PREPARING TO GO SNORKELING

Namena island, Fiji. WOW!!! Great snorkeling. Beautiful beach.

FOLLOW YOUR DREAM

It has occured to me that I left Hawaii to follow my dream a scant two months ago. The first month was spent sailing to Fiji and a good part of the second month has been spent making repairs. My point, however, is; My dream is coming true.
Ever since I learned to sail at age 18 and after crewing on a schooner for the summer after high school and after crewing on another schooner from Hawaii to San Pedro, California that same summer, it has been my deep and abiding dream to 'ONE DAY' own my own sailboat and sail around the World.
I know I have bored a tremendous number of people by discussing this dream. I know more than a couple of romantic relationships which have suffered and/or ended because of my continued desire to fulfill my dream. To those of you who were kind enough to listen to my tall tales---my apologies for boring you. For those of you who were kind and/or smart enough to break up our romantic relationship thus allowing me to pursue my dream unfettered with notions of guilt or abandonment---Thank you-----very much.
Pursuing this goal has caused stress and upheaval in my life. Presumably it has caused upset feelings in others including family, lovers and close friends. But my point is this: This is MY dream and I intend to make it come true. I must live my life for myself. I cannot and will not live the remainder of my life trying to please others. I have discharged my familial obligations as best I could. I had custody of and raised three children with the marvelous help of my second wife.
I faithfully discharged my duties to my clients for 34 years.
With my dream I may try and fail but I'll be damned if I'll fail to try.
Ask yourself: What is my dream?
Ask yourself: What am I doing to make that dream come true.
Don't fail to try. Be true to yourself, follow your dream.
At sea- on the way to Suva, Fiji. 30 June 2009.
Cap'n Mal (de Mer)

GIANT CLAMS

Here is a pic taken at Maokai island where GIANT clams are grown for relocating to touristy dive sites.

CLAM CHOWDER FOR EVERYONE!

Today I visited Makogai island. Giant clams are grown there and relocated to touristy dive sites.

I was lucky enough to sneak up on one and have George take a picture before it darted away. Ha ha.

The island used to house all of the lepers in the South Pacific. Once leprosy was cured/ controlled and no longer communicable, island facilities fell into disrepair due to disuse. Thank goodness.

It reminded me of my visits to the Hawaiian leprosy facility located at Kaulapapa on the isalnd of Molokai. During my visits there, sponsored by a very colorful and fun guy named "Boogie", the so-called and self-appointed "Mayor" of Kaulapapa, I came to admire and respect the few remaining Hansen's disease sufferers who bore their condition with a quiet grace and dignity that was totally alien to my experience.

Indeed, most of us fret over that which we don't have. Those brave souls, religious or not, bore their fate in life with grace and serenity.

Sharks? Sharks? We don't need no stinkin' sharks!

Today I sailed to the lovely little island of Namena. It is reputed to be loaded with "friendly" hammerheads. George and I went snorkeling and didn't see any sharks at all.

We did have a GREAT bit of snorkeling in some very beautiful water. The reef was the prettiest diving I've seen so far in Fiji and that is saying a lot!

The island is private and a sign clearly states "No trespassing" George wants to try to get them to buy our fish and invite us to dinner anyway.

The picture is of a VERY nice, big Wahoo we got while we were still inside Savusavu Bay. In Hawaii it is called an "Ono". Ono also happens to be the Hawaiian word for "good" or "tasty". Trust me, these fish do taste great.

Tomorrow it is off to visit an island where giant clams are raised.

Bouma Waterfall

Bouma Waterfall.

WE GOTTA GET OUT OF THIS PLACE

Even if it is the last thing we ever do!
The sails are delivered, installed and ready to use. Food, fuel and water are aboard and a course laid in for departure tomorrow (Sunday in FIJI).
I expect a short sail to an island noted for diving with friendly hammerhead sharks. I hope my professional courtesy still applies even though I'm a retired lawyer.
I hope to have some more pictures and apologize for not adding any new photos, but there has been literally NOTHING happening in Savusavu.
Here is a photo I took while on Taveuni. It is of the first waterfall at Bouma. Quite beautiful.

OH LORD, STUCK IN 'OL SAVUSAVU AGAIN!

