tsunami WAS generated and hit Port Vila, where Torrid is moored, but it was very, very small. Thank goodness.
Today I visited Hideaway Island. Their claim to fame is that they have the World's only underwater post office. I sent 3 postcards.
The diving was about 1/10 as good as Fiji. The "beach" at Hideaway was VERY rough coral rubble with no sand. Not high on my choices of places to revisit.
I hope to take some new friends sailing tomorrow.
Apparently I'll need to visit an internet cafe to upload some new photos. Will do ASAP.
EARTHQUAKE!!!!!!!!!!!
Yesterday afternoon I experienced a VERRRRRRRRRRRRY scary earthquake in Vanuatu.
It was reported as a 7.2 and the epicenter was a mere 25 miles away from Port Vila.
It was a real rock and roll show, believe me!
No major damage was done and NO TSUNAMI was generated. There would've been NO time to respond anyway.
All is well here and Torrid is fine.
Vanuatu is a major hot spot on the Pacific Rim of Fire.
WOW- WHAT A RIDE!
It was reported as a 7.2 and the epicenter was a mere 25 miles away from Port Vila.
It was a real rock and roll show, believe me!
No major damage was done and NO TSUNAMI was generated. There would've been NO time to respond anyway.
All is well here and Torrid is fine.
Vanuatu is a major hot spot on the Pacific Rim of Fire.
WOW- WHAT A RIDE!
Thursday, August 5, 2010
SAFE ARRIVAL IN VANUATU
I safely arrived at Port Vila, Vanuatu 48 hours ago.
The crossing was VERY ROUGH and this is the first I've been able to use the internet with a fully functioning brain! I was dead-dog tired but I've gotten some good rest and have started to move around again.
Torrid was battered by a 3 day storm and I managed to destroy my jib! I'll need to buy a new one.
The old jib was truly worn out, so after I left Savusavu I pulled into Makogai Island and gave the sail to the village. They could use the remaining good canvas to cover their roofs or use it as a sitting mat for their Kava drinking ceremonies.
A young Fijian helped me put up my old jib that I had used on my trip from Hawaii to Fiji. You may recall that that jib had been damaged before arriving in Fiji and repaired in Savusavu.
I hit a 3 day storm and my jib wound up completely shredded. All that remains is a piece about the size of a large slice of pizza! I used mu main sail for the rest of the trip.
My automatic pilot "Otto" did a very good job.
Port Vila is beautiful and has many more facilities than Fiji. The food has been just absolutely wonderful. The prices are a little higher than Fiji, but from what I've seen, so far, WELL worth it!
Torrid is battered but not broken. I'm starting the "easy" repairs and will work my way up to the more difficult ones as time and my stamina allow.
If you've EVER dreamed of sailing around the World, we have to talk. If you've dreamed of doing it solo, we REALLY HAVE TO TALK.
The crossing was VERY ROUGH and this is the first I've been able to use the internet with a fully functioning brain! I was dead-dog tired but I've gotten some good rest and have started to move around again.
Torrid was battered by a 3 day storm and I managed to destroy my jib! I'll need to buy a new one.
The old jib was truly worn out, so after I left Savusavu I pulled into Makogai Island and gave the sail to the village. They could use the remaining good canvas to cover their roofs or use it as a sitting mat for their Kava drinking ceremonies.
A young Fijian helped me put up my old jib that I had used on my trip from Hawaii to Fiji. You may recall that that jib had been damaged before arriving in Fiji and repaired in Savusavu.
I hit a 3 day storm and my jib wound up completely shredded. All that remains is a piece about the size of a large slice of pizza! I used mu main sail for the rest of the trip.
My automatic pilot "Otto" did a very good job.
Port Vila is beautiful and has many more facilities than Fiji. The food has been just absolutely wonderful. The prices are a little higher than Fiji, but from what I've seen, so far, WELL worth it!
Torrid is battered but not broken. I'm starting the "easy" repairs and will work my way up to the more difficult ones as time and my stamina allow.
If you've EVER dreamed of sailing around the World, we have to talk. If you've dreamed of doing it solo, we REALLY HAVE TO TALK.
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