LEAVING ESPIRITU SANTO

Today I am preparing to leave Espiritu Santo Island and sail to Pentecost, Ambrym and Epi Isalnds before sailing back to Port Vila.

I have had a wonderful time with Dianne on Santo. She is joining me on the trip back to Vila. I hope she enjoys the trip as much as I do.

Santo is an odd mixture of very, very old and up to date modern. It is common to see ni-Vans (natives of Vanuatu) who live practically the same stone age lifestyle as their recent ancestors yet industriously chatting on their cell phones or laptop computers.

Today I'll get my autopilot back and ship it off to the manufacturer in the States. I'm a bit upset that I have lost two weeks by allowing a local to try and fix it. Oh, well, welcome to the South Pacific!

Hopefully I can add pictures to my blog once I get back to Port Vila. In the meantime I'll have to do a Santo-Vila log. I hope to take lots of pictures.

WORLD WAR II SITES

Today I went on a tour of several sites used by the US/Australian and New Zealand armed forces during World War II.

I was saddened to visit the ruins of the hospital where the wounded, injured and sick were brought after such epic battles as Guadacanal. Thinking how many of those brave young men and women put so much at risk to defend their countries gave me a new found respect for them. I enjoy the blessings of freedom which they defended often to their deaths. I again wondered whether my uncle Phillip was ever here on Espiritu Santo Island.

In the next couple of days I'll sail to Pentecost Island. Afterwards I'll try to land at Ambryn and Epi islands before heading back to Port Vila.

Dianne has bravely decided to accompany me. I hope she enjoys the passage. So far she has been an outstanding trooper. Life is good!

AORE ISLAND RESORT

Yesterday Dianne and I went over to Aore Island Resort. The boat shuttle from Luganville was free and well organized.

The resort is beautiful and idyllic. It is directly across the Segond Channel from Luganville. There is no surge and the water is crystal clear. Kayaks are free to use as are the bicycles.

The resort is an idyllic spot to really relax and unwind.

In a few days we will sail from Espiritu Santo to Pentecost Island thence to Ambryn Island and Epi Island and finally back to Port Vila, Vanuatu.

I have decided to take Torrid back to Fiji where I'll put her in a slip for safe storage during the cyclone season. Afterward I'll fly to Australia and tour about until April 2011.

Next year I'll sail thru Indonesia, Malayasia and eventually Thailand where I'll put Torrid in for interior work. She needs storage cabinets and bookshelves.

Right now I'm still hoping that my auto-pilot gets repaired. I'm now promised "tomorrow". I've heard that promise before-----------many, many, many times.

BEACH GLASS

Yesterday Dianne and I went out for a day sail. Torrid and Di checked out beautifully. My repairman failed to show up the other day to install my auto pilot. Hopefully he will arrive early tomorrow to complete the job. Getting things done in the South Pacific requires patience, lots of patience.

Today we went back to the beach where the USS Calvin Coolidge was run aground after striking a "friendly" mine. Unfortunately, or fortunately, it later slipped off the reef and sank in relatively shallow water. Dianne and I snorkled out to the bouy that marked the bow. The water was too murky to see anything. Darn !

The beach is LOADED with beach glass presumably from the Coolidge. I had to stop collecting glass after 30 minutes as my back pack was getting too heavy. The glass was white, aqua, blue, green and brown. It was all well worn and beautiful. I have a "plan" to incorporate it into a coffee table when and if I become a landlubber again.

I barely scratched the surface of the available beach glass. Nobody else seems to bother! Sadly, I also saw bits and pieces of plates and cups which no doubt came from the Coolidge.

As a tribute to the Captain, he was able to save all of the personnel aboard the ship except two who were killed when the ship struck the mine. Sometimes running your boat aground is a mark of good seamanship!

PHOTO PROBLEMS

I seem to be unable to upload photos as the internet is extremely slow here in Vanuatu. As soon as I reach an area where the net is faster I'll put photos on my earlier entries.

Bear with me.

Today I hope to have my auto pilot reinstalled. I REEEEEEEEEEEEALLY hope it works.

I'll be making preparations to sail to Pentecost Island in a little over a week.

So far I have enjoyed Espiritu Santo except for the fact that is much more expensive than Fiji.

CHAMPAGNE BEACH AND OYSTER ISLAND RESORT

Today Dianne and I visited Oyster Island Resort. It has an idyllic setting and a very nice yacht anchorage.

Next we went to Champagne Beach which is truly beautiful. It has powdery white sand and absolutely no surge or swell.

As the water was crystal clear Dianne and I decided to do some snorkeling. I came across a "Crown of Thorns" starfish. This is an ugly animal that devours coral and is a scourge in the Pacific. I decided to be a nice guy and try to put the critter up on the beach where it would die. I carefully picked it up with a broken piece of coral and moved it towards shore. When I tried to lift it out of the water it rolled backwards on the coral and stung the hell out of my left wrist.

Sadly, it lived. Happily, so did I albeit in a lot of discomfort.

No good deed goes unpunished.

MILLION DOLLAR POINT

At the end of WWII the Americans began to leave Vanuatu and their huge military installations in Luganville on Espiritu Santo Island. Soon it became apparent that shipping all of the equipment and supplies back to the States would be too expensive.

The solution was to dump jeeps, trucks, weapons, ammunitions and almost everything else into the ocean! The location became known as "Million Dollar Point" although I'm sure several millions of dollars of US equipment were discarded into the Sea.

Today one can easily go snorkeling and see the remnants of this waste.

Why these goods were not given to the people of Vanuatu, excluding the weapons and ammunition of course, escapes me.

Nearby is the site where the USS Calvin Coolidge sank after striking a "friendly" mine. Today it is considered one of the best wreck dives in the World. The Coolidge had been a luxury liner built during the 1930's and converted into a troop ship at the start of the war.

To his credit, the Captain of the Coolidge tried to beach the vessel and all but two persons were able to wade ashore. Two people did die, but hundreds of GIs got safely ashore before the Coolidge slid off the reef into deep water and sank.

There is a memorial nearby dedicated to the Captain of the USS Calvin Coolidge.

MILLENIUM CAVE CUSTOM FACE PAINT

Before you enter Millenium Cave for the first time it is a Melanesian custom to have paint applied to your face to show respect for the spirits of the cave.

Sala, my guide, explained that the symbols represent the birds and bats in the cave as well as the boulders and the zig zag course you must take.

Failing or refusing to have your face painted invites injury-----or worse.

In my case, as usual, I respected the customs of the land I was visiting.

I was NOT injured.

It was a very dangerous and arduous adventure. See my log of Saetember 13, 2010.

VANUATU LOG AUGUST 4-SEPTEMBER 14, 2010

As promised, here is my log of events I have experienced in Vanuatu since my arrival on 4 August 2010. Today is 14 September and I'm in Luganville on Espiritu Island in Vanuatu.

I expect to upload photos soon.




VANUATU LOG


4 August 2010- 23 August 2010

It has been a wonderful time. What more can I say?

I arrived at Port Vila, Vanuatu the morning of 4 August 2010. I was extremely tired after the crossing from Fiji.

After arrival I was met by Quarantine officers and directed to an anchorage. I was quickly cleared. Customs was another matter. Although technically they are supposed to board your vessel, they said that they were “too busy” and asked me to come over to their office, with my documents and my weapons. After a long dinghy ride across the harbor I finally cleared in with customs.

I can say that bringing weapons on a boat it a BAD idea! I’m trying to make arrangements to have my weapons shipped back to the States and put in storage! I may have a buyer for my rifle, but as handguns are strictly forbidden in Vanuatu, I could not sell them if I wanted to.

The Immigration office was closed, for some unexplained reason. I was granted permission to go ashore as long as I agreed to clear Immigration the following day.

I went ashore and had a VERY long shower. I began to feel somewhat human again.

I met a really nice guy who took me to his travel agency so I could use the internet and check my e-mail and let everyone know that I’d arrived safely.

I had met a very special lady when I was still in Fiji. As we had a really great time together, albeit too short, I asked her to meet me in Vanuatu and she agreed!

As it turned out, her flight from OZ was due in late the same evening. Fortunately, I was able to meet her at the airport.

Dianne and I had a wonderful time in Vanuatu. Her pictures appear in my BLOG.

Vanuatu is a “magic” place with almost a frontier aura. It is more expensive than Fiji, but the food is 1,000% better. Most items are readily available and the hardware stores are well-stocked.

I did have an episode of food-poisoning, bad mussels, and spent 24 hours in bed. I had shared the same food with Dianne the night before, but after a “Technicolor yawn”(an Australian euphemism for vomiting) I discovered the mussels as the culprit. Then I remembered that the ONE thing Dianne did not share were the mussels.

I have found that the people of Vanuatu (they calls themselves the Ni-Vanuatu) are nice enough, but not nearly as outgoing and friendly as the Fijians. I’ve learned, to my disappointment, that they are not as honest and trustworthy as the Fijians. One must take care not to leave ANYTHING of value unattended. One of my first purchases was a lock to chain my outboard motor to my dinghy.