With deference to Credence Clearwater Revival.
We sailed back to Savusavu from Dolfin Bay yesterday. I had experienced anchoring problems while at Dolfin Bay and got to go SCUBA dving FOUR MORE TIMES, unfortunately all of the dives were spent clearing the anchor problems. Yes, the problem got solved, but not without two very anxious nights in very shallow water with strong on-shore winds.
I loved Dolfin Bay. But as must be true with every paradise, Dolfin Bay had its own snake. In this case it had to do with a fairly poor anchorage compounded with a strong prevailing on-shore breeze.
The sail back to Savusavu started out slowly and quickly built into a pretty fast and furious ride. I was sailing only with my jib and still managed to see 11.4 knots on my GPS at one time. To the uninitiated, that speed, with the size and weight of Torrid, coupled with the fact that only one sail was up is impressive-----sometimes scary. Fortunately the wind ebbed a little and we were able to run down-wind all the way to Savusavu Bay.
A dinner guest came aboard about 4 pm in the form of a 20# Mahimahi. YUM!
Sorry, no pictures as things were pretty knarly for most of the trip.
I hope to leave to head towards Suva by Friday.

PHOTOS OF GEORGE

Here are a few photos of George. I'm sure his mother and sister will appreciate them.

ALMOST HEAVEN

I might not make it to heaven but I now know what it looks like!
I started the day by going on two fabulous SCUBA dives at the "Great White Wall" with the Dolfin Bay Divers.
Sadly, I did not take my camera as I knew it was going to be a challenging dive. The current was very swift. I have a new appreciation for the saying: "Just go with the flow." You really have no choice. The fish, soft corals and hard corals are beyond description. This is a great dive area but it is NOT for the novice or timid.
After the dive and lunch I treated myself to a wonderful 1 1/2 hour massage, outside, under the coconut trees, with exotic birds occasionally calling in the distance and a wafting breeze keeping the temperature perfect.
It wasn't heaven, but I'm sure heaven has used this place as a template.

MORE DIVING PICTURES

Here are a few more pictures taken while snorkeling in Dolfin Bay, Fiji.

SKIN DIVING IN DOLFIN BAY

This morning George and I did a little more skin diving in Dolfin Bay.

I made a few adjustments on my camera and the photos came out MUCH better.

The first photo is of some small, beautiful, bright blue-green Damsel fish. When you get close they retreat into the coral head. Shortly thereafter they re-emerge. They seem more curious about the diver than the diver is about them.

In the second photo I'm holding a dead "Giant" clam shell. This one died as a youngster.

DOLFIN BAY

The little Bay where Dolfin Bay Divers is located is very pretty but quite unprotected from any serious wind or storms. Make sure you come here when the weather forecast is good.

Here is a shot of my dinghy ashore at Dolfin Bay.

FIJI WEDDING

Yesterday George and I sailed to a diving resort known as Dolfin Bay Divers. The hosts were quite gracious.

The snorkeling was very good but I did not take my camera as the weather was cloudy.

We were lucky enough to be invited to a wedding. Here is a picture of the couple. The Bride wore white. The other Bride wore white. Oh, well, "When in Rome...."

Remembering Taveuni

I had so looked forward to visiting Taveuni. It seemed, as I had read, an idyllic island paradise.
Taveuni is many things; beautiful, exotic, remote, quiet, serene and charming. It is perhaps paradise to some. It is undoubtedly beautiful to all, but it was not all that I had been led to believe and, sadly, to expect.
Do not misunderstand me. Come to Taveuni, enjoy its charms and relish in the joy of life those lucky enough to live here seem to have. Enjoy the natural beauty. The Government of Fiji was very wise to make most of the East Coast of Taveuni a National Park or preserve. It is stunning and primitive. Often while walking to the waterfall yesterday I thought that this is what our ancient earth must have looked like before the Rise of Man.
Perhaps as we search out our own "Heaven on Earth" we need to be more open minded as to what we see, hear and do and not rely so much on the opinions of others. They have made their own observations through different eyes and with different prespectives.
I will continue my own personal quest to find my own "Nirvana". I hope I've learned some valuable lessons in attaining my goal from my visit to Taveuni.

SUNSET 6/18/09 TAVEUNI, FIJI

Another stunning sunset.

May I never take them for granted.

LAUNDRY DAY IN SOMOSOMO, TAVEUNI, FIJI

No explanation necessary for this photo.

$ 3.00 HAIRCUT

A quiet day today which had started with a torrential downpour.

George and I hitched into Somosomo where I had a haircut for $ 5.00 Fijian--roughly $ 2.75 US. What do you think?

PORTRAIT OF AN AGING HITCH HIKER

Here is a picture taken during a hitched ride to the waterfall on Taveuni. I'm in the back of a van, sitting on a battery box and having my back, kidneys and knee crunched on every bump. All eleven million of them.

Oh well, hitch hikers can't be choosers.

TAVENUI WATERFALL

After skin-diving this morning I had the bright idea to go see one of Tavenui's beautiful waterfalls.

George and I hitch-hiked and walked a LOOOOOOOOOOOONG way.

We rode with a few Fijian fellows along a kidney bashing, bone jarring road.

Finally, we came to the entry to the trail. There are a series of 3 waterfalls. Unfortunately, my knee decided that it only wanted to go as far as the first waterfall. Fortunately for the reader you may enjoy a fine photo I took.

The ride back was via taxi but was still a rather bumpy ride.

In all, I wouldn't have changed a thing about today.

It might have been arduous but it was worth the effort.

SKIN DIVING

This morning George and I did a little skin diving here in Mataei Bay, Teveuni, Fiji. The diving was very good---I've had better. George spotted a sea snake which made the whole morning worth while.

I did test out my underwater housing for my camera. The pictures did not come out great as this was the first time I've ever taken underwater pictures. The picture is of me holding a couple bright blue starfish.

Last night we found a restaurant and I gave the owner our 2 tuna and 1 Mahimahi. He made up a plate of sashimi for me, a pasta dinner for George and a piece of the Mahimahi for me. All at no charge. I'm sure he got the better end of the deal and I was glad to share and develop a new friend.

FRESH FISH ANYONE ?

George and I caught these fish on the way to Taveuni. We threw a Barracuda back--no more Ciguatera poisoning thank you.

ON TO TAVEUNI

It looks as though I'll finally land in Taveuni. It is 1330 hrs and I', 8 miles off the bay at Matei.

I tried to get there yesterday but ran out of time. I didn't want to try the sometimes dangerous Somosomo passage in the dark so I spent a quiet night at a place called Fawn Harbor.

Fawn harbor is very quiet and I'm surprised it isn't used more as it is a very deep and wide harbor. I guess it is because so few people live on that part of the island.

Skin diving is supposed to be great and I'm looking forward to using the Hookah dive system and taking underwater pictures to show.

George caught two small tuna on the way to Taveuni so we'll try to get a restaurant to whip us up their version of sashimi in exchange for the rest of the fish. Who knows? You don't get what you don't ask for.

Here is a picture George took of me as I was watching the boys butchering the pig the other day.

SAILING TO TAVEUNI---AT LAST

Today we left Savusavu for Taveuni island. I got a late start si I have stopped for the night at a little bay called Fawn Harbor. Try to find that on Google Earth.

Actually, it is quite pretty although there is no reason I can see to launch the dinghy and go ashore. I AM AMAZED that I have internet service here.

Yesterday I watched some boys as they scraped and cleaned a pig they had just killed. Some very hot geothermal springs are in Savusavu but they are not pretty in the least.

Nearby was a school which had an interesting sign. I must say, I couldn't agree more.

HOW IS YOUR GLASS?

Is your glass half empty or half full?
I have observed Fijians enjoying the company of each other while sharing a beer. I do mean literally SHARING a beer. Usually 4-6 Fijians will sit down and have a pleasant conversation. A small portion of beer will then be poured into a small glass, about the size of a small fruit juice glass we are served when we order a SMALL glass of orange juice with our breakfast. About 1/4 to 1/3 of the glass is filled with beer. The glass is then passed by the person responsible for pouring the beer to one of the drinkers who consumes the beer at a leisurely pace. A similar amount of beer is again dispensed and the glass is passed along to the next participant. Eventually, everyone drinks from the same glass and the process is repeated until the bottle is empty.
No one gulps down more than another and the pace of consumption is, as I have said, leisurely. Only one glass is ever used by the participants reggardless of their number. The designated dispenser usually does not drink but makes sure the glass is passed along fairly to each drinker. No one is seen to become beligerent or combative. The soft conversation is punctuated with laughter.
I used to think of my glass as half empty or half full. It seems to me that the Fijians are quite happy to simply see that their glass "Is".

PREPARING TO SAIL AWAY

Today, Friday 6/12/09 was spent preparing to leave Savusavu for Taveuni Island. Most of the repairs have been completed but the main sail is not ready yet. I will have to return to Savusavu to pick it up. As it turns out, I have to return to Savusavu anyway in order to check out and proceed South. The customs folks have some very odd rules and if you accidentally violate one of them it will result in a very stiff fine. You really must cross the "T"s and dot the "I"s.

Taveuni promises to be more senic and is said to have some great diving. I'm anxious to take some underwater pictures for the blog.

This afternoon George ran into Rakeesh, the Indian gentleman who invited us to lunch. George had prepared a very nice DVD of our visit with still and video clips of Rakeesh and his delightful wife and children. I think this will become a family treasure. Here is a picture of Rakeesh aboard Torrid.

Today, I was again humbled by the quiet dignity of the Fijians. At least 25% of the people I saw in town were shoeless yet they were not embarassed and others did not act superior.