Dianne and I explored Port Vila and had a great time. We visited Eton Beach and Blue Hole, truly one of the prettiest beaches I’ve ever seen. We also visited Mele Cascades which were amazing. Photos of each appear in my BLOG. We went snorkeling at Hideaway Resort- a bit disappointing, poor snorkeling, no beach- unless you count sharp, broken coral rubble as a “beach”.

The BIG excitement came when Dianne and as I were visiting Iririki Island Resort. We were struck by a 7.5 earthquake with an epicenter a mere 25 miles away. Believe me, it was VERY SCARY. We made it to high ground in case a Tsunami had been generated. Fortunately, only a very small, non-destructive Tsunami was generated. Torrid was fine.

Dianne brought a “care package” from Australia, including a part for my windlass. After much struggle and effort I installed it yesterday, 22 August, 2010. Today I plan to “stress test” the windlass to make sure it will work when I need it.

Torrid is in need of repairs-what’s new? I also need to buy a replacement Jib. Finally, my depth gauge is not working- what’s new?

Today, 23 August 2010 I will clean the boat bottom and hope that the problem with my depth finder is just an accumulation of crud on the transducer.

I expect to be in Port Vila for a few more weeks as I need to complete repairs before I venture too far.

I hope to then sail north to Luganville on Espiritu Santo Island. Hopefully, Dianne will join me there for more fun and exploring! Diving is supposed to be great with a “wreck” dive on the USS President Coolidge, an American troop transport sunk by a “friendly mine” in Luganville harbor during WWII.

24 AUGUST, 2010

Yesterday everything I tried to fix, I only made worse. Just one of those days, I guess. You’d think I’d learn after a while and just quit and wait for another day. But, NOOOOOOOOOOOO, not me. I finally quit at 9 pm when I fouled up changing batteries. Changing batteries?????? How bad could I do?
Yacht one of my best friends!

Today I found and raised my stay-sail, so at least I have a main and type of head sail.

I also discovered an old sail buried in the depths of my foc’sl ( forecastle-that is the farthest inside pointy end of a sailboat). I’m hoping that upon inspection tomorrow that it will turn out to be an old, long forgotten jib. We’ll see.

Still, no joy on fixing my depth-finder. It looks like I’ll have to hire someone to do some electrical repairs.



30 AUGUST 2010- MONDAY

In the cruising life there is good and good enough. Living and cruising on a limited fixed income, I have learned to subscribe to the “good enough” approach to living and cruising.

There is merit to the argument of many cruisers who have adopted the attitude that only “factory specific” repairs are acceptable. I envy these people because they obviously have a LOT more money than me. They can afford to send off for the “right” parts, regardless of the cost and air freight. I, on the other hand, must subscribe to the “good enough” approach to yacht maintenance and repair. If a repair comes to my attention, as they do daily, I must weigh the cost of a “proper” repair versus what I can realistically afford----and still be able to eat. Practicality has become the order of the day.

I have become, of necessity, a jack of all trades but sadly, a master of none. Persistence, is a virtue. I have become a VERY persistent person. When problems arise I try to think them through and come up with an economical solution. I have found that simply thnking about a problem for a day or two will generally lead me to a solution, not necessarily a “factory specific” solution, but a solution that will work and will suffice.

Another yachtie gave me his copy of Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. I identified with the author right away. He had his own approach to solving problems which matched my own. He is a “Do it yourselfer” who firmly believes in the concept that you must watch out for yourself and not blindly surrender your repair needs to so called “experts”.

Today I went all over Port Vila and found the equipment I needed to make several repairs on Torrid. My “High Water” alarm is fixed. My wind driven auto-pilot is fixed and ready for reinstallation. My anchor is ready for resetting and my fuel on-loading is progressing.

“Rome was not built in a day”. You cannot anticipate EVERY repair need before you set off on a cruising voyage. At best, you can hope for the best, plan for the worst and hope that somehow you’ll wind up somewhere in the middle.

Tomorrow brings a few more repairs and fueling. I hope my generator gets fixed by my “expert” soon. It is important to also recognize your limitations!

31 AUGUST 2010, 1345 HOURS

The skies are pregnant with rain, though little has actually fallen----so far.

I have discovered, to my delight, that my sail I discovered in my foc’sl appears to be a jib which seems to be a good shape.

My fuel tanks are full and my only “hold” in Port Vila is for my portable generator. I will probably have to come back to Vila after Santo. I’ll need to do so anyway in order to check out of the country and recover my damned guns!

I’m still undecided about my destination after Vanuatu. New Caledonia beckons. If
I go to New Cal I’ll probably have to go to New Zealand or back to Fiji for the cyclone season. My other choice is to head north and eventually reach Thailand.

Australia is also an option, but the Australian entry requirements for yachties is somewhat “pissy” i.e., Australia is not “Yachtie friendly”, especially for non-Australian boats.

Port Vila is a remarkable study in contrasts. On the one hand the people are simple and dress rather poorly. Although they do not seem outwardly intelligent, nevertheless you will see them using the ubiquitous cell-phone (referred to as a “Mobi” or Mobile Phone here). Today I saw a young man with an i-Pod. He was barefoot, had his shirt on inside out, was wearing obviously very old shorts but was happily listening to his music. More power to him! He seemed happy.

The Ni-Vanuatu are not nearly as outwardly friendly as the Fijians, but with a little smile and perhaps a nice word or two I seem to be able to “break the ice” and get them to open up to me.

As I see it, the people of Vanuatu, at least on Port Vila, the capital and largest “city”, are barely past “first contact” with the Western World and are having reasonable and predictable problems with their adjustment, if not acceptance, to the influence of the outside World.

Vanuatu seems a land of vast opportunity! It is rich with fertile soil as well as mineral wealth. It has barely been touched. Yes, there are nice cattle ranches and some mineral resources are being extracted, but, for the most part, Vanuatu is well below its “Western World” level of productivity. God help them if the Chinese “discover” Vanuatu.

5 SEPTEMBER 2010 1630 HOURS

I have stayed in Port Vila an extra two days as the weather has been somewhat rough. I’ve found, through hard learned experience, that it is far better to wait for a decent “weather window” than risk getting beat up at sea. It is one thing to sit out a day or two of nasty weather while comfortably at anchor versus getting pounded out at sea.

Last night my dinghy motor quit suddenly as I was headed to shore. Fortunately, it was an easy row back to Torrid. I spent the night pondering what the problem must be.

I settled on the old nemesis of my four-stroke engine: the carburator. I’ve had so many problems before that I had the foresight to e purchased a spare. Happily, that solved the problem, but in so doing I noticed that my fuel flow from the gas tank was very weak. After about an hour I was able to fix that problem as well.

As a boat mechanic I make a hell of a good retired Lawyer! What I have come to learn and appreciate that, as a solo sailor, you must come to solve new problems almost every day. By thinking a problem through, often overnight, I’ve come to appreciate the “Zen” of yacht repairs and maintenance. Through thought and reasoning one can often come up with the logical solution to a problem without having to call for help. As often as not, “help” is not available. You are truly on your own.

Tomorrow I expect to leave Port Vila on my way to Luganville on Espiritu Santo
Island. I have to decide whether I wish to stay overnight at Port Havannah harbor or continue on to Luganville. Havannah is a short day-trip whereas Luganville is probably a two day passage. We’ll see how things go tomorrow.

Port Vila is nice…………..but. It is definitely a tourist town for Aussies and Kiwis. It has the flavor of an exotic port of call, but it is definitely prepared for the numerous tourists. Usually, once a week, a cruise liner will come to Vila and the town will be swarmed with “day-trippers” who arrive at 0800 and must be back aboard by 1630.

I’ve made friends with several of the local ex-pat Aussies, Kiwis and Brits who have chosen to drop “off the radar” of modern life and are quite content to spend the remainder of their lives sipping on Tusker (the local beer) and swapping tall tales with their mates.

In sum, Port Vila is very nice if a bit expensive. It is not a bad place to consider weighing one’s final anchor.

6 SEPTEMBER 2010, 1330 HOURS

This morning I motored to Havannah Harbor (yes, that is the way it is spelled in Vanuatu). The purpose of the trip was to test out my repairs and give TORRID a ”shake down” before my 2 day passage to Luganville on Espiritu Santo Island.
My biggest worry was my Auto Pilot. “OTTO” kept giving me a “Low BATT” notice and would not perform. As I had used up a lot of my battery power in Vila and did not have my generator back yet I figured that once the batteries were recharged thru my engine use that the problem would be solved.

That APPEARS to have solved the problem as OTTO started working fine once the batteries were charged up beyond 85%.

I’m now anchored in a little bay North of Port Havannah. As it is extremely windy I do not plan to go ashore. The village is downwind of TORRID and should my outboard motor fail on me again, there is no way I could row against this wind.

My windlass is slipping again but I think it can be easily mended-----again!

Being alone on a boat in a foreign country and away from any semblance of the “civilized” World has given me the opportunity of considering and counting my blessings. I have been on my boat for well over a year and have sailed to some fascinating places and met many, many interesting people. When I think of those luxuries I gave up to undertake this trip, I still have no regrets. So what if I cannot go to the grocery store at 2:00 a.m. to buy some Mint Chocolate Chip ice cream? At least I’m not going to get killed by a drunk driver or mugged by some punks on crystal methamphetamine.

Last night I watched a Movie on DVD that was filmed in Brooklyn. What amazed me was how many millions and millions of people can stand to live their “anthill existence” lives in such an environment. Perhaps it is because they have never had a better experience or that they simply believe that they cannot possibly escape their hum-drum lives that they turn to drugs, crime and sex so frequently and needlessly. Escape, by one means or another is a unique human trait. I have taken my “escape” by means of sailing away to new and interesting places.

I am no angel. I must confess to using drugs (alcohol and marijuana) as well as sex as escape vehicles in my past. Crime was never a problem; I KNEW that I was too stupid to get away with anything, so I never committed a crime in my life. At least that’s my story and I’m sticking to it!

I heard an interesting anecdote supposedly coined by a native of the highly active volcano Island of Tanna in Vanuatu: “Yesterday is history, tomorrow is mystery and today is a gift.”

Those were very moving words indeed!

Tomorrow, if the weather improves I shall be off to Luganville. Let’s hope OTTO stays on the job.


7 SEPTEMBER 2010 1100 HOURS

I’ve decided to remain anchored for the day today as I needed to do some routine maintenance chores. I changed the oil, oil and fuel filters and checked out the jib and mainsails for proper installation and readiness for deployment. I also needed to fix my windlass before the wind picked up. I had noticed last evening that the chain gypsy was slipping---again.

The nice thing about boat repairs is that after you’ve done a certain chore it becomes easier and easier to do it again. The bad thing about boat repairs is that you usually have to do them again------and again.

Early this morning a ni-Vanuatu (native of Vanuatu) paddled his canoe out to my boat and gave me two huge papayas (called paw-paw) and two pamplemousse (French for grapefruit). I offered to give him some hooks and cigarettes which he politely declined. I finally got him to accept a “T” shirt. As he was a very huge fellow, I had to look for one of mine which would fit him. I may be an XL myself, but he was a XXL at least.

Tomorrow I’ll leave for Espiritu Santo. I’ll probably have to sail overnight but I want to get settled in to Luganville well before the 12th of September.


9 SEPTEMBER 2010, 1230 HOURS

The past few days have been interesting.

After departing Havannah Harbor for the two day trip north to Espiritu Santo my Auto Pilot decided to go on the blink again. This time I could not coax it back to life and wound up having to steer by hand for over eighteen hours!
Did I mention how much I dislike steering?
It also meant getting other things done extremely difficult.
The day was beautiful and the sailing WAS great. What’s the old saying: “The worst day of sailing is better than the best day of work”?
After dark was when things became VERY interesting. Periodically I’d have to leave the helm to consult my Chartplotter which is conveniently mounted down below at my navigation station. I’d jump down below, get the information I needed then scramble back topside in the hope that I would do so before Torrid would jibe.
Other than the auto pilot problem most of the trip was uneventful.
After steering for so long I finally became exhausted and found myself nodding off-at the wheel! Fortunately the wind and seas had died down and I decided to “Hove- to” and get some sleep. This meant that I had to bring my sails down-in the dark- and essentially let my boat drift while I slept. I was a good six miles from the nearest land and Torrid was drifting away from land before I finally nodded off.
I got a few hours of restless sleep and arose at 0430.
I decided to stop at Malua Bay on the island of Malekula, just south of Espiritu Santo. I’m going to try to fix auto, work on a couple of sticky winches and concentrate on getting some good rest tonight.
Malua Bay is quite pretty and offers a good anchorage and sandy bottom for good anchor holding.
I was met by some young boys in their outrigger canoes. They gave me some oranges and I gave them some fishhooks. One of the village elders also paddled out and I offered him some cigarettes. He politely declined. It dawned on me: He is a Seventh Day Adventist-----------and they abstain from everything, well almost everything.
I should be in Luganville by this time tomorrow. Hopefully I can rent a mooring ball at the Aore Beach Resort. Apparently it is THE place for yachties to hang out.
Oh well, back to work

10 SEPTEMBER 2010, 1230 HOURS

I had an uneventful l(that’s a good thing) crossing over to Espiritu Santo and Luganville.

I could not help but think of all the young men who came here during WWII. Luganville was a major staging area for military activities and preparations for the invasions of numerous Japanese held islands in the Pacific.
Had my uncle Phillip been here? He was killed on a carrier by a Kamikaze. What were his thoughts arriving in such a location. He, was so very, very far away from the small town in Minnesota where he, along with my father, Aunt Marge and Uncle Jesse were raised.
Were the thoughts of all of the military personnel, men and women, the same? Did they think they would never see their homes and loved ones again? My Uncle Phillip never did.
Recently an election for Prime Minister was held in Australia. I mention this because Australia, like the United States, is a Democracy whose citizens elect their choice of representatives. Unlike America, Australia has compulsory voting for all of its eligible citizens. If they fail to vote they are fined by the Government! How well would that go over in the USA?
When I think of all of the men and women who fought, died, were injured or simply gave their service to the USA to defend our freedom and way of life and Government I am proud to state that I have voted in every election since I turned 18. Conversely, I am ashamed to admit that most Americans do not bother to vote and some even brag about it!
A thirty-five percent turnout for a Presidential election is about the norm. This means that sixty-five percent of my fellow Americans did NOT vote. They need to be reminded of the old saying: “Bad politicians are elected by good citizens who don’t vote.
Rest in peace, Uncle Phillip. I cannot conjure sufficient words to thank you. The same is true of the countless others amongst you who served our nation.
Today, after my chores are done, I’ll go ashore to Luganville and let everyone know I’ve arrived safely. Afterward I’ll explore the town. I cannot help but wonder if I’ll be walking in the footsteps of my Uncle Phillip. I know that I’ll be walking in the footsteps of thousands like him.
Oh yes, “Otto” is still on the fritz.

11 SEPTEMBER 2010, 0930 HOURS

Yesterday I went ashore and explored Luganville. I have decided to withhold judgment until I’ve given the area a fair exploration. Suffice it to say that Luganville is not very pretty nor does it seem to have the tropical “allure” we expect in a South Pacific Island.
Again, I was taken back to WWII and wondered what this place must have been like with so many servicemen. It looks like the only “fun” thing for them to do would be to drink beer. Forget the chasing women part!
Today I have cleaned up Torrid and will dinghy over to the Coral Quays resort where I’ll be staying for several days with Dianne. She arrives tomorrow from Australia.
The island seems to have lots of interesting places to explore and I hope to take lots of photos and finally be able to update my blog with something besides my boring writing.
My BIG concern is whether I’ll be able to get “OTTO” repaired. I have a strong feeling that I’ll have to ship it back to the States to have it properly serviced. I learned, painfully, that I cannot sail without a reliable auto pilot. I have a strong suspicion that some damage was done when it got wet with fresh water in Fiji. I STILL want to talk with the guy in Hawaii whom I paid to install the system. His choice of placement of the auto pilot computer was not smart. I have learned a valuable lesson about trusting so-called “experts” to work on my boat.

14 SEPTEMBER 2010, 0700 HOURS

It has been an exciting past couple of days. Dianne arrived from Australia and we had a very pleasant sunset snack on the pier across from the resort. The weather was that perfect blend of warmth, cool breezes and tropical setting that we read about so often in travel guides to the South Pacific.
The following day we went to the Millennium Cave. It was touted as a “must do” in the Lonely Planet guide to Vanuatu. I can tell you that it was an extremely difficult and exhausting adventure. I would NOT do it again, but now that it is completed I am stoked that I did it. Dianne was a magnificent trooper! Not one word of complaint.
It was an extremely difficult trek. I had not felt so completely exhausted since I finished my last Marathon in 2001. I have aches and pains where I didn’t even know I had places!
I HIGHLY recommend the adventure, with profound reservations. You must be fit and able-bodied. If you are not, DO NOT ATEMPT THIS TREK! YOU WILL GET INTO SERIOUS TROUBLE.
The first part of the trek involves a long walk to a village where you meet your guide. Our guide was a nice young ni-van named Sala. He did the entire trek wearing flip-flops on his feet. I had a good pair of jogging shoes and Dianne wore reef walkers.
Upon leaving the village you cross a bamboo bridge. The bridge consists of very large and very long bamboo poles laid across a ravine and held in place with upright bamboo poles and tied together with bamboo strips.
The trail then continued up and down several hills and ravines which were very steep. Often we climbed down stairs made of long hardwood poles with hardwood rungs nailed on for hand and foot holds.
Finally, after about 1 ½ hours of climbing and descending we arrived at the Millennium Cave. It is a very long cave carver thru limestone by a little river. The trek thru the cave was over rocks and water. As it was pitch black we were issued flashlights (torches) to help find our way. During the cave walk I frequently had to place my hand on a rock or wall to maintain my balance. I soon learned that the soft slimy stuff that my fingers were squishing into was an accumulation of centuries of bat excrement! Yum! Nevertheless, one needed to maintain one’s balance and just have to accept the fact that your hands can be washed clean later.
The cave was approximately a mile long. That is only a guess. Suffice it to say, it was long.
Upon emerging from the cave we stopped for a quick lunch and some much needed rest.
We then had to walk, crawl, scoot and slither over under and past huge, slippery stones alongside the river. Several times we would come to a deep part of the river where we had to swim for hundreds of yards at a time. The water was cool and refreshing and we were held up by lifejackets.
At the end of each long swim we were met by yet another stretch of huge rocks which required us to scramble over. Several times the rocks were so steep and slippery that I was sure I would fall. Believe me, if you slip and fall, you WILL be seriously injured and on that trek you will be in SERIOUS TROUBLE. Dianne slipped once but fortunately Sala was there to help her and she only suffered a scratch on her knee.
Upon ending the river portion of the trek we were then obliged to scale an extremely steep and treacherous trail. If you fall on that trail you will probably die. It is straight down to the boulders below.
Next came I series of four sets of hardwood ladders which were very long and nearly vertical.
When the trail finally flattened out we had a long hike back to the second village. We stopped there to chat with the villagers and rest a little.
Finally, we hiked a short distance (only about 1 ½ mile) to the village where our driver was waiting to take us back to the hotel.
After a long, long hot shower I began to feel human again. The evening was spent quietly at the hotel reminiscing about the day’s adventure.
Having said all of the above, I’m proud to say that Dianne and I survived the Millennium Cave trek, and I DO mean survived!
Today is an easy day. I’ll check in with the Customs Office in Luganville and have my computer worked on so I can connect with the wireless internet.

VANUATU UPDATE

I have finally been able to get onto the internet.

I arrived safely in Luganville, Vanuatu a few days ago and I'll be adding pictures and my log in the next entry.

All, except my auto-pilot, is well

IDYLLIC MELE CASCADES

Today, 19 August, 2010, Dianne and I visited Mele Caccades, a totally beautiful and idyllic setting fairly close to Port Villa.

There were several places where you could wade in and enjoy the cool, clear, cool waters.

It was WELL worth visiting

ETON BEACH, VANUATU

Yesterday, 17 August, 2010 Dianne and I visited Eton Beach and Eton Blue Lagoon on Efate Island near Port Vila.

The beach is one of the prettiest beaches I've ever seen and I've seen a LOT of beaches. The beach was totally deserted.

A clear, fresh-water stream flows into the ocean right alongside the beach.

I am VERY pleasantly surprised that a developer has not turned the area into a resort.

Nearby was a fresh water lagoon with vivid blue water. I was surprised to see small fresh water crabs on the log I was sitting on.

The day was sunny and beautiful. Truly one of those "Perfect Days".

Today, 18 August brought rain to Port Vila. It gave Dianne the opportunity to complete her "Guilt gift" purchases for her numerous friends and relatives in Australia.

SAILOR'S HANDS

When I was in College, Law School and practicing Law for 33 years I was ashamed of my "soft" hands.

If you "click" on the photo you can see the cuts, scars and callouses of the hands of a sailor.

I don't think I'll have that "shame" for some time to come. I hope!

PORTRAIT OF A SAILOR AS A HAPPY MAN

Dianne recently took this photo of me.

What is remarkable, at least to me, about this photo, is the fact that I seem (and am) genuinely happy and content.

I have not felt this way in a long, long, long, VERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRY LONG time!

SNORKELING NEAR PORT VILA

Today I took Dianne snorkeling off Iririki Island near Port Vila.

Frankly, the snorkeling in Fiji is MUCH better. The corals and reef fish are not as colorful. Having said that, I did find several Clown Fish (aka "NEMO") colonies, some with very large specimens.

I taught Dianne how to follow seashell "trails" in the sand.
When certain seashells move about under the sand they wind up leaving a trail which leads directly to their location.

I was able to find several different species of shells, all alive, which I promptly returned to their homes in the sea after showing them to Dianne.

RAISING THE COUNTRY FLAG

After you lower the "Q" flag you must raise a "courtesy" flag of the country you are visiting.

This picture is of me raising the Republic of Vanuatu courtesy flag after I had been granted entrance to the country.

LOWERING THE Q FLAG

When you enter a new country on a yacht you arrive under quarantine regulations and must fly a yellow flag on your starboard spreader until officially cleared by Customs, Immigration and Quarantine.

Only after these procedures are completed may you lower the yellow (or "Q" flag) and raise the country flag of the country you are visiting.

Here IS a picture of me lowering the "Q" flag.

FOOD POISONING

Three nights ago I had dinner at a nearby restaurant.

I shared a platter of food with Dianne and we ate the same food. Except the mussels!

The following morning I really felt "crook" (Australian for "sick").

I stayed in bed all day and had frequent bathroom calls which I will not discuss the details except to say that I was able to see evidence of the offending item; the mussels!

Did I say earlier that the food in Vanuatu is 1000% better than Fiji? Well, the red meat is truly beautiful.

I used to really LOVE mussels. It may be some time before I try them again.

DEATH OF A FRIEND

Sadly, I have received news of the death of a friend, colleague and fellow sailor in Hawaii.

It was his dream to also sail the South Pacific and he had hoped to go to Tahiti next year.

As death must eventually come to us all, it has been my philosophy to attempt to fulfill my lifelong dream of sailing around the World before I, too, am gathered in by the "Grim Reaper".

CARPE DIEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OH, I WISH I HAD A HANDLEBAR MOUSTACHE!

With respect to Jimmy Buffet's desire to have a "pencil-thin moustache", I have let my beard grow back in full and have especially let my moustache grow out to "handlebar" length.

Someday, when I'm old and bald, I'll look back on this picture with fond memories.

DIANNE, HEIDI, SACHA AND ME AT WATERFRONT BAR

I met Heidi and Sacha, both from England and took them out sailing. They were both pretty cool kids.

The picture is us at dinner.

EARTHQUAKE DAY ON VANUATU

When the 7.5 earthquake struck Vanuatu Dianne and I were on nearby Iririki Island.

The photo of the swimming pool faces Port Vila. Moments later water was sloshing out of the pool.

The other photo shows people who have taken to the highest spot on the island in anticipation of a possible Tsunami.

Although a very small Tsunami was generated and struck Port Vila, it did no damage.

Whew!!!!!!!!!!!!

SUNSET PHOTO- PORT VILA

Here is a photo of a very nice sunset at Port Vila.

Although nice, Fiji's sunsets are far more spectacular.

BOOTS THE CAT

Here is a picture of "BOOTS" the cat ringing a bell to get his fish reward.
He hangs out at the War Horse saloon. Whenever he gets hungry he rears up on his hind legs and rings a ship's bell with his front paw. He is instantly rewarded with a piece of fish. It is really funny to watch!

He has become so popular that his picture is on a postage stamp in Vanuatu.

The War Horse Saloon is straight out of the old American West, complete with saddles for barstools. I colud almost swear it was the same as a saloon in Jackson Hole, Wyoming.

They also have the best pool table in the South Pacific and also serve a pretty good dish of nachos. Yum!!!!!!!!!

DIANNE

When I was in Fiji I met a very special lady from Australia.

We had a VERY nice, albeit short, time together in Fiji.

Fortunately, for me, she agreed to meet me in Vanuatu where we have been having a wonderful time.

The picture is of Dianne and myself at Hideaway Island.

LOG OF PASSAGE FROM FIJI TO VANUATU

I will try to download my log of the passage from Fiji to Vanuatu.






FIJI TO VANUATU LOG


11 July 2010- Departure day at last!
I awoke to torrential rain with lightning strikes all around and gale-force winds. I thought it best to wait another day.
This evening I bade farewell to my numerous Fijian friends and fellow sailors.
At First Landing, my home away from home, I visited with some friends and started to head back to my boat in anticipation of a busy day ahead. I was stopped by the manager and “told” to wait a little while.
At most resorts in Fiji a few guitarists will come out and sing a song of farewell to departing guests. I’ve seen it a hundred times!
In my case I had EVERYBODY come out to sing to me. Maids, cooks, security, waiters, waitresses, bartenders and numerous others came out. It was well over 30 people singing two Fijian farewell songs, to me! I had never seen this done before.
Tears welled in my eyes and I thought how privileged I must be to have so many Fijian friends who actually seemed to like me. Hugs all around from women and men were shared.
I thought how very lucky I have been to get to know these wonderful, peaceful and happy people.