We Americans are truly blessed, yet how very few of us count our blessings instead of bemoaning that which we don't have? A lesson in humility was learned be me today. These are good people, going about their lives playing the cards which have been dealt them and not complaining about what they don't have.

REMEMBERING MY FATHER

This evening I was treated to another spectacular sunset which I'm happy to share.

A little float plane is in the foreground.

While taking the photos I remembered how my father used to love to take photographs of sunsets while we were living on Guam. Some of his pictures, taken with a 35mm SLR camera and presented on slides were quite stunning. I'm sure he enjoyed sharing his photos with his family in Minnesota. I'm honored to carry on the tradition.

Today was relatively quiet as I am still awaiting my sails. However, I was able to have my refrigeration brought up to speed--as well as could be expected. I had all of the worn hose clamps on my engine replaced. I was also able to find and fix the source of the fuel leak in my starboard fuel tank. Apparently the young man who installed the system in Hawaii failed to tighten a connection properly.

I also lubricated 4 of my winches, one of which had frozen. I'm happy to state that all the serviced winches are working very smoothly and can be turned by the pressure of one finger.

Curly

The resident "Go to" guy in Savusavu is Curly, a Kiwi who seems to have all the connections in Fiji. His help in getting repairs done on Torrid has been outstanding. Here is a picture of Curly presiding over an informal desert contest held at the Savusavu Yacht Club.

For visiting "Yachties" it is imperative they meet with Curly. Frankly, Curly is so outgoing and helpful that it would be practically impossible for them NOT to meet him.

Hats off to "Curly"

First hot shower

After nearly a month at sea it was quite refreshing to FINALLY enjoy a hot shower.

The genius who installed my new engine in Hawaii neglected to hook up the hot water hose from my engine. Cold, sea water showers are the rule, especially on long passages as fresh water is the most precious commodity on board.

Nevertheless, George was relieved to not have to be constantly upwind from me.

A quiet Monday

Today was quite lazy as I'm awaiting parts and the return of my sails.
I did manage to start up my Hookah diving compressor for the first time. It promises to make diving an exceptional experience.
The photo is of George with his barracuda. I mislabeled an earlier picture and identified a tuna as a barracuda.
Yes, I know the difference. I guess I was in a rush.

Hungarian friends in Fiji

Trust George to make new friends everywhere. He managed to meet the only 2 other Hungarians in Fiji. Actually, they are Americans who were born in Hungary but were raised to speak fluent Hungarian and have remained in contact with their families in Hungary.

George and I were treated to an authentic Hungarian dinner last night.

George was in charge of helping rescuue information from their computer.

I was in charge of teaching their dog how to behave properly around people.

By the end of the evening the computer recovery program was humming along, the dog had come a long way towards becoming a "Good dog" and the meal was a great hit.

The picture was taken near sunset from their patio.

BEAUTIIFUL SUNSET AT SAVUSAVU

June 6, 2009. This one is a beaut!

Lunch with Satish

Today George and I had lunch with a wonderful Indian family.

I cannot begin to describe how wonderful the entire family was.

Although by USA standards these folks are VERY poor, nevertheless they were happy, the children were very well behaved and they smiled and laughed constantly.

I was truly humbled by the strength of character this family has. They are willing to give as much as they have and ask nothing in return.

George related very well with the children and they were especially entertained by the pictures we took of them and they took of each other with my camera.

Here is a picture of this wwonderful man and his children.

TRIP TO LABASSA

Yesterday George and I took a bus to the main business town of Labassa.

The bus ride was very long but interesting and productive. I was able to purchase an internet access thumbdrive and pre-paid for 6 months of service. So far the system has worked very well.

On the bus I saw a very cute Fijian boy. His picture is added to this page.

Labassa is NOT a tourist Mecca but it is efficient.

George hitch-hiked back to Savusavu and got us invited to lunch with an Indian family the following day. It is the subject of the next entry.

Movie post

I'm going to try to post a short movie. It may not work with this slow wireless system, but we'll see----or not

First step ashore at Savusavu

This is a pic of my first grateful step ashore at Savusavu.

Survivor smile

Here is a picture of my "Survivor smile" taken the morning after our big storm at sea.

George with Yellowfin Tuna

The new system seems to be working well.

Here is a picture of George with a Yellowfin tuna he caught.

The fish was delicious. It was the first fish he ever killed and cleaned.

Now online 24/7

I have now been able to get internet service 24/7, wireless and on board Torrid!!

Updates should now be done on a more consistent basis.

I'll send a picture with this update.

I'll try to send one of my favorite sunset.

Cap'n Mal