12 July. My departure time was delayed by the compulsory viewing of the World Soccer Final presented live at 0630 Fiji time. It was a tremendous game and went into double overtime until Spain scored 1 goal and the Netherlands ran out of time. It was sad to see the Netherlands lose after putting up such a great game. In the end, someone has to win and I believed Spain richly deserved their win.
I went to the Marina office and paid for my extra day and was soon off to Lautoka.
I had a “merry old time” launching and preparing my dinghy for my trip ashore to check out of Lautoka waters.
Of course, my PROBLEM DU JOUR sprang up. After great difficulty launching my dinghy and loading everything up, my motor would not start. I hemmed and hawed and finally came up with a solution, but by that time I was just too pooped to pop and decided to sit quietly at anchor and do my “business” with customs and immigration in the morning.
It is now near dark and you can find my anchorage spot on Google Earth at South17degrees 13 minutes and 895 seconds and East 177 Degrees 26 minutes and 644 seconds.
The weather is fair but a poor wind for the direction I hope to travel tomorrow.

13 July, 2010
This entry may be short as I am REALLY pooped out!
At 0800 I presented myself to Customs and all went well. I am now cleared to sail to Savusavu, Fiji.

I loaded some last minute fruits, meats and vegetables. I met some nice kids from Denmark and loaned them my F5 maps of the Yasawa Islands and gave them my extra copy of The Lonely Planet Guide to Vanuatu and New Caledonia.
The anchor came up with a little grumbling and I left for Momi Bay.
As the wind was “Right on my nose”, meaning it was coming directly FROM the direction I wished to go, I wound up using my motor. Honestly, sometimes it is like driving a Winnebago. No potholes, just reefs!
I didn’t get to Momi until after dark. Thankfully it is one of the VERY FEW bays in Fiji with range lights. It was hairy and scary in the dark, but all ended well.
I’m going to put a movie in the Computer and no doubt “crash” half-way through it.

I really have to watch out for these nighttime anchoring. I now have even MORE gray hairs!

14 July 2010. Happy Bastille Day (French equivalent to the 4th of July).

It is hard to describe what did NOT go wrong today.
My anchor came up just fine.
As I was departing the main shipping channel a tremendous tidal surge was heading out to sea. Although my instruments were just fine it looked like waves breaking in shallow water. Actually, it was the current being up welled from the 150’ deep channel and “looking” like waves. I finally figured out the first PROBLEM DU JOUR and put out to sea.
My depth gauge decided to take a little holiday and stopped working. The second PROBLEM DU JOUR was to navigate without a depth gauge. That is NO fun, believe me. I tried a few tricks which did not work. Finally it started working again when I reached the 100’ line. I’ll probably have to reprogram it-----tomorrow!
Then my Automatic pilot went on holiday. This was the 3rd PROBLEM DU JOUR.
I have no idea what’s wrong, I have a couple of guesses, but if I can’t get it to work-properly, I’ll probably have to stop in Suva to have it fixed. As a solo sailor, I REALLY NEED my autopilot to work perfectly. Tomorrow I’ll troubleshoot the problem and go ahead and set up my wind-driven Auto-Pilot. That should be relatively easy.
With all of the stress, pulling, yanking and generally lurching about the boat, I have managed to strain my L-4 vertebra. For those of you who have known the pain this brings, I’m preaching to the choir. For those of you who don’t-----be happy, be very happy. I have aspirin to manage the pain, none of the fun stuff like Vicodin we get in the States. So, yanking my backwas PROBLEM DU JOUR #4.

I pulled in to the comfort and hospitality of Robinson Crusoe Resort. I’ve been here before and it is VERY yachtie friendly, at least 7 other yachts are here. We yachties are invited to use the facilities, watch the shows and even participate in the activities for free. We can buy lunch and dinner for $10.00 Fijian which is about US$ 5.50. The food is good and is buffet style----eat all you like. You can go back for seconds once everyone is fed.

I’m about to go ashore and thank the Fijian lads who helped guide me thru the channel.

Wish me luck w/ my repairs----tomorrow.

15 July 2010

The self-steering wind vane is repaired and ready for use. The only problem is the there has to be sufficient wind to make it work!
The dinghy is running like a champ.
My depth gauge seems to be recalibrated and working fine. I’ll not get proof until after I cross the 200’ and 400’ lines. We’ll see.

The REAL problem remains with my automatic pilot. I discovered the problem. The idiot who installed it (not me) put it in a location where it could “NEVER” get wet! Salt water is not the best of things to get into electronic gear. The system is TRYING to work but I’m sure repairs or replacement will be required in Suva.
Yesterday I went ashore to Robinson Crusoe Resort. I ran into several sailors I’d met in other locations. The hospitality was great and the FJ$ 10.00 dinner with ham, roast beef, baked potatoes and salad was quite a good deal.
I’ll be going back ashore in a couple hours.
In all, it has been a good day and I’ve solved most of my problems. The electric auto-helm is a MUST! This is especially more important for the solo sailor.
My back is a wee bit better but I’m taking the strongest over-the-counter stuff you can buy in Fiji.
I’m going to make an early start tomorrow and hope to make Suva by tomorrow night. I may have to anchor in some untested coves or harbors.

17/May 2010 was one of the longest days of my life! Fortunately it was not one of those bad days, just long.
I awoke at 7, made myself a big breakfast as I knew it was going to be a long day. I just didn’t know how long.
I departed at 9 and headed towards Suva. I thought I could anchor in the lagoon at Mbenga Island.
With the wind right smack dab “On the nose” I had to use the engine-for the next 25 hours with no sleep---------remember, my auto-helm is not working. Part of the reason I decided to push on to Suva was the strong possibility that I can find some to fix it there.
Today is Sunday, it’ll DEFINITELY be my day of rest.
I’ll launch my dinghy and have dinner at the Royal Suva Yacht Club and trade a few lies with other Yachties.
My eyes are crossing, so I have to sign off.

18/July 2010- Sunday
I had a very long nap yesterday.
I went ashore to the RSYC (Royal Suva Yacht Club) and met “German George”. Apparently they have so many Georges here that they’ve given them a nickname based upon their ethnicity. German George turns out to be the “Go to guy” when it comes to Auto-helms, he also thinks he can replace my Windlass gypsy, what a relief that would be. He’s coming to the boat tomorrow am.
Today I’ll replace the diesel fuel I used motoring from Lautoka and buy more gasoline for the outboard and electric generator. I’ll also fix the Monitor wind-driven self-steering system. Like Steve Martin, I’m just a “Wild and crazy guy.”
I hope to catch a bus into Suva. I need to buy a wristwatch, preferably a Casio. They are cheap and completely reliable and not the target of thieves!
Oh yes, my Interphase iScan V90 depth gauge decided to foul up……………again and of course when I needed it most. The “Forward Looking” function of the unit, which was why I bought it in the first place, NEVER has worked properly. If I cannot reprogram it and get it to work right I’ll buy and externally mounted depth gauge and send the old one back to Interphase. If they can’t fix it I’ll have an interesting article to send to “Noonsite”. It is a yachties website where we share all kinds of information, good, bad and otherwise.
Suva, as usual, is rainy!
18 July, 2010- Sunday
A day of miracles! First my Auto-Helm came back to life. After 2 days of drying out I tested it this morning and it worked! I went thru the initial programming (called Commissioning) and everything worked normally. Obviously, the water that splashed on the computer “brain” of the Auto-helm was fresh water.
My best “Crewmember” “Otto” is most welcome back aboard.
Then my depth gauge came back to a semblance of life. I went back thru the programming and everything seems to be working just fine.
I refilled my diesel tanks with my “Jerry Jugs”. I then refilled the jerry jugs ashore, so Torrid is fueled and ready to go.
I also fixed my wind vane steering system, so it is now good to go.
Tomorrow I may get lucky and have my windlass gypsy replaced. That may be asking too much!
Tomorrow I must check in with Suva Customs and explain why I stopped in Suva. After that I should be free to proceed to Savusavu.
I’ve concluded that having guns on a boat are much more trouble than they are worth. I’ll be looking into ways to get them shipped back to the USA or even sell them-----but that may become a real paperwork nightmare.
I must remember to convert all of my remaining Fiji currency to Australian or American before departing for Vanuatu. Apparently even the banks will not accept Fijian Currency.
I’m still stoked about “Otto”.

18 JULY 2010

I finished filling the fuel Jerry jugs. Not cheap.
“German “George came out to the boat to check on the gypsy, he is not optimistic.
On the upside, the remote switch for the windlass seems to only be a wiring problem on the 3-way switch, easily corrected.
19 July 20, 2010- MONDAY

I went to Suva customs to report my need to stop in Suva for repairs, no problem except I have to report daily. Tomorrow I’ll report back and also prepare the papers to continue on to Savusavu.
I went to COST US LESS, the Fijian equivalent to COSTCO in the States. At least I won’t starve!
I expect to depart Suva at first light on 7/21/10. It may be another long day. Perhaps I can stop at Makogai Island (home of the giant clams and location of the former leper colony. It is a well protected anchorage.

20 July, 2010- TUESDAY.

Off to customs this am and an optimistic search for a computer battery. Why can’t they make computer batteries standard size like those for cars? That would make toooooooooooo much sense!

22 JULY, 2010-THURSDAY 0230 HOURS

No, I did not forget Wednesday, I’ve simply been too busy until now, at 0230.
I departed Suva with little difficulty. Watching a P& O cruise ship sail into Suva harbor made me a little jealous. All that luxury, pampering and great food.
I FINALLY found some good wind and am nearing Savusavu. For you Google fans, look up Koro island.
Otto has been performing like a champ! Not so my wind vane. A small repair I can handle myself.
I’ll be making arrangements to depart Fiji on Monday. In the meantime I can catch up on the internet. I’ll also start my malaria meds. What fun!
Another VERRRRRRRRRRRRRRY long day. My muscles are stiff as a plank. Who could be happier?
ADDENDUM: After I wrote the above, things started flying off the shelves. It seems a 3 am storm decided to hit and it could not have been at a worse time. To maintain control of Torrid I had to bring in the jib. Thus is an easy job when you have two people doing the work. As a solo sailor, the chore becomes much more difficult especially in the dark.
At dawn I re launched the jib and headed to Savusavu. Although clearly marked on my GPS sites I could not find the channel marker.
Out of caution, I brought down the sail again, found the outer marker and safely tied up.
I visited Customs, Immigration and the police----who are holding my guns. I made plans to depart Fiji Tuesday am. All seems in order,
Tonight I plan to sleep the sleep of the dead! Tomorrow is filled with repairs. What is new about that?
I caught up on some e-mail.
Goodnight!

24 July, 2010 SATURDAY

I made my final repairs. I will take on fuel tomorrow. Tomorrow is Sunday and most things are closed in Savusavu on Sundays. Monday will be a busy final provisioning day as well as a “reminder” visit w/ Sgt Eroni about the return of my guns. What a pain in the butt guns are.

25 July 2010 SUNDAY

Did I say I made my “final repairs” yesterday? Boy, was I wrong.

I started at 0700 looking for “little” last minute chores. It is now 1500 hrs and I think I’m about done.

I rigged a new stanchion line. It is not the “real thing” but it’ll do until I have the time and resources for the right fix. I saw that my main halyard (that’s the line that lifts the mainsail) had gotten mucked up around my spreaders, not a good thing to bother with at sea. I “un mucked the halyard and all is well.
Next I noticed that the chain on the anchor windlass was really mucked up. I could not drop my anchor if I had to. Apparently, while the windlass “expert” in Suva was trying to repair my remote control for the windlass he used a car key to see if it was working at all. He did get the windlass to work but in so doing he wrapped the chain around the windlass so tight that I could not free the chain from the windlass without having to disconnect the anchor. Not being COMPLETELY stupid, I secured the anchor to the boat with a safety line. Next, I had to unscrew one of the anchor shackles to get some movement on the chain. After several grunts and groans I “un mucked” the chain from the windlass and reattached the shackle to the anchor. So far, so good!
Next I thought it would be wise toactually test the windlass. When I stepped on the foot switch NOTHING happened. My windlass was not working. I had visions of BEGGING an electrician to come to the boat tomorrow morning (the day before my planned departure).
I decided to “think thru” the problem and try to solve it myself. At first, naturally, I thought a fuse had been blown when the “expert” overloaded the system. Then it occurred to me that there are switch plates, like fuses, near the control switch for the windlass. Upon inspection, both switch plates had opened up as they are supposed to when overloaded. I reset the switches, went forward, crossed my fingers and stepped on one of the control buttons for my windlass. VOILA’. It worked----like a champ!
Next I went to the remote switch by the steering wheel and looked at it. I had advised the “expert” that the wiring looked wrong. The ground should have been in the middle and the positive and negative on either side of the ground. I tested the remote-----------nothing happened. I changed the ground to the middle and the positive connection where the ground had been. I tested the remote switch again. SUCCESS! It worked like a champ.

By that time it was nearing 3 pm and I was getting a wee bit “knackered” (English term for “tired”) and decided it was time to update the log.



In Savusavu the yachts are moored very near shore. Across from me was a church service. In Fiji, especially on Sundays, the “Spirit” must really come on to the preachers both male and female. The services usually take 3 or more hours! In my case I had a preacher who used the term “PRAISE GOD!” at least seven (7) thousand times during his sermon. This is NOT an exaggeration!
I can say this: If a prerequisite for entry to heaven is simply being a good person and living an honest and happy life, heaven will be filled with Fijian folks.
Be aware, you white, anglo-saxon protestants, “born-again” Christians and all of you Bible-thumping rednecks and Christians of ALL sects and denominations, when, and if, you get to heaven, be prepared, you will be outnumbered by a factor of AT LEAST a Thousand to One by Brown, Black and Yellow people who have led good lives and deserve entry to Heaven!
As I write this log entry it occurs to me that I have a little more than a day remaining before I must depart Fiji. Absent the illness of my former spouse, the minimal contact with my grandchildren and the apparent continuing illness of my “Born Again” daughter, it has been one of the finest years of my life.
Do not believe the nonsense you hear about the “Coups” in Fiji. I’ve NEVER had a problem in Fiji and trust the Fijian people completely. Come to Fiji, especially the Yasawa and Mamanuca Islands. It is a MUCH better deal than plastic Hawaii and much more inexpensive than Tahiti. I LOVE Tahiti but it just costs too, too, too much.
BULA
, Cap’n Mal

26 JULY 2O10- MONDAY

I finished my fueling and bringing aboard more fresh water. Tomorrow I depart Fiji.
Just to be on the “safe” side, I went out to the Police Post to give Sgt. Eroni a written reminder of our agreement to meet at 1000 hours tomorrow to get my weapons back. Surprise! Sgt. Eroni is in Suva for the next month. You’d think he would’ve told me that on Thursday!
Well, I gave the message to a Cpl who in turn told me someone else would deliver the guns. I asked for the name of the person who would make the delivery. He gave me his name. When I remarked about it he said yet ANOTHER person would make the delivery. I got that guy’s name.
I finally decided that I’d go to the police station myself tomorrow and pay a taxi to take the policeman, myself and my guns to the dock, take the policeman out to my boat, place the guns aboard,ferry the policeman ashore and pay for his taxi back to the police station. What a pain!
I set a sheet line for my mainsail as I will “undersail” Torrid at night.
Torrid and I are ready-----I hope!
It will be nice to be back on the big blue agin,
I’ve programmed both my chartplotter and my hand-held GPS for the crossing.
Tomorrow’s entry in the log should be interesting..
27 JULY 2010, TUESDAY

Everything went smoothly this, especially because Customs was involved. They were very helpful.
I left Savusavu around 1330, then I found out that my my jib sail in bad shape. Fortunately, I have a spare but I must wait for calm conditions. The ocean is VERY rough tonight. Oh well, livin’ the dream.
Another sleepless night!
ADDENDUM: 1644 HOURS.
A Lot has happened since last night. The wind was increasing speed, my jib was about to be torn to shreds. I decided that I’d be smart to bring in the jib before it got dark. Actually, it was one of my few wise decisions.
I motored thru the night. “Otto” frequently could not cope with the heavy wind and VERRRRRRRRRY rough seas.
I passed Makengai Island, a place George and I saw giant clams. I remembered how serene the harbor is and how it would make the perfect place to switch out my shredded jib for my “Old Reliable” jib which had brought George and I to Fiji.
I turned around and went to Makengai.
The marking of channels is CLEARLY of little importance to the Fijian government. Simply put, there ARE NO CHANNEL MARKERS!
I tried the first channel which had zero markers then went around the other side of the island where I did remember an entry marker buoy. It was not in place probably because it was destroy in Cyclone Tomas------5 months ago!
I finally went back to the entry I had waypoints on and crossed my fingers.
What’s the old expression, “I’d rather be lucky than good”? I entered the lagoon.
Wisely I decided to prepare my anchor. Smart move! During the heavy weather several items in the foc’sl (forecastle, an area in the very forward portion of the boat where items you’ll never use are stored. This is where the anchor chain is also stored. The chief job of the “junk” is to shift during heavy weather thereby using your anchor chain impossible until you have crawled up into the foc’sl and removed ALL of the long neglected items who seem to be secretly admonishing you for their neglect.
Well, I “un-mucked” that mess only to find that my secondary anchor had decided to have a “tryst” with my main anchor and they were still in their lover’s embrace when I leaned over the bow to get the answer to my “Now What!” exclamation.
Well, I uncoupled the unlikely pair and tied a securing line around the secondary anchor and really, really wished to tell it : “Bad anchor, sit and stay. Bad Anchor!”
Well, I finally arrived in Makengai harbor and have been a busy little bee.
First I took down the old shredded jib. I stuck it in a corner as the Fijians ashore might want to have it as a cover for their homes or as a place to sit during their frequent Kava drinking nights, which means EVERY night.
A fine young named “Amena” paddled over to hit me up for a handout. Instead, I invited him aboard and had him help me launch my replacement jib. Trust me, it is a big job for 2 men to tackle let alone one 64 year old “geezer” like myself. I’ve done it alone before, but with Amena’s help the job was much easier.
I invited him aboard and gave him some cigarettes and a lighter. He was very happy.
I hope the Fijians come out to my boat tonight to collect the sail. I’ve really nothing to use it for myself.
The weather seems to be improving, so I’ll re-chart my trip to Vanuatu based on my unexpected stay at Makengai Island.
I’ve taken photos to be added to my BLOG whenever!

30 JULY 2010 1800 HOURS

I left Makengai Island around 1100on 29 July and headed for sea.
An unmarked and unchartered reef almost got me. I knew it was in the area because George had spotted it before. It is right in the middle of the channel.

Once I got out to sea I went below and noticed a LOT of sea water in my galley. As I cleaned it up I noticed more and more water was coming in. Obviously I felt like I was rearranging the deck on the Titanic. I had to find the SOURCE of the water.
I listened and could hear water in my lazarette. Ther theat’s the sternmost part of a boat where a lot of infrequently needed items are stored. I had to move TONS of stuff just to get into the lazarette and spent the next 3 hours bailing it out and assuring myself that I did not have a leak.
the idiot who screwed up EVERYTHING he did on my boat/? Well, this genius installed a bilge pump in my Lazarette, put the control switch on my electric panel but neglected to ate water ach the hose to a portal to actually pump the water overboard! I REALLY want to have a few unkind words with him.
But before that, my depth gauge would not start up. I quickly diagnosed and corrected the problem-----a disconnected wire done by--------------guess who?
The weather was cold, rainy and very windy. I got a couple of catnaps.t
Otto worked very well----especially when I was bailing out down below.
The weather today was more of the same--------VERY rough and difficult seas.
Late this afternoon I left Fi

31 July 31, 2010, 1839 HOURS

It seems the only time I can write in the computer is when my gas charger is charging the boat batteries.
Today was the WORST day of my crossing! It was a day from Hell! And to make matters worse, it was ALL my fault.
To all you sailors out there who want to change direction, ALWAYS come about and do not gybe unless absolutely necessary!
I have gybed on numerous occasions before, never again.
My jib got so hopelessly tangled I had to heave to, stop, and try to unmuck the lines.
The weather was blowing holy Hell with huge Seas. My efforts were in vain, the jib is ruined. It was almost like losing an old friend. Now I get to buy a new jib in Vanuatu!
I raised the Main sail only 1/3 of the way up as the winds were Very strong and the Seas are very rough indeed.
Being a solo sailor is just plain nuts. After my circumnavigation I hope to get a gig on a major cruise line. The theme would be “If you have EVER dreamed about sailing Around the World- We have to talk. If you’ve dreamed of doing it solo- we REALLY HAVE TO TALK. My advice-sail around the World on the Queen Mary or similar. You start on time, arrive on time, have no hassles with Government “Dignitaries”, the shows are entertaining, the dancers fun to watch, the service is great and the food is wonderful.
To add insult to injury, I’m sure I have one of my lines tangled in my propeller. I guess I’ll really have to be a sailor now. Hopefully when I arrive in Port Vila I can hire a diver to clear the prop. I can do it myself but not in the open ocean unless I get a dead calm day.
Tonight I have a lot of “Sea Room” around me. I’d like to sleep up on deck, but it has been “Bloody” cold!
Again making progress to Vila.

1 August , 2010, SUNDAY


I am making good progress to Port Vila. The winds are coming down and the sea is not nearly as rough.
For my sailor friends in Hawaii, the past week has been as bad as any I’ve seen in the Molokai channel.
I put the main sail up part way. It is a difficult sail to manage and I need to make a few minor adjustments and will be able to run her up to the top. In the meantime, I’m still making 6-9 knots on a direct line to Port Vila.
A word of advice to the “would be” sailor, ask yourself: “Am I a problem solver capable in most instances of diagnosing and FIXING the problem yourself?” If the answer is “No” then rent boats at fun destinations. If the answer is “Yes” go on several extended passages of at least 7-10 days. Begin to learn what sailing is truly all about. If you still wish to circumnavigate, good luck, you’ll need it.
Last night I was alarmed to find that my steering wheel had fallen off! What a surprise that was. Fortunately, OTTO was on the job and I was in no real danger. I diagnosed the problem: It seems a plastic screw holds the wheel to a metal control bar. Plastic wears out faster than metal. When the plastic screw stopped doing its job properly, the wheel literally fell off. The cure, albeit temporary, (see my previous comments about improvisation). The permanent cure is to find the right size stainless steel or bronze nut with a good lock washer and the problem should never recur. Ha, ha, ha.
I’ve been sending “OK” messages to 2 of my friends in Hawaii. These position reports and messages are available on the net.
I was going to cut away the jib, but it has become such a tangled mess I’ll have to wait for a really calm day or do it at Port Vila, much to the amusement of my fellow yachties.
To make matters more fun, I think I have a line tangled on my propeller. I can do it myself but only on a dead calm day. Probably Ill have Yacht Help in Vila arrange for a diver to come out to my boat and cut the line free.
It is even getting warmer in the evenings. I may sleep topside tonight.

2 AUGUST-4 AUGUST 2010

I have not updated my log as I have been very busy and very tired.
I was able to bring down my tattered jib after a 3 hour effort of getting it untangled and finally cut down. The remaining part of my jib is about the size of a very large slice of pizza! Obviously I’ll have to order a replacement jib when I’m in Vanuatu.

4 AUGUST 2010

I arrived at Port Vila, Vanuatu at sunrise.
I was led to an anchorage spot by the Harbor Master and was quickly cleared by the quarantine authorities. Customs was a much different story. The promised to come out to my boat at 1330. At 1430 I called them explaining that perhaps I had missed their call while working topside. They explained that they had become “too busy” to come out to my boat and would I please bring my documents and weapons with me to their office.
Their office was clear across the harbor and I was in some danger of running out of gasoline on my way back to Torrid.
For some reason, unexplained, the Immigration office was closed for the day. I was afraid that I could not go ashore until I’d cleared Immigration. Fortunately, I was granted the right to go ashore as long as I promised to clear Immigration the following day.

I went ashore, still low on gasoline and finally found the dinghy dock and an outfit called Yacht World.

I must’ve spent over an hour in their cold shower. It felt GREAT to be clean again.

5 AUGUST 2010

Port Vila is very nice and the food is 1000% better than Fiji. The prices are higher, but the quality of the goods and services make it worthwhile.

15 AUGUST 2010

It took me a good week to recover from the stressors of the crossing from Fiji.

Two nights ago I got food poisoning-bad mussels- and spent the day in bed between bouts of unpleasant bodily functions. Today, after 24 hours of the food poisoning, I feel pretty good, just a little weak.

Port Vila is a major tourist destination for Australians and New Zealanders. It is quite pleasant.

I’ve started to contact people to assist with my repairs and to help order a new jib. Once done with those repairs I’ll set sail to explore more of Vanuatu.

SAILING WITH FRIENDS

Yesterday I took a couple of friends, Heidi and Sasha, from England, for a short sail outside Port Vila.

It reminded me of the rapairs I need to have done.

Otherwise, a beautiful sail.

EARTHQUAKE UPDATE AND HIDEAWAY ISLAND

The earthquake was 7.5 not 7.2
A Tsunami WAS generated and hit Port Vila, where Torrid is moored, but it was very, very small. Thank goodness.

Today I visited Hideaway Island. Their claim to fame is that they have the World's only underwater post office. I sent 3 postcards.

The diving was about 1/10 as good as Fiji. The "beach" at Hideaway was VERY rough coral rubble with no sand. Not high on my choices of places to revisit.

I hope to take some new friends sailing tomorrow.

Apparently I'll need to visit an internet cafe to upload some new photos. Will do ASAP.

EARTHQUAKE!!!!!!!!!!!

Yesterday afternoon I experienced a VERRRRRRRRRRRRY scary earthquake in Vanuatu.

It was reported as a 7.2 and the epicenter was a mere 25 miles away from Port Vila.

It was a real rock and roll show, believe me!

No major damage was done and NO TSUNAMI was generated. There would've been NO time to respond anyway.

All is well here and Torrid is fine.

Vanuatu is a major hot spot on the Pacific Rim of Fire.

WOW- WHAT A RIDE!

SAFE ARRIVAL IN VANUATU

I safely arrived at Port Vila, Vanuatu 48 hours ago.

The crossing was VERY ROUGH and this is the first I've been able to use the internet with a fully functioning brain! I was dead-dog tired but I've gotten some good rest and have started to move around again.

Torrid was battered by a 3 day storm and I managed to destroy my jib! I'll need to buy a new one.

The old jib was truly worn out, so after I left Savusavu I pulled into Makogai Island and gave the sail to the village. They could use the remaining good canvas to cover their roofs or use it as a sitting mat for their Kava drinking ceremonies.

A young Fijian helped me put up my old jib that I had used on my trip from Hawaii to Fiji. You may recall that that jib had been damaged before arriving in Fiji and repaired in Savusavu.

I hit a 3 day storm and my jib wound up completely shredded. All that remains is a piece about the size of a large slice of pizza! I used mu main sail for the rest of the trip.

My automatic pilot "Otto" did a very good job.

Port Vila is beautiful and has many more facilities than Fiji. The food has been just absolutely wonderful. The prices are a little higher than Fiji, but from what I've seen, so far, WELL worth it!

Torrid is battered but not broken. I'm starting the "easy" repairs and will work my way up to the more difficult ones as time and my stamina allow.

If you've EVER dreamed of sailing around the World, we have to talk. If you've dreamed of doing it solo, we REALLY HAVE TO TALK.

LOG OF TRIP TO VANUATU----SO FAR

I am leaving Fiji very soon and I'll try to download my log of the trip to Vanuatu --------so far.
No luck so far, gotta go.

Wish me luck.

Mal

FIRST LANDING FAREWELL

My departure was delayed a day as I awoke to torrential rain and gale-force winds. Better safe than sorry.

Last evening I went around to say goodbye to all my wonderful Fijian friends I had come to know and admire over the months.

I went to First Landing and said goodbye to everyone.

After a while I got up to leave and was asked to remain for a little while longer.

Usually when a guest or guests prepare to leave a trio of singers comes by to sing the traditional Fijian song of farewell. In my case over 20 people from cooks to waiters to bartenders to security staff ALL joined into the song just for me! It was VERY difficult to fight back the tears. The wonderful people honored me in a way I had never seen before.

If you want to travel to an exotic location and meet some of the sweetest, kindest people on the Planet, you can go far wrong by coming to Fiji.

It has been a year of joy and self-discovery. I'll not be surprised if I return,

NI SA MOCE, FIJI!

LEAVING VUDA-----------FINALLY

Tomorrow, Sunday July 11, 2010 I will FINALLY leave Vuda Marina and sail North to nearby Lautoka. There on Monday I will obtain government clearance to depart the Lautoka area and make my way back to Savusavu.

I don't plan to stay long in Savusavu. I will obtain permission to depart the Country of Fiji for my trip to The Republic of Vanuatu. As I will be out of Internet range, I'll keep a log of the trip and hopefully get some good photographs.

I am a bit sad to leave Fiji. The people are truly the most wonderful I've met----so far.

New adventures, experiences and challenges await!

CARPE DIEM!

FINAL SHOPPING VISIT TO LAUTOKA

    I am in Lautoka for my (hopefully) final shopping trip.

  Torrid is pretty much ready for the trip back to Savusavu.  

  I found out that my "Care package" from the States will arrive on Saturday, so I'll hang at Vuda for a few more days.

  I'm anxious to move on, but the "Care Package" has several items which will make my passage to Vanuatu far more comfortable.

  It will be with a VERY heavy heart that I depart Fiji and her wonderful people.

  Living in Fiji is all about compromise.  You must learn to do without the many, many conveniences of living in the USA.  As a trade-off, you learn to live without crime, traffic, neighbors and worrying about whatever is going on in the rest of the World.  I have not driven a car in over a year and REALLY do not miss it!

  I'll probably send an update from Savusavu, then not post another entry until I'm safely in Port Vila, Republic of Vanuatu. 

  

FINAL PREPARATIONS

I am about 1 week from finally leaving Vuda Marina.

I'll sail to the nearby port of Lautoka. In Fiji if you want to sail from one area to another you must physically present yourself to the customs authorities and get clearance (permission) to depart. When you arrive at the next port you must do the same thing i.e., check in with customs and immigration. If you fly, drive or take a ferry-no problem. If you are on a yacht you have to go thru this procedure. Failure to do so properly can get you in a LOT of trouble.

Yesterday my Single-sideband radio (short-wave radio) was taken into the shop for repairs. It seemed to not be putting out enough power.

Otherwise, I'm almost ready. Just need to take on a few more provisions before I finally make the hop to Vanuatu.

OF ORCHIDS AND PREPARATIONS

A couple of days ago I finally visited the Sleeping Giant orchid exhibition. It was started by actor Raymond Burr (Perry Mason/Ironside/Rear Window). Apparently he had a fondness for Fiji and privacy (he bought an island). The park was well maintained and I saw many, many varieties of orchids.

My refrigerator is finally working and I'm awaiting a part for my anchor windlass. After that, I'm pretty much ready to check out of Fiji and push on to Vanuatu. The crossing should take 5-7 days and my Port of entry should be Port Vila on Efate Island. Find that on Google earth.

Although I'm sad to depart Fiji, it is a circumnavigation after all!

Enjoy the picture of the orchid!

01 JUNE, 2010- PREPARATIONS

I'm starting preparations in earnest for departure to Vanuatu. As much as I like Fiji, it is time to move on.

My refrigerator is STILL not fixed, but I can wait no longer. Today I will change my jib and obtain a refill of my propane tanks and probably take on fuel.

The weather has been fine and getting very warm, a welcome relief from New Zealand.

This morning I awoke with tears in my eyes: I had another vivid dream about my son. A friend was showing me his favorite picture of his brother who had died. It made me think of my favorite picture of my son who also had died.

Whether we know it or not, we all have favorite memories of our loved ones. I wonder what their favorite memory of me is?

At the end of the day, if we have done more good than bad, then it has been a good day.

Have a good day!

BACK IN OL' FIJI AGAIN

After a verrrrrrrrrrrrrrry long wait at Auckland airport I finally was able to fly back to Fiji.

It is sooooo nice to be warm again!

Torrid had been closed for about 3 weeks and she really developed a lot of mold down below decks. Yuck!

I'm preparing for Vanuatu but still don't have a working refrigerator or wind generator. Apparently, I'm not the only one who is very dissatisfied with the work product of the guy I have.

All things being equal, if all I have to complain about is my refrigerator and wind generator, life is good!

The skin cancer is gone and there is very little evidence of the surgery. I'm still as good-looking as ever. THAT WAS A JOKE!!!!!!!

LEAVING NEW ZEALAND, NONE TOO SOON!

As I write this entry I am 12 hours away from arriving back in Fiji.

The weather in NZ is going downhill fast. It seems a series of three, yes three, Low Pressure areas are converging on NZ and the wind and rain are getting pretty bad. I don't think I'll complain about the heat of Fiji ever again.

As soon as possible I hope to leave Fiji for Vanuatu and New Caledonia. After that, who knows?

I now know why so many NZ "Yachties" go to Fiji this time of year; to escape the cold and wet of the NZ winter. BRRRRRRRRR!

AUCKLAND OBSERVATIONS

I'm about 30 hours away from leaving New Zealand and returning to Fiji. I thought it might be appropriate to make a few observations at this time.
New Zealand has come a long ways since I first visited in the late '70's. It is still a vibrant beautiful place and it is well worth visiting.
It used to be an exceptionally inexpensive place to visit. That has changed. I used to get a 2 for 1 exchange on my US Dollar. The prices used to be about 1/2 to 1/3 what you'd pay in the USA, so the country was very inexpensive to visit. I took my children here TWICE and treated them to everything! Sadly, that would be very expensive today.
Sadder still, it seems crime and racial unrest are weaving their sinister ways into the country. Bike gangs, like American bike gangs are well into the manufacture and sale of crystal methamphetamine, or, as we call it in the States: Speed. For some reason their nickname for the drug is "P".
School violence was unheard of before. No longer, I'm afraid. Also violence towards police officers and corrections personnel. Just the other day the first prison guard to be killed on duty by an inmate occurred.
The Maori are increasingly unhappy with the way the government is treating them. Some have formed gangs of their own and are becoming "territorial". I fear they are learning a lot of bad things from American criminals. A want-to-be gang member attacked a 4 year old boy the other day. The reason: the boy was wearing a red shirt! Apparently this is the color that identifies members of a rival gang. Give me a break! A 4 year old boy??????????
These, of course are the exceptions. New Zealand remains as one of my very favorite places in the World.
I suppose she has lost a bit of the innocence I saw so many years ago.
Perhaps I was just a Pollyanna!

WINTER HAS ARRIVED IN AUCKLAND

This is how I remembered Auckland: Cold and wet!

I awoke to find that the beautiful weather I'd been enjoying has blown away only to be replaced by cold, wind and rain.

I'll be glad to get back to Fiji.

All's well with the eyelid recovery. I guess I won't have to wear an eyepatch after all.

CLEAN BILL OF HEALTH

Yesterday, 18 May 2010 my stitches were removed and the pathology report was a clean bill of health. My skin cancer on my eyelid is finally gone. I would like to thank and recommend Dr. John De Waal. What a great guy!
On the other hand, I'd REALLY like to thank my first American doctor who diagnosed my beginning skin cancer as merely a "Stye" and not to worry about it. I'd also REALLY like to thank my second American doctor who almost correctly diagnosed my squamous cell carcinoma as a basal cell carcinoma (not as bad as squamous), but would not treat me until I paid him $10,000.00 up front!!!!!!!!!
Small wonder that the American health care system is so bad! Good luck to President Obama and my congratulations to him for having the courage to at least start an American health care program. Although it will not be perfect, Rome was not built in a day!
I head back to Fiji in a few days and finally prepare to go to Vanuatu. I'll be able to post some interesting pictures on my BLOG